mmm'immB::^  -^ 


A  VERAGUAS  CABALLERO.  "IN  MANY  OF  THE  SMALL 
VILLAGES  THE  PEOPLE  ARE  OF  PURE  SPANISH 
BLOOD  AND  DRESS  AND  LIVE  AS  DID  THEIR  AN- 
CESTORS IN  THE  DAYS  OF  THE  CONQUERORS" 


TO  MY 

ESTEEMED  FRIEND 

DOCTOR  BELISARIO  PORRAS, 

PRESIDENT  OF  PANAMA, 

THIS  BOOK  IS 

RESPECTFULLY  Dti^ICATED 


PANAMA  PAST  AND  PRESEN.T 

INTRODUCTION 

• 
Strange  as  it  may  seem  the  Republic  of  Pan- 
ama is  one  of  the  least-known  countries  of  Latin 
America,  if  not  of  the  world,  despite  the  fact 
that  it  is  more  intimately  associated  with  the 
United  States  than  is  any  other  country.  And 
stranger  yet,  no  popular  book  has  ever  been 
written  which  describes  the  country,  its  fauna 
and  flora,  its  people  and  the  thousand  and  one 
interesting  features  of  this  little  Republic 
through  whose  territory  runs  our  wonderful 
Canal  and  over  some  five  hundred  square  miles 
of  which  the  United  States  rules  supreme. 
Thousands  of  tourists  annually  \nsit  Panama, 
thousands  of  strangers  pass  through  the  Canal 
each  month ;  thousands  of  American  citizens  are 
employed  and  live  on  the  Canal  Zone  and  yet, 
not  one  in  a  thousand,  realizes  that  there  is  any- 
thing of  interest  in  Panama  outside  the  Zone 
and  not  one  in  five  thousand  knows  anything 
about  the  Republic  which  we  helped  to  create 


INTRODUCTION 

and,  by  so  doing,  made  the  Canal  possible.  In- 
deed, the  majority  of  our  people  are  as  ignorant 
of  Panama  as  was  the  traveler  who,  after  a 
rough  sea  trip,  landed  at  Colon,  and  seeing  the 
railway  cars  marked  **P.  R.  R."  exclaimed: 
''What  a  fool  I  was  'to  come  by  ship  when  1 
could  have  gone  all  the  way  on  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Railroad!'* 

We  are  accustomed  to  think  of  Panama, — 
when  we  give  it  a  thought  at  all, — as  a  tiny, 
worthless  country  of  utterly  no  interest  and  no 
possibilities  and  it  comes  as  a  distinct  surprise 
to  find  that  Panama  has  an  area  of  over  32,000 
square  miles  or,  in  other  words,  is  four  times  as 
large  as  Belgium  or  twice  as  large  as  Vermont 
and  New  Hampshire  combined. 

And  when  we  learn  that  some  of  its  mountains 
rise  for  nearly  two  miles  above  the  sea;  that 
some  of  its  rivers  are  navigable  for  one  hun- 
dred miles  inland;  that  one  may  ride  for  days 
across  open,  level  prairie  land ;  that  much  of  its 
territory  has  never  been  explored  or  penetrated 
by  civilized  man  and  that  within  150  miles  from 
the  busy,  up-to-date  port  of  Colon  dwell 
primitive,  savage  Indians  who  permit  no  stran- 
gers within  their  borders,  we  begin  to  realize 
that  there  is  something  of  interest  in  Panama 


INTRODUCTION 

besides  the  Canal.  Moreover,  Panama  is  far 
from  being  the  worthless  bit  of  country  many 
assmne,  for  within  its  borders,  are  vast  forests 
of  valuable  cabinet  woods;  its  prairies  could 
support  countless  thousands  of  cattle;  its 
waters  teem  with  pearl  shells;  its  jungles  are 
filled  with  valuable  medicinal  plants;  its  min- 
eral resources  are  marvelous  and  its  agricul- 
tural possibilities  are  boundless. 

It  is  to  make  known  something  of  this  rich 
and  interesting  land  so  near  our  doors  that  this 
book  has  been  written  and  while,  in  a  book  of 
this  size,  space  forbids  a  detailed  description, 
or  even  a  mention,  of  every  feature  and  inter- 
esting fact  of  the  country,  yet  the  author  has 
tried  to  embody  all  the  more  important  and 
noteworthy  matters  which  are  of  general  inter- 
est. So  too,  in  a  Work  of  this  scope,  it  is  mani- 
festly impossible  to  give  a  complete  list  of  all 
the  timbers,  minerals  and  other  resources  of 
the  Republic;  but  it  is  believed  that  the  lists 
given  will  prove  of  great  value  and  interest  and 
will  come  as  a  distinct  surprise  to  many  readers. 
Although  much  has  been  written  in  regard  to 
the  Canal,  both  in  the  building  and  after  com- 
pletion, yet  much  of  the  material  published  has 
been  so  filled  with  statistics,  figures  and  techni- 


INTRODUCTION 

calities  that  the  romantic,  human  interest  of  the 
great  work  has  been  quite  submerged.  In  the 
present  volume  the  Canal  has  been  described 
from  the  layman 's  point  of  view  and  very  little 
space  has  been  devoted  to  the  discussion  of  en- 
gineering problems,  statistical  data  and  such 
matters,  although  the  more  important  figures  of 
expense,  maintenance,  etc.  have  been  included. 

To  many  people,  the  inhabitants  of  a  country, 
their  lives,  customs  and  habits  are  of  great  in- 
terest and  for  this  reason  considerable  space 
has  been  devoted  to  the  Panamanians,  as  well 
as  to  the  primitive  and  untamed  Indians  who 
still  dwell  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Canal. 

To  the  hunter  and  fisherman,  Panama  offers 
many  attractions  and  hence  the  descriptions 
and  lists  of  the  fauna  of  the  Republic  have  been 
made  rather  complete. 

As  a  winter  resort,  Panama  can  scarcely  be 
excelled  by  any  spot  in  the  tropics.  Here,  with- 
in a  week  of  New  York  and  with  steamers  arriv- 
ing and  departing  almost  as  regularly  as  mail 
trains,  is  a  wonderfully  interesting,  tropical 
country ;  a  land  redolent  of  old  Spain  and  of  the 
most  romantic  and  thrilling  deeds  of  the  bucca- 
neers. A  land  that  helped  make  the  history  of 
the  New  World  and  that  has  played  a  greater 


INTRODUCTION 

part  in  the  welding  of  North  and  South 
American  friendships  than  any  other  nation. 
A  country  largely  unknown  and  unexplored  yet 
marvelously  rich  and  varied.  A  spot  where 
one  may  cross  from  ocean  to  ocean  in  two 
hours;  where  one  may  breakfast  with  the 
sweeping  trade  wind  from  the  Caribbean  clash- 
ing the  palm  fronds  and  may  dine  \v4th  the  lim- 
itless Pacific  like  a  sheet  of  burnished  gold  in 
the  rays  of  the  setting  sun.  A  land  where  for 
half  the  year  the  climate  is  ideal  and  where 
one's  health  is  safer  than  in  New  York  or  any 
American  city  and,  withal,  a  land  where  one 
may  enjoy  all  the  strange  sights  and  scenes,  the 
life  and  wannth  of  the  tropics  and  yet  live  un- 
der Old  Glory  in  a  luxurious  American  hotel 
with  every  comfort  and  convenience  to  be  found 
in  one  of  our  great  hotels  at  home. 

The  author,  who  has  lived  for  several  years  in 
Panama,  has  traveled  throughout  the  length 
and  breadth  of  the  Republic,  while  engaged  in 
exploration  and  scientific  research  work  and  has 
penetrated  many  localities  hitherto  unknown  to 
white  men.  He  has  seen  Panama,  both  during 
the  days  of  the  ill-starred  French  attempt  to 
dig  the  Canal  and  under  its  present  conditions 
and  in  this  book  he  has  endeavored  to  describe 


INTRODUCTION 

the  country  as  lie  knows  it  and  without  preju- 
dice or  partiality.  If  the  work  helps  to  arouse  a 
greater  interest  in  Panama;  if  it  leads  to  a 
better  knowledge  and  understanding  of  the  Re- 
public and  its  people ;  if  it  results  in  a  greater 
friendliness  and  intimacy  between  our  people 
and  the  Panamanians  or  if  it  serves  merely  as 
pleasant  reading  the  purpose  of  the  book  will 
be  accomplished. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

PAQB 

INTRODUCTION vii 

CHAPTEB 

V  I    The  Bridge  of  the  "World 1 

Panama  one  of  least  known  countries.  Ignorance 
of  Panama.  Why  so  unprogressive  and  undeveloped. 
Benefits  of  Canal.  What  the  war  did  for  Panama. 
Great  resources  of  country.  Fauna  and  Flora.  Ad- 
vantages of  Panama  for  investments.  Size  of  Panama. 
Diversity  of  country.  People.  Travel  in  Panama. 
Lack  of  roads.     Lack  of  accommodations  in  interior. 

II     Panama  of  the  Past 14 

Brief  history  of  Panama.  Columbus  and  his  settle- 
ments. The  Golden  Castle.  Duchy  of  Veraguas. 
Nicuesa.  Enciso  and  Balboa.  Discovery  of  Pacific. 
Pedrarias  the  Cruel.  SufTerings  and  hardships.  Early 
settlements.  Founding  of  Old  Panama.  Explora- 
tions and  conquests.  Hostile  Indians.  First  ideas 
for  canal.  Extermination  of  Indians.  African  slaves. 
Sir  Francis  Drake.  Fortifications  of  Porto  Bello. 
Pirates'  attacks.  Survey  for  canal  by  Spain.  Pros- 
perity and  wealth.  Morgan's  attacks.  Loot  of  Pana- 
ma.    British  attempts  to  colonize. 

Ill    The  Dawn  of  a  New  Era 37 

Barren  years.  Dreams  of  liberty.  Freedom  pro- 
claimed. Union  with  Colombia.  Argonauts  of  '49. 
Panama  Railway.  The  French  Canal  Company.  Col- 
lapse of  French  scheme.  Independence  of  Panama. 
Treaty  with  United  States.  Why  Canal  became  a 
possibility.  Sanitation  by  Americans.  A  dream  ful- 
filled. 

<  IV    Panama  of  the  Present 53 

Panama  and  the  Canal  Zone.  Government.  Limits 
of  Zone.  Leased  lands.  Peculiarities  of  Panama. 
PointB  of  the  compass.     A  coafusing  country.     Law 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 


CHAPTER 


PAGIS 


and  order.  Cosmopolitan  people.  Panamanians. 
Character  of  people.  Progressive  element.  Peons 
and  their  shortcomings.  Need  of  roads.  Interior 
towns.     Fascinating  spots. 

V    The  Front  Door  to  the  Isthmus  .     .     69 

First  sight  of  Isthmus.  Arriving  at  Cristobal. 
Colon  and  Cristobal.  First  impressions.  Colon  in  the 
making.  A  childish  quarrel.  Colon  of  the  past.  Co- 
Ion  of  to-day.  Streets  and  street  scenes.  Shops  and 
life.  Shopping.  Buildings.  Santurce.  Cristobal. 
Sights  and  scenes  in  Cristobal.  Life  on  the  Zone.  A 
benificent  despotism. 

VI  Round  and  About  Colon 90 

Advantages  of  Atlantic  side.  Roads  about  Colon. 
Scenes  along  the  roads.  The  road  to  Gatun.  Road  to 
Fort  Randolph.  Gatun  and  the  Chagrea.  Fort  San 
Lorenzo.     Porto  Bello. 

-  VII    Crossing  the  Bridge  of  the  World  .     .  100 

Going  through  the  Canal.  Locking  a  ship  through 
Gatun.  The  Gatun  Dam.  Gatun  Lake.  A  trip  on 
Gatun  Lake.  The  drowned  forest  and  its  life.  Culebra 
Cut.  Through  Pedro  Miguel  locks.  Miraflores  Lake. 
Miraflores  Locks.  First  sight  of  Balboa.  From  At- 
lantic to  Pacific.  Crossing  the  Isthmus  by  train. 
Stations  en  route.  Glimpses  of  the  Canal.  The  Hya- 
cinth Patrol.  Balboa  and  Ancon.  Arrival  at  Panama. 
Across  the  continent  in  two  hours. 


4,VIII 


Panama  City  and  its  Sights  .....  115 

A  Spanish  city.  Modernized  Panama.  Avenida 
Central.  Santa  Ana  Plaza  and  its  church.  Las  Mer- 
cedes Church.  The  Plaza  Central.  Independence 
Park.  Noteworthy  buildings.  The  Cathedral.  The 
Lottery.  Sight  Seeing.  The  President's  Palace. 
Market.  Quaint  streets.  Old  churches.  Old  churches 
about  Plaza  Bolivar.  National  Theatre.  National 
Palace.  The  Bovedas.  Views  of  Panama.  The  Flat 
Arch.  The  Gold  Altar.  Old  water  front  and  city 
■walls.  The  Chorillo.  De  Lesseps  Park.  Seeing  Bal- 
boa and  Ancon.  Views  from  Quarry  Heights.  Fort 
Amador.  Fortified  Islands.  By  motor  to  Gamboa. 
Trips  to  Taboga  and  the  Pearl  Islands.  Pearls.  Trip 
to  Old  Panama.  Scenes  by  the  way.  Expositioa 
Grounds.    Bella  Vista.    Old  Panama  and  its  story. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

IHAPTEB  PAGE 

IX  TuROuan  Ver^vguas  the  Golden  .     .     .  140 

Out  of  the  beaten  track.  Discomforts  of  travel. 
Coastwise  steamers.  From  Panama  to  Agua  Dulce. 
Agua  Dulce.  Industries.  Plains  of  Code.  Nearby 
towns.  Tlie  road  to  Santiago.  Horses  and  outfits. 
Scenery  along  the  road.  Natives.  The  Star  of  the 
Plains.  Bird  life.  Road  to  San  Francisco  de  la  Mon- 
tafia.  Settlements  along  the  way.  Divisa  the  half 
way  point.  Country  beyond  Divisa.  Santiago.  Once 
a  metropolis.  A  country  of  gold.  Why  mines  were 
abandoned.  Mineral  wealth  of  Veraguas.  Lost  mines. 
Tieingal.  San  Francisco  de  la  MontaDa.  An  ancient 
church.  Mountain  towns.  The  Lake  of  Death.  In- 
terior towns.  Puerto  Mutis.  \Miere  time  has  stood 
still. 

X  Here  and  There  in  Chiriqui  ....   163 

The  sanitorium  of  Panama.  How  to  reach  Chiriqui. 
Steamer  to  Chiriqui.  Passing  Punta  Mala.  Coiba 
penal  colony.  Strange  sea  snakes.  Charming  islands, 
l^ahia  Honda.  An  ideal  spot.  Remedios  and  its  peo- 
ple. The  Sabaneros.  An  unknown  race.  A  strange 
custom.  Roads  from  Tole.  Pedregal.  The  Chiriqui 
Railway.  David.  Country  about  David.  From 
David  to  Boquete.  Resources  of  Chiriqui.  A  won- 
derful country.  Trees  and  plants.  The  Quetzal.  The 
guacas  or  Indian  graves.  Looting  the  graves.  A  for- 
gotten race.  Wild  Indians  of  Chiriqui.  The  province 
of  Bocas  del  Toro.  Almirante.  What  the  Fruit  Com- 
pany has  done.     Oil  companies. 

XI    Darien  the  Unknown 175 

The  least  known  part  of  Panama.  Journeying  to 
Darien.  From  Panama  to  Garachine.  Garachine  a 
forlorn  town.  Scenery  of  San  Miguel  Gulf.  La 
Palma.  A  disappointment.  People  of  Darien.  Forest 
riches  of  Darien.  Chipogana  and  El  Real.  Poverty 
stricken  towns.  Inhabitants  of  El  Real.  The  aborig- 
ines. Chokois  and  Kunas.  Exaggerated  tales.  Fal- 
lacies and  mistakes.  Who  the  San  Bias  are.  The  wild 
Kunas.  The  forbidden  district.  Life  and  habits  of 
the  Kunas.  Experiences  among  the  Kunas.  The 
Chokois.  A  trip  to  the  Chokoi  villages.  Up  the 
Tuira  Piivcr.  River  travel.  Life  and  scenery  along 
the  river.  Game.  Pinogana.  The  first  Indians. 
At  the   Chokoi  village.     Home  life  of  the   Chokois. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

CHAPTEE  PAGB 

Dances  and  customs.  Into  the  forbidden  district.  The 
Darien  mine.  Riches  of  Darien.  The  lost  city.  Up 
the  Chucunaque.  Yaviza.  Old  ruins.  Across  Darien 
to  the  Atlantic.     What  the  old  Dons  did. 

XII    Resources  of  Panama 200 

Agriculture.      Cattle.     Fisheries.     Horses.     Medic- 
inal plants.    Minerals.    Pearl  beds.    Timber.    Whales, 

Appendix — useful  facts  and  figures  .  217 
Chbonologt  of   Most   Impobtant   Histobical 

Events 217 

Peesidents  of  Panama 222 

Size  of  Panama 223 

Population   of  Panama 223 

Public    Institutions 224 

Monetaby  System  of  Panama 224 

J               Weights  and  Measubes 225 

Language 226 

ExpoBTS  and  Imports 226 

Manufactubes  and  Industbies 226 

Pbovinces  of  Panama  with  Population  etc  .  227 

Facts  and  Figuees  of  Panama  Canal  .      .      .  230 

The  Panama  Railway 235 

Panama  Railway  Steamship  Line  ....  236 

Useful    Information    Alphabetically 
Arranged 238 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

A  Veraguas  Caballcro.  "In  many  of  the  small  villages 
the  people  are  of  pure  Spanish  blood,  and  dress 
and  live  as  did  their  ancestors  in  the  days  of  the 
Conquerors" Frontispiece 

FACING 
PAQB 

Railway  station  and  firemen's  monument,  Panama 
City 80 

Seventh  Street,  Colon,  from  Strangers'  Club  ...     80 

Tlie  Drowned  Forest,  Gatun  Lake 104 

A  street  in  Panama  City 104 

Old  Panama,  Ruins  of  Fort  and  Sea-wall  ....  120 

Bongos   in   Panama  Harbor 120 

The  Ancient  Church  in  Santiago,  Veraguas   .      .      .   152 

Giant  ant-hills  on  the  plains,  Code 152 

A    Veraguas    cowboy 170 

La  Palma,  Darien 170 

Scene  on  the  Chucunaque  River,  Darien 17S 

A  street  in  El  Real,  Darien 178 

A  wild  Indian  of  Darien 182 

A  San  Bias  Indian 182 

Kima  Indian  women,  Darien 186 

Wild  Kunas  of  the  forbidden  district,  Darien  .      .      .  186 

A  big  tree,  Darien 190 

Chokoi   Indian  girl,   Darien 190 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAQE 

Running  rapids  on  the  Chucunaque  River,  Darien  .     .  194 

A  Chokoi  family  on  the  Tuira  River,  Darien  .      .     .  194 

Chokoi  Indians  ready  for  a  dance,  Darien  ....  198 

An  Indian  camp  in  Darien  with  household  god  in  door- 
way     198 


MAPS 

VAOING 
PAGE 

Panama ■.     .     .     .       8 

Boundary  line  between  Canal  Zone  and  the  Republic 

of  Panama 54 

Boundary  line  near  City  of  Panama 56 

Boundary  line  near  City  of  Colon 56 

Map  of  Panama  City 116 


PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 


PANAMA  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

CHAPTER  I 

THE  BRIDGE   OF   THE   WORLD 

Panama  one  of  the  least  known  countries.  Ignorance  of 
Panama.  Why  so  unprogressive  and  undeveloped.  Bene- 
fits of  Canal.  What  the  war  did  for  Panama.  Great  re- 
sources of  country.  Fauna  and  Flora.  Advantages  of 
Panama  for  investments.  Size  of  Panama.  Diversity  of 
country.  People.  Travel  in  Panama.  Lack  of  roads. 
Lack  of  accomodations  in  interior. 

Four  centuries  and  more  ago  a  party  of  ad- 
venturous Spaniards  beached  their  boats  upon 
the  coast  of  an  unknown  land  and  later,  march- 
ing inland,  came  forth,  after  untold  hardships, 
upon  the  shore  of  another  ocean. 

All  unwittingly  they  had  stumbled  upon  the 
narrow  strip  of  land  which  links  the  continents 
of  North  and  South  America  and  had  crossed 
the  Isthmus  of  Panama. 

Four  hundred  years  and  more  have  passed 
since  that  day  when  white  men  looked  for  the 
first  time  upon  the  Pacific ;  thousands  of  people 
of  all  nations  yearly  travel  from  ocean  to  ocean 

1 


2   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

by  huge  steamships  or  by  roaring  trains 
and  yet,  today,  the  world  knows  scarcely  more 
of  Panama  than  did  Balboa  and  his  companions. 
The  marvelous  feat  that  linked  the  oceans 
is  known  to  all  the  world ;  the  fame  of  the  great 
ditch  has  spread  to  the  uttermost  ends  of  the 
earth;  but,  aside  from  the  Canal,  few  people 
know  anything  about  the  Isthmus. 

To  the  average  man  Panama  is  synonomous 
with  the  Canal  and  the  Canal  is  Panama.    Ask 
the  next  man  you  meet  if  he  knows  anything 
about  Panama  and  he  will  likely  reply :  * '  Sure, 
that's  where  they  dug  the  Canal."    Nine  times 
out  of  ten  his  knowledge  will  begin  and  end 
there,  although  he  may  vouchsafe  the  informa- 
tion that  Panama  is  a  land  of  niggers  and  fever ; 
that  it's  a  little  strip  of  good-for-nothing  land 
a  few  miles  wide  and  that  its  sole  industry  is 
making  and  selling  Panama  hats.    Perchance 
he  may  be  one  of  those  rare  individuals  who 
have  stopped  for  a  short  time  on  the  Isthmus, 
or  who  have  passed  through  the  Canal  on  a 
ship,    or    he    may    be    one    of    Uncle    Sam's 
employees  on  the  Canal  Zone.    In  that  case  he 
will  perhaps  be  able  to  tell  you  that  the  climate 
of  Panama  is  healthful,  that  there  is  no  yellow 
fever,  that  the  death  rate  is  lower  than  in  most 


THE  BRIDGE  OF  THE  WORLD       3 

North  Amerioan  cities  and  that  Panama  hats 
are  not  made  in  Panama.  But  aside  from  this, 
and  some  information  about  cabarets,  the  shops 
and  other  attractions  of  Panama  City  and 
Colon,  and  some  technical  details  regarding 
the  Canal, — he  can  tell  you  nothing,  unless  he 
is  a  very  exceptional  person. 

And  this  ignorance  of  Panama  is  not  confined 
to  Americans  and  other  strangers,  but  is  shared 
almost  equally  by  the  average  Panamanian. 
The  native  may  know  something  about  his 
country, — or  rather  about  the  particular  district 
in  which  he  lives  or  was  raised  or  owns  prop- 
erty or  has  visited; — ^but  he  knows  little  and 
cares  less  about  the  fauna  and  flora,  the  geog- 
raphy, the  resources,  the  people  or  the  possi- 
bilities of  his  native  land. 

What,  it  may  be  asked,  is  the  reason  for  this 
ignorance  of  a  country  known  to  Europeans  for 
over  four  hundred  years  and  which  was  brought 
into  world-\vide  prominence  by  the  building  of 
the  Canal? 

The  reason  is  primarily,  that  from  the  ear- 
liest times  the  Isthmus  has  been  used  as  a  short 
cut  from  ocean  to  ocean,  that  all  developement 
and  progress  to  speak  of  have  been  confined  to 
the  ports  at  either  end  of  the  route  and  that  all 


4   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PEESENT 

interests  and  energies  have  been  devoted  to  the 
traflfic  across  the  Isthmus  and  to  living  off  this. 
The  ''Bridge  of  the  world"  Bolivar  called  it 
and  for  four  centuries  it  has  been  this  and  little 
more. 

First,  in  the  old  Spanish  days,  there  was  the 
famous  Gold  Road  which  led  from  Porto  Bello 
on  the  Caribbean  to  Old  Panama  on  the  Pacific. 
Over  this  roughly-paved  way  flowed  all  the 
traffic  from  Old  Spain  to  the  western  lands  of 
the  New  Worlds ;  over  it  passed  all  the  loot  from 
the  Incas;  all  the  vast  wealth  from  the  mines 
of  Peru,  Ecuador,  Bolivia,  Chile  and  western 
Mexico.  Across  the  Isthmus,  via  this  ancient 
way,  rode  the  armor-clad  soldiery,  the  proud 
Hidalogos,  the  sandaled  monks  and  friars  and 
the  hardy  Conquistadores  who  sailed  forth  from 
Spain  for  the  fabulously  rich  pickings  to  be  had 
in  the  lands  of  Incas  and  Aztec.  And  ever 
flowing  in  the  opposite  direction,  was  the  stream 
of  heavily-laden  mules,  of  fettered  slaves,  of 
returning  Dons,  carrrying  the  treasures  of  New 
Spain  to  fill  the  coffers  of  the  Spanish  Crown. 
Over  the  Gold  Road  too,  passed  Morgan  and  his 
ruffians,  red-handed  from  the  pillage  of  Old 
Panama,  and,  dragging  with  them,  the  captive 
women  and  girls  from  that  ill-fated  city.    In- 


THE  BRIDGE  OF  THE  WORLD        5 

deed,  it  was  Morgan's  raid  which  spelled  the 
doom  of  the  Gold  Road  for,  with  the  destruction 
of  Old  Panama  and  the  rebuilding  of  the  city  on 
its  present  site,  the  Gold  Road  soon  became  a 
thing  of  the  past. 

But  once  again  the  Isthmus  was  to  become  a 
golden  highway,  for  with  the  discovery  of  gold 
in  California  in  1849,  thousands  of  the  Argo- 
nauts took  the  Panama  route  and  crossed  the 
Isthmus  via  the  Chagres  River.  And  u^th  the 
rich  toll  culled  from  these  adventurers  the 
Panamanians  once  more  waxed  prosperous  and 
happy.  Then  came  the  railway  connecting 
Aspinwall  and  Panama  and  constant  traffic  was 
assured.  But  all  that  had  gone  before  was  as 
nothing  compared  to  the  boom  which  fell  to  the 
lot  of  Panama  when  the  French  made  their  ill- 
fated  attempt  to  connect  the  two  oceans  with  a 
canal.  Then,  after  a  few  years  of  semi- 
somnambulance,  the  Americans  stepped  in,  dug 
the  Canal  and  helped  Panama  to  become  an 
independent  Republic  with  its  millions  received 
for  the  zone  safely  invested  in  the  United  States. 

There  is  no  question  that  the  Canal  and  the 
advent  of  the  Americans  have  benefited 
Panama  beyond  all  calculation  in  certain  ways. 
The  cities  have  been  sanitized  and  transformed 


6   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

from  pest  holes  to  healthful,  modern  towns; 
m^ny  diseases  have  been  eliminated;  up-to-the- 
minute  improvements  have  been  introduced  and 
the  cities  of  Colon  and  Panama  have  prospered 
amazingly ;  but  in  other  ways  it  has  been  a  curse 
rather  than  a  blessing. 

The  country  at  large  has  not  been  benefited 
or  developed  appreciably,  for  the  attention  of 
the  world  has  been  so  centered  on  the  Canal  that 
the  fact  that  the  Zone  is  but  an  infinitesimal 
portion  of  the  Republic  has  been  quite  over- 
looked and  the  Panamanians  have  been  too 
busy  and  too  easily  satisfied  with  living  on  the 
overflow  of  the  Canal  traffic,  and  on  business 
directly  attributable  to  it,  to  bother  about  the 
rest  of  their  country  or  its  possibilities. 

Perhaps  the  most  beneficial  thing  that  ever 
happened  for  Panama  was  the  World  War  for, 
with  much  of  the  interoceanic  commerce  cut  off 
and  with  the  abnormal  prices  paid  for  many 
tropical  products,  the  Panamanians  suddenly 
discovered  that  they  possessed  resources  which 
could  be  converted  into  ready  cash.  Their 
mahogany  and  other  woods  went  into  aeroplane 
propellers,  gun  stocks  and  other  articles;  their 
fustic  served  to  dye  the  khaki  for  thousands  of 
our  soldiers'  uniforms;  their  manganese  went 


THE  BRIDGE  OF  THE  WORLD        7 

into  the  making  of  shells  and  armor  and  muni- 
tions and  motor  trucks;  their  coconut  shells 
provided  innumerable  gas  masks  with  the  re- 
quisite gi-ade  of  charcoal,  and  comitless  other 
products  found  their*  way  from  little-known 
Panama  to  the  battle-fields  of  Europe  and 
helped  to  win  the  war. 

But  all  this  was  of  short  duration  and  the 
outside  world  knew  little  or  nothing  of 
Panama's  aid  and  never  awoke  to  the  fact  that 
the  little  Republic  possessed  resources  well 
worthy  of  investigation.  Some,  however,  saw 
the  opportunities  for  investment  and  develop- 
ment in  Panama  and,  as  a  result,  the  country 
appears  to  be  destined  for  development  and 
prosperity  such  as  it  has  never  known,  for, 
despite  popular  ideas,  or  rather  lack  of  ideas,  to 
the  contrary,  Panama  possesses  resources, 
possibilities  and  natural  advantages  which  make 
it  potentially  one  of  the  richest  countries  in 
Latin  America. 

One  has  but  to  glance  at  the  map  to  appreciate 
the  geographical  and  physical  advantages  which 
are  Panama's.  Even  iwithout  the  Canal  its 
geographical  position  is  almost  ideal, — with  its 
ports  on  either  ocean  and  separated  by  only  fifty 
miles, — while,  with  the  Canal,  the  country  is  in 


8   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 


direct,  all-water  communication  with  every  part 
of  the  world. 

Moreover,  its  very  narrowness  is  a  tremen- 
dous advantage,  for  no  portion  of  the  Republic 
is  far  distant  from  tide-water  and  a  few  miles 
of  railway  would  give  an  outlet  from  any  local- 
ity to  the  sea.  Physically  and  geologically  it  is 
a  portion  of  South  America,  or  Central  Amer- 
ica,— whichever  you  prefer, — for  the  southern 
or  eastern  portion  has  a  typically  South  Amer- 
ican fauna  while  the  fauna  of  the  north  or  west 
is  as  thoroughly  Central  American,  the  two 
meeting  at  or  near  the  narrowest  part  of  the 
Isthmus  where  the  Canal  is  situated.  To  be 
sure,  there  is  no  distinct  line  between  these  two 
faunal  zones;  but  certain  species  are  never 
found  west  of  the  Canal  Zone  and  other  forms 
of  life  never  occur  to  the  east  of  it. 

And  when  we  realize  that  Panama  is  merely 
an  attenuated  extension  of  South  America  with 
the  same  Andean  chain  forming  its  Cordilleras, 
we  reahze  that,  after  all,  there  is  no  valid  reason 
why  the  country  should  not  possess  the  same  re- 
sources as  the  other  South  American  and 
Central  American  republics.  In  fact  it  does 
possess  all  these  and  many  more,  for  apparently, 
all    the    natural    wealth    of    the    neighboring 


THE  BRIDGE  OF  THE  WORLD        9 

countries  has  been  condensed  in  the  narrow  strip 
of  land  comprising  the  Republic  of  Panama  and 
northern  energy  and  capital  are  all  that  are  re- 
quired to  transform  the  isthmus  into  a  veritable 
wonderland  of  wealth  and  industry. 

A  very  potent  factor  in  preventing  the  invest- 
ment of  capital  in  Latin  American  countries  has 
been  the  unstable  condition  of  their  governments 
and  the  uncertainty  of  one  political  faction  up- 
holding concessions  and  keeping  promises 
granted  by  its  predecessors.  But  in  Panama 
such  an  objection  cannot  exist,  for  the  govern- 
ment is  as  stable  as  our  own,  the  elections  are 
guarded,  supervised  and  judged  by  United 
States  ofiicials;  we  guarantee  the  peace  and 
sovereignty  of  the  Republic;  there  can  be  no 
Panamanian  army  to  create  trouble;  an  Ameri- 
can fiscal  agent  audits  all  accounts  and  ex- 
penditures and  has  charge  of  its  finances,  and 
laws  and  concessions  can  be  relied  upon  as 
fully  as  our  own. 

Unfortunately  the  casual  visitor  to  Panama 
sees  but  very  little  of  the  country  and  obtains  a 
very  erroneous  idea  of  it,  for  his  experiences  are 
confined  to  the  two  largest  towTis  and  to  the 
Canal  Zone  which  is  the  poorest  and  least  inter- 
esting portion  of  the  entire  Republic.    He  lauds 


10  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

at  Cristobal  on  United  States  territory,  he  sees 
a  bit  of  Colon,  crosses  the  Isthmus  by  rail- 
way or  by  Canal  and  drives  about  Panama  City 
and  thinks  he  has  seen  Panama;  but  it  would 
be  just  as  sensible  for  a  visitor  to  our  country  to 
judge  the  United  States  by  a  visit  to  New  York 
and  Brooklyn.  In  order  to  know  anything  of 
the  real  Panama  one  must  take  trips  into  the 
interior  and  such  trips,  if  made  in  the  dry  sea- 
son when  tourists  usually  visit  Panama,  are  not 
nearly  as  uncomfortable  or  difficult  as  the 
natives  and  resident  Americans  would  have  us 
believe.  During  the  rainy  season,  however, 
such  trips  are  fraught  with  hardships  innumer- 
able and  should  never  be  undertaken  for 
pleasure. 

Although  so  small  on  the  maps,  yet  Panama 
is  really  a  vast  area  to  cover  and  months  of 
constant  travel  would  be  required  to  see  it  all. 
Moreover,  there  is  an  enormous  difference  be- 
tween the  various  sections  of  the  Republic,  and 
a  visit  to  the  Darien  district,  near  the  Colombian 
border,  will  afford  no  idea  of  the  country  in  the 
/"northern  districts  of  Veraguas  and  Chiriqui. 
'  In  the  former,  for  example,  all  traveling  is  done 
by  means  of  native  dugout  canoes  on  the  rivers 
whereas,  in  the  northern  provinces,  one  travels 


THE  BRIDGE  OF  THE  WORLD      11 

by  horseback  over  roads  unworthy  of  the  name. 
So  too,  the  people,  the  fauna,  the  flora  and  the 
topography   of   the   various   provinces    differ 
greatly.    In  one  section  we  will  find  the  inhab- 
itants mainly  of  mixed  Spanish  and  Indian 
blood,    in    another    they   may    be    nearly    all 
negroes,  in  another  they  will  be  of  Moorish 
descent,  while,  in  another,  they  will  be  of  pure 
Castillian  blood.    In  some  sections  the  country 
is   heavily   forested,   in   others   it   is    covered 
with  dense  jungles;  some  provinces  are  hilly, 
others  mountainous  and  still  others  are  broad 
and  level  prairies.    But  all  hav^  one  point  in 
conmaon  and  that  is  lack  of  good  roads  and 
accomodations  for  travelers.    One  must  carry 
practically  everything  on  one's  trips  and  one 
must  be  prepared  to  endure  innumerable  delays. 
Much  of  the  backwardness  of  the  Republic  is 
due  to  the  lack  of  proper  means   of  trans- 
portation for,  in  many  places,  the  roads  are 
merely  narrow,  winding,  jungle  trails  while  in 
others  the  so-called  cart  roads  are  in  fearful 
condition, — following  the  course  of  least  resist- 
ance,— winding  and  crooked,  filled  with  deep 
ruts,    holes    and    boulders    and    usually    **  re- 
paired," when  they  become  dangerous  by  dig- 
ging them  deeper  without  providing  drainage 


12   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

ditches  or  crowning.    Recently,  however,  the 
Government  has  given  contracts  for  many  miles 
of  new  automobile  roads  of  Macadam  and  con- 
crete and  within  a  few  years  good  roads  will 
connect  all  the  principal  towns.    Even  worse 
than  the  roads  are  the  local  coastwise  steamers^ 
or  launches  in  which  one  miust  travel  from  Pan- 
ama to  the  outlying  ports.    Most  of  these  are 
cattle  boats,  small,  old,  and  in  wretched  condi- 
tion, badly  handled  and  a  real  menace  to  life 
should  the  weather  become  rough;  but  the  Pa- 
cific is  usually  calm  and  a  special  Providence 
appears     to     watch     over     the     Panamanian 
mariners.    Accommodations  for  the  traveler  in 
the  interior  are  conspicuous  by  their  absence, 
although  there  are  hotels  of  a  sort  in  many  of 
the   larger  towns   and  there   is   an   excellent 
American  hotel  among  the  hills   of   Chiriqui 
province.     Many   of   these   country   hotels   or 
inns  are  far  more  comfortable  than  one  would 
judge    from    appearances    and    while    utterly 
lacking     in     all     modem     conveniences     and 
sanitation,  yet  they  are  fairly  clean  and  the 
meals  served  are  often  excellent.    But  despite 
the  discomforts  of  bad  roads,  worse  steamers 
and    inadequate    accommodations    a    journey 
through  the  interior  of  Panama  is  well  worth 


THE  BRIDGE  OF  THE  WORLD      13 

while  for  any  one  fond  of  beautiful  scenery, 
picturesque  people,  quaint  customs  and  out  of 
door  life  or  for  those  interested  in  obtaining  a 
true  idea  of  the  little  known  Republic. 


CHAPTER  II 

PANAMA   OF   THE   PAST 

Brief  history  of  Panama.  Columbus  and  his  settlements. 
The  Golden  Castle.  Duchy  of  Veraguas.  Nicuesa.  Enciso 
and  Balboa.  Discovery  of  Pacific.  Pedrarias  the  Cruel. 
Sufferings  and  hardslups.  Early  settlements.  Founding 
of  Old  Panama.  Explorations  and  conquests.  Hostile  In- 
dians, First  ideas  for  canal.  Extermination  of  Indians. 
African  slaves.  Sir  Francis  Drake.  Fortifications  of 
Porto  Bello.  Pirates'  attacks.  Survey  for  canal  by  Spain. 
Prosperity  and  wealth.  Morgan's  attacks.  Loot  of 
Panama.    British  attempts  to  colonize. 

It  was  on  his  fourth  and  last  voyage  that 
Columbus  first  sighted  the  shores  of  Panama 
and  in  May  1502  he  anchored  in  the  bay  which 
is  now  called  Almirante  in  his  honor.^  Here, 
and  about  the  borders  of  Chiriqui  lagoon,  the 
Spaniards  found  many  Indians  who  were 
adorned  with  numerous  golden  ornaments  which 
they  readily  traded  for  the  beads  and  gewgaws 
of  the  Europeans.  All  the  gold,  so  the  Indians 
said,  came  from  a  neighboring  region  known 

^  According  to  many  historians  Panama  was  discovered 
by  Bastidas  who  sailed  from  Spain  in  October  1501  and  is 
said  to  have  touched  at  the  Isthmus  several  months  before 
Columbus  arrived. 

14 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PAST  15 

as  **Veragua"  and,  learning  this,  Columbus  at 
once  set  sail  for  the  new  Eldorado. 

Cruising  along  the  coasts  towards  the  east 
the  little  fleet  arrived  at  a  beautiful  bay  whose 
shores  were  covered  with  the  fruit  trees  and 
gardens  of  an  Indian  to\vn  nestling  under  the 
palms.  So  charming  did  the  spot  appear  that 
Columbus  called  it  Porto  Bello  ^  and,  as  the 
natives  were  friendly,  the  Spaniards  remained 
here  for  several  days.  On  this  voyage  Colum- 
bus was  accompanied  by  his  brother,  Bartolome, 
and  by  his  son,  Fernando,  a  lad  of  13  years, 
and  we  can  readily  imagine  the  delight  with 
which  the  boy  and  his  companions  welcomed 
the  opportunity  to  romp  ashore  and  eat  the 
luscious  fruits  and  crisp  maize  cakes  of  the 
Indians. 

But  Christopher  was  not  searching  for  beauty 
spots  or  agricultural  paradises,  and  finding  he 
had  passed  the  golden  shores  of  Veragua,  he 
once  more  set  sail  and  after  a  stormy  passage 
arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Belen  River.  Here 
he  was  welcomed  by  the  chief  or  cazique,  Qui- 
ban,  who  was  virtually  ruler  of  all  the  tribes 
of  the  region. 

^  The  real  name  of  the  town  was  San  Felipe  de 
Portobelo,  the  Spanish  spelling  however  has  been  generally 
abandoned  in  favor  of  the  form  used. 


16   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PEESENT 

After  making  a  treaty  with  Quiban,  Colum- 
bus proceeded  to  establish  a  town  and  colony 
on  the  spot  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  Santa 
Maria  de  Belen.  This  move,  however,  did  not 
meet  with  the  approval  of  the  Indians  who 
prepared  to  make  war  upon  the  intruders. 
Hearing  of  this,  Don  Bartolome,  who  was  in 
command  of  the  settlement,  surprised  the  chief 
and  his  companions,  and  binding  them  hand 
and  foot,  cast  them  into  a  boat  to  be  taken 
down  the  river.  Notwithstanding  his  bonds, 
Quiban,  by  an  almost  superhuman  effort,  threw 
himself  into  the  stream  and  succeeded  in  gain- 
ing the  shore  in  safety.  Without  further  delay 
he  rallied  his  tribesmen  and  attacked  the 
Spaniards  so  fiercely  that  the  place  became 
untenable  and  the  Dons  were  compelled  to  aban- 
don the  settlement  and  the  coasts  of  Veragua 
in  April  1503. 

But  even  during  their  short  stay  the 
Spaniards  had  obtained  great  quantities  of 
gold  and  Columbus,  writing  to  the  King  of 
Spain,  said,  "I  have  seen  more  gold  in  a  day 
here  than  in  Espanola  in  one  year."  Indeed, 
so  great  was  the  value  of  the  precious  metal 
obtained  that  the  country  was  given  the  name 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PAST  17 

of  Castilla  de  Oro  or  Golden  Castle  while 
Veragua  was  made  a  dukedom  and  the  title 
Duke  of  Veraguas  was  conferred  upon  the 
grandson  of  Columbus,  a  title  which  his  descend- 
ants hold  to  this  day. 

Despite  the  wealth  of  the  newly  discovered 
land,  the  wars  between  Spain  and  Naples  pre- 
vented any  attention  being  given  to  the  ter- 
ritory for  several  years  or  until  1508  when, 
peace  having  been  restored,  King  Ferdinand 
Yll  commissioned  Diego  de  Nicuesa  to  set 
forth  and  conquer  the  Castilla  de  Oro  and 
establish  colonies. 

Nicuesa  set  sail  from  Santo  Domingo  and  with 
300  men  arrived  at  the  Isthmus  in  November 
1509.  Cruising  along  the  coast  from  Bocas  del 
Toro  to  Porto  Bello,  and  finding  the  Indians 
everywhere  hostile,  he  at  last  selected  a  fertile 
spot,  to  which  Columbus  had  given  the  name  of 
Bastimentos,  and  rechristening  it  Nombre  de 
Dios  he  constructed  a  strong  stockade. 

The  Indians,  however,  waged  a  constant 
guerilla  warfare  and  destroyed  crops  and  plan- 
tations, forcing  the  Spaniards  to  subsist  upon 
grass  and  the  few  animals  they  possessed,  so 
that  the  300  men  were  soon  reduced  to  less  than 


18  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

one  hundred,  including  the  sick  and  wounded, 
who  finally  abandoned  the  settlement  and  sailed 
eastward. 

In  the  meantime,  colonists  under  Ojeda  had 
founded  the  town  of  San  Sebastian  on  the 
eastern  shores  of  the  Gulf  of  Uraba,  and  having 
received  reenforcements  from  Santo  Domingo, 
transferred  themselves  to  the  western  shores 
of  the  gulf  in  territory  alloted  to  Nicuesa. 

It  was  with  these  new-comers,  brought  by 
Martin  Fernandez  de  Enciso,  that  Vasco  Nunez 
de  Balboa  arrived  on  the  Isthmus,  and  almost 
at  once  trouble  began  to  brew,  for  Balboa, — an 
unkhown  adventurer  who  reached  the  New 
World  by  stowing  away  in  an  empty  cask  on 
one  of  the  ships, — was  an  unprincipled,  am- 
bitious scoundrel  always  ready  to  foment  strife 
and  insurrection  for  his  own  ends.  Never- 
theless, he  was  a  born  leader  and  possessed  a 
personality  which  made  him  a  great  favorite 
with  the  rough  colonists  and  adventurers. 

Having  defeated  the  Cimaco  Indians  the 
Spaniards  captured  the  latter 's  village,  which 
contained  a  vast  amount  of  gold,  and  which 
they  renamed  Santa  Maria  la  Antigua  del 
Darien. 

Finding  himself  very  popular  with  the  men 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PAST  19 

Balboa  incited  a  revolu-tion,  refused  to  recog- 
nize the  authority  of  Enciso  and  declared  him- 
self Alcalde  with  the  idea  of  joining  Nicuesa. 
When  Nicuesa  arrived,  however,  it  was  learned 
that  he  proposed  to  take  possession  of  all  the 
booty  and,  as  a  result,  he  was  not  permitted 
to  land  and  on  March  1st,  1511  he  was  forced 
to  sea  in  a  miserable  ship  with  only  seventeen 
of  his  faithful  followers  and  was  never  heard 
from  again. 

Balboa  now  decided  to  make  himself  chief 
of  the  colonies,  and  having  obliged  Enciso  to 
return  to  Santo  Domingo,  he  confiscated  all 
Enciso 's  property  and  started  to  explore  the 
country,  slaughtering  the  Indians  and  looting 
their  villages  at  every  turn.  The  country  of 
the  chief  Careta  was  invaded  and  the  chief 
himself  was  forced  to  become  an  ally  through 
Balboa  seizing  and  marrying  his  favorite 
daughter.  Then,  ^vith  forces  agumented  by 
the  Indians,  the  Spaniards  entered  the  terri- 
tory of  Comagre  w^ho  received  the  Europeans 
in  a  friendly  manner. 

It  was  during  the  Spaniards'  quarrel  over 
the  division  of  gold  that  Panquiaco,  the  son 
of  the  chief,  conceived  the  brilliant  idea  of 
getting  the  unwelcome  visitors  off  his  bands 


20   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

by  spinning  a  most  alluring  yarn.  According 
to  his  tale  there  was  a  kingdom  to  the  south 
where  the  people  ate  and  drank  from  vessels 
of  solid  gold,  but,  he  added,  to  reach  this  mar- 
velously  rich  land,  which  was  on  the  shores  of 
another  sea,  at  least  1000  men  would  be  neces- 
sary in  order  to  vanquish  the  many  hostile 
tribes  to  be  encountered  on  the  way. 

Fired  by  this  story,  Balboa  dispatched 
messengers  to  Spain  begging  for  more  men  and 
supplies  to  fit  out  an  expedition;  but  too  im- 
patient to  await  a  reply,  and  knowing  that 
Enciso  would  doubtless  report  his  doings  to 
the  King,  he  resolved  to  start  at  once  and  on 
September  1st,  1513,  accompanied  by  only  190 
men  and  a  number  of  bloodhounds,  he  set  out  on 
his  historic  journey  across  the  Isthmus. 

Fortunately  for  the  Spaniards,  their  blood- 
hounds caused  a  panic  among  the  Indians  and, 
moreover,  Careta  supplied  nearly  1000  of  his 
braves  to  accompany  the  Dons.  Forcing  their 
way  through  country  inhabited  by  the  most 
savage  of  hostile  tribes,  undergoing  hardships 
and  privations  innumerable,  weighted  down 
with  armor  and  decimated  by  fever  and  the 
bites  of  poisonous  insects,  the  Spaniards 
pressed  on,  until,  ascending  the  last  range  of 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PAST  21 

hills,  Balboa,  who  had  gone  ahead,  saw  the 
sparkling  sea  stretching  to  the  horizon. 

Three  days  later  the  Spaniards  arrived  at 
the  shores  of  the  gulf,  the  first  man  to  reach 
the  water  being  Alonso  Martin,  who,  finding 
a  canoe  on  the  beach,  at  once  leaped  in  and 
paddled  from  shore  in  order  to  be  the  first 
white  man  to  navigate  the  new  ocean.  A  few 
moments  later,  Balboa  arrived  and,  having 
drunk  of  the  salt  water,  he  waded  into  the  gulf 
in  full  armor  and  took  possession  of  the  ocean 
in  the  names  of  the  King  and  QHieen  of  Spain 
and  christened  the  gulf  San  Miguel. 

History  fails  to  relate  what  was  said  or 
done  to  Panquiaco  when  the  Dons  failed  to 
find  the  rich  kingdom  of  his  story;  but  it  is 
probable  that  Panquiaco,  being  a  lad  of  intel- 
ligence and  discretion,  took  advantage  of  op- 
portunity and  placed  himself  safely  beyond 
reach  of  Balboa  while  the  Spaniard's  attention 
was  occupied  with  the  new-found  sea. 

But  even  though  the  riches  described  by  the 
chief's  son  were  not  found,  still  the  Dons  had 
little  cause  for  complaint,  for  they  found  the 
natives  using  pearls  as  decorations  on  their 
canoes  and  they  gathered  in  a  vast  amount  of 
loot   in   gold    and   pearls    from   the   helpless 


22  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Indians.  From  them  he  learned  that  the  pearls 
were  obtained  in  great  abundance  at  the  is- 
lands visible  in  the  distance  and  to  which  Bal- 
boa gave  the  name  of  Pearl  Islands.  Return- 
ing by  a  different  route,  the  Spaniards  arrived 
safely  in  Santa  Maria  del  Darien  on  January 
19th,  1514  with  booty  valued  at  more  than 
100,000  castellanos  of  gold. 

There  has  been  a  great  deal  of  discussion 
as  to  the  point  where  Balboa  crossed  the  isth- 
mus and  authorities  do  not  agree  as  to  the  peak 
from  which  he  first  looked  upon  the  Pacific. 
In  most  histories  it  is  stated  that  he  gazed  upon 
the  new-found  sea  from  Mount  Piri ;  but  I  have 
ascended  that  peak  and  know  that  it  is  im- 
possible to  see  the  ocean,  or  even  the  Gulf  of 
Miguel,  from  its  summit.  Moreover,  if  Balboa 
ascended  Mount  Piri  he  must  have  gone  far 
out  of  his  way  and,  as  he  was  accompanied  and 
guided  by  Indians  familiar  with  the  country, 
it  is  reasonable  to  assume  that  the  expedition 
followed  the  shortest  and  easiest  trails.  At 
the  present  time  the  Indians  travel  from  the 
site  of  Santa  Maria  del  Darien  to  the  Gulf  of 
San  Miguel  via  the  Chucunaque  or  Tuira  rivers, 
ascending  streams  flowing  into  the  Atlantic, 
crossing  the  low  divide  and  descending  the 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PAST  23 

rivers  emptying  into  the  Gulf  of  San  Miguel. 
If  this  were  the  route  followed  by  Balboa,  then 
the  mountain  from  which  he  first  looked  upon 
the  Pacific  was  one  of  the  peaks  of  the  Chu- 
cunaque  range,  a  supposition  borne  out  by  the 
fact  that  it  was  but  ^^ three  days  travel"  to  the 
coast. 

Still  further  evidence  in  support  of  this 
theory  lies  in  the  fact  that  ruins  of  ancient 
Spanish  forts  are  to  be  found  on  the  Chucuna- 
que  River  near  the  present  town  of  Yaviza 
and  that  for  many  years  after  Balboa's  first 
trip  the  Spaniards  followed  this  route  in  cross- 
ing the  Isthmus. 

But  to  return  to  Balboa  and  the  turbulent 
times  of  Panama's  past.  Soon  after  Balboa 
returned  to  Santa  Maria  he  dispatched  Pedro 
de  Arbolancha  to  Spain  laden  with  presents  of 
gold  and  pearls  for  the  Sovereigns  and  with 
a  request  that  Balboa  should  be  rewarded  by 
being  commissioned  commander  in  chief  of 
the  Castilla  de  Oro.  Arbolancha,  however, 
arrived  in  Spain  too  late,  for  Pedro  Arias  de 
Avila  had  already  been  appointed  governor  of 
the  country  and  had  left  with  1500  men  with 
instructions  to  proceed  against  Balboa  who  had 
been  denounced  by  Enciso. 


24  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

The  new  governor,  who  was  commonly 
known  as  Pedrarias  the  cruel,  reached  Darien 
in  June,  1514  and  although  he  was  received 
with  all  due  respect  and  hospitality  by  Balboa 
yet  the  discoverer  of  the  Pacific  was  promptly 
arrested  and  forced  to  pay  enormous  indemni- 
ties to  Enciso  and  other  persons.  Accompany- 
ing Pedrarias  were  several  priests  and  a 
Bishop,  as  well  as  the  governor's  wife  and 
several  other  women,  these  being  the  first 
clergymen  and  first  women  to  arrive  on  the 
Isthmus. 

Santa  Maria  was  then  a  settlement  of  over 
200  thatched  houses  and  was  raised  to  the 
dignity  of  a  city  and  espiscopal  see,  but  so 
little  attention  had  been  given  to  cultivating 
the  fertile  land  that  there  was  insufficient  food 
and,  as  a  result,  the  Spaniards  died  off  like 
rats  until  a  bare  700  remained. 

Homesick,  frightened  and  sick  the  people 
clamored  to  be  taken  back  to  Spain  or  Santo 
Domingo,  but  Pedrarias  was  obdurate  and 
ordered  them  to  scatter  and  to  establish 
colonies  among  the  friendly  Indians.  To  set 
an  example  he  dispatched  Juan  de  Ayora  and 
400  men  to  found  the  town  of  Santa  Cruz  on 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PAST  25 

the  shores  of  the  bay  and  to  establish  the  colony 
of  Los  Andes  in  the  mountains. 

Sensible  as  was  this  plan  it  came  to  naught 
owing  to  the  outrages  committed  by  Ayora 
which  caused  the  hitherto  friendly  Indians  to 
rise  and  drive  the  Dons  from  their  settlements. 
Ayora,  knowing  the  temper  of  peppery  old 
Pedrarias,  decided  that  discretion  was  the 
better  part  of  valor  and,  laden  with  booty  and 
accompanied  by  a  few  friends,  he  slipped  away 
and  eventually  arrived  safely  in  Spain. 

Learning  of  the  attack  on  Los  Andes,  the 
governor  sent  a  force  under  Captain  Antonio 
Telle  de  Guzman  to  reenforce  the  garrison, 
but  upon  his  arrival  he  found  it  merely  a  heap 
of  ashes  and  thereupon  decided  to  proceed  to 
the  Pacific  and  eventually  reached  a  small 
fishing  village  known  as  Panama.  Finding  that 
the  Pacific  slopes  were  far  richer  and  offered 
greater  advantages  than  the  Atlantic,  numer- 
ous expeditions  set  forth  from  Santa  Maria 
and  in  their  insatiable  thirst  for  gold  the  Dons 
explored  the  coast  as  far  as  the  present  prov- 
inces of  Code,  Los  Santos  and  Veraguas. 
Finally,  Pedrarias  himself  moved  bag  and 
baggage  to  Panama  where  he  met  an  expedi- 


26   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

tion  led  by  Espinosa  and  which  had  come  over- 
land. Joining  forces,  the  town  of  Panama  was 
founded  on  August  15th,  1519  and  Espinosa 
was  commissioned  to  explore  the  western 
coast.  On  this  expedition  he  made  his  way  as 
far  as  Chiriqui  and  founded  numbers  of  towns 
in  the  interior  of  Veraguas,  several  of  which 
still  exist,  such  as  Nata  founded  in  1520,  the 
oldest  inhabited  town  in  continental  America, 
Santiago  de  Veraguas  founded  in  1521  and  San 
Franciso  de  la  Montana  de  Veraguas  founded  in 
1522.  The  old  church  at  San  Francisco  still 
stands  and  is  in  daily  use  and  is  probably  the 
oldest  occupied  building  on  the  American  con- 
tinent. 

Espinosa  however,  did  not  have  plain  sailing 
in  Veraguas  by  any  means.  The  district  was 
a  stronghold  of  the  most  warlike  and  powerful 
Indians  on  the  Isthmus  and  under  their  chiefs, 
Urraca,  Musa  and  Bulba,  they  successfully  re- 
sisted the  repeated  attacks  of  the  Spaniards, 
despite  the  latter 's  artillery,  and,  on  one  occa- 
sion, held  the  forces  of  Pedrarias  himself  for 
an  entire  day  without  giving  way  a  foot.  For 
nine  years  Urraca  carried  on  his  war  against 
the  whites,  continually  .harassing  the  towns, 
and   maintaining   his    independence    and    the 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PAST  27 

freedom  of  his  people  until  his  death  in  1531. 
In  the  meantime,  Pedrarias  had  all  the  in- 
habitants, as  well  as  their  animals  and  food- 
stuffs, transferred  from  Santa  Maria  to 
Panama  and  by  an  ecclesiastical  decree  the 
espiscopal  see  was  also  transferred  to  the  new 
settlement.  Here  Pedrarias  ruled  as  gover- 
nor until  1526  and  during  his  administration 
the  colony  prospered  and  expeditions  left  for 
Nicaragua  which  was  subdued  and  where 
Francisco  Fernandez  de  Cordoba,  who  had  pro- 
claimed an  independent  government,  was  de- 
feated and  shot  by  Pedrarias'  orders.  It  was 
from  this  little  settlement  of  Panama  that 
Francisco  Pizarro  embarked  for  the  conquest 
of  Peru  and  for  many  years  the  Isthmus  be- 
came the  most  important  of  Spain's  colonies  in 
the  new  world. 

Owing  to  his  realization  of  its  importance  as 
a  bridge  of  the  world,  the  King  of  Spain  in  153-i 
dispatched  Pascual  de  Andagoya  to  make  a 
survey  with  the  idea  of  constructing  a  canal  to 
connect  the  two  oceans,  the  plan  being  to  use  the 
Chagres  as  far  as  Cruces  and  then  connect  with 
the  Rio  Grande.  Andagoya  reported  the 
scheme  as  practical,  but  thought  it  would  cost 
far  more  than  Spain  could  afford  and  the  plan 


28   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

was  abandoned.  What  a  tremendous  difference 
it  might  have  made  in  the  world's  history  if 
such  a  waterway  had  been  dug ! 

By  1539  the  conquest  of  the  Isthmus  was 
practically  complete  and  approximately  as  much 
land  was  under  the  Spaniard 's  rule  and  as  many 
towns  were  in  existence  as  at  the  present  time. 

Of  the  half  million  Indians  who  originally 
dwelt  within  the  boundaries  of  Castilla  de  Oro 
only  a  handful  remained,  for  those  not  killed  in 
warfare  had  been  made  slaves  and  had  been 
worked,  beaten  and  starved  to  death  in  the 
mines  which,  at  that  time,  were  the  richest  in 
the  world. 

In  order  to  secure  labor,  the  Spaniards  im- 
ported Moorish  and  negro  slaves  from  Africa, 
and  the  ill  treatment  of  these  brought  a  just 
retribution  on  the  Dons,  for  the  slaves,  running 
away  or  revolting,  took  to  the  bush  and  aided 
the  French  and  British  pirates  and  buccaneers 
who  cruised  off  the  coasts  and  frequently 
landed  to  attack  the  Spanish  settlements. 

Indeed,  had  it  not  been  for  the  help  of  these 
Cimmaroon  negroes  Drake  never  could  have 
taken  Nombre  de  Dios  when  in  1595  ^  he  landed 

^  There  seems  to  be  some  confusion  regarding  this  date. 
According  to  some  histories  Nombre  de  Dios  was  abandoned 
in  favor  of  Porto  Bello  in  1584  but  as  records  in  the 
Archives  of  Panama  state  that  Porto  Bello  was  not  estab- 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PAST  29 

on  the  Atlantic  coast  with  750  men.  Having 
beaten  the  Spaniards  at  Nombre  de  Dios,  Drake 
and  his  men  accompanied  by  many  Cimmaroons 
marched  inland  to  attack  Panama,  but  owing 
to  the  carelessness  of  one  of  his  sailors,  who 
incautiously  showed  himself  while  in  ambush, 
the  British  were  defeated  in  the  mountains  of 
Capira  and  were  compelled  to  beat  a  hasty  re- 
treat. It  was  from  wounds  received  in  this 
battle  that  Drake  died  soon  after  reaching  his 
ship,  his  body  being  buried  at  sea  in  the  Bay  of 
Porto  Bello. 

So  rich  had  Panama  now  become  that  the 
cupidity  of  the  pirates  was  aroused  and  their 
attacks  became  so  frequent  and  so  bold  that  it 
was  decided  to  fortify  Porto  Bello  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Chagres  and  work  on  these  fortifi- 
cations was  commenced  in  1597.  They  were 
completed  in  1G02  and  were  considered  impreg- 
nable, but  the  very  year  that  the  forts 
were  finished  William  Parker  with  200  pirates 
captured  Porto  Bello,  burned  a  part  of  the 
town  and  carried  off  an  immense  amount  of 
booty.  Soon  after  this,  and  during  the  regime 
of  Diego  Fernandez  de  Velasco  as  governor,  the 

lislied  as  a  city  until  1597  and  as  Drake's  memoirs  give  the 
date  of  his  exploit  as  1595  I  consider  that  correct. 


30   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

subject  of  a  canal  across  the  Isthmus  again 
came  up  and  in  1616  King  Philip  III  ordered 
a  survey  of  the  Darien  country  to  see  if  it  were 
possible  to  connect  the  two  oceans  by  way  of 
the  Tuira  River  and  the  Gulf  of  San  Miguel. 

Hardly  had  the  matter  been  broached  how- 
ever, when  the  Dons  realized  that  such  a  water- 
way would  aid  the  pirates  and  other  enemies 
in    attacks    on    Panama    and   the    work    was 
promptly  abandoned.    For  a  number  of  years 
thereafter  Panama  prospered;  vast  amounts 
of  gold  flowed  from  the  mines  of  Veraguas  and 
Darien  to  the  coffers  of  Spain;  wealth  incal- 
culable came  from  Peru,  from  Mexico  and  from 
the  rich  cities  of  western  South  America  and 
was  transported  across  the  Isthmus  via  the 
famous  Gold  Road;  great  fleets  of  plate  ships 
and  of  galleons  rode  at  anchor  in  the  ports  of 
Panama,   of  Nombre   de   Dios   and  of  Porto 
Bello;  the  prairies  furnished  grazing  land  for 
thousands  of  head  of  cattle  and,  throughout 
the    world,    Panama    became   famed   as    that 
''Goode  and  Staytlye  City,"  the  richest  colony 
of  New  Spain  and  the  key  to  all  the  untold 
riches  of  the  western  coasts  of  South  and  North 
America. 
Then,  in  June,  1668, — like  a  bolt  from  a  clear 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PAST  31 

sky — 'Sir  Henry  Morgan  swept  do\vn  on  Porto 
Bello,  defeated  the  Spaniards,  captured  the 
town  and  sailed  away  with  booty  to  the  value 
of  a  quarter  of  a  million  dollars. 

With  his  departure,  the  Dons  once  more 
breathed  freely,  but  not  for  long,  for,  two  years 
later, — in  December  1670, — Morgan's  squadron 
appeared  off  the  mouth  of  the  Chagres  and 
with  2500  men  the  famous  buccaneer  took  the 
castle  of  San  Lorenzo  by  strategy  and  con- 
tinued up  the  Chagres  bent  on  sacking  Panama. 

Landing  at  Las  Cruces,  Morgan  and  his  free- 
booters marched  overland,  but  word  of  their 
approach  had  already  been  sent  to  Panama 
and  when  they  arrived  in  front  of  the  city  they 
found  1500  Spaniards  awaiting  them. 

Knowing  the  ferocity  and  fighting  abilities 
of  the  pirates,  the  Spaniards  had  gjathered 
together  a  great  herd  of  wild  bulls  which  they 
drove  towards  the  oncoming  buccaneers,  but 
the  British  scattered,  and  throwing  themselves 
on  the  ground  hamstrung  the  cattle  as  they 
passed  and  then  rushed  on  the  Spaniards. 

With  their  morale  shaken  by  tales  of  the 
pirates'  reckless  daring  and  cruelty,  and  greatly 
outnumbered,  the  Spaniards  gave  way  after  a 
short  but  bloody  engagement  and  the  victorious 


32   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

freebooters  swarmed  into  the  city.  However, 
the  warning  given  to  the  city  and  the  delay 
caused  by  the  battle,  had  enabled  the  residents 
to  carry  the  greater  portion  of  their  riches,  as 
well  as  most  of  the  plate  and  golden  fittings  of 
the  churches,  aboard  ships  in  the  harbor  which 
then  put  to  sea. 

Furious  at  this,  Morgan  inflicted  every 
imaginable  torture  and  reprisal  upon  the 
Spaniards  and  when,  that  night,  the  town  was 
burned,  his  rage  knew  no  bounds,  for  he  had 
given  strict  orders  that  the  city  should  be 
spared,  (thinking  no  doubt  to  return  at  some 
future  date)  and,  as  no  one  knew  whether  the 
conflagration  had  been  started  by  some  patri- 
otic Spaniard  or  by  some  roistering,  drunken 
pirate,  Morgan  spared  neither  friend  nor  foe 
until  his  terrific  temper  had  worn  itself  out. 
Then,  as  there  was  nothing  else  to  be  gained 
by  remaining,  he  left  the  ruins  of  Panama  on 
Feb.  24th  carrying  with  him  194  muleloads  of 
gold,  silver  and  precious  stones,  as  well  as 
scores  of  women  and  girls,  a  number  of  priests 
and  many  nuns. 

So  much  has  been  written  of  Morgan  that  one 
has  the  impression  that  he  ravaged  the  Spanish 
Main  for  years  and  was  a  most  bloodthirsty  old 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PAST  33 

ruffian.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  Morgan's  entire 
career  as  a  pirate  lasted  but  a  scant  five  years 
and  all  his  most  famous  deeds,  or  misdeeds, 
were  committed  within  a  period  of  three  years. 
Li  many  ways  too,  Morgan  was  a  most  exem- 
plary pirate  and  was  not  nearly  as  cruel  or 
bloodthirsty  as  many  less  notorious  free- 
booters. His  fame  was  gained  largely  through 
the  sheer  bravado  of  his  deeds,  the  fact  that  he 
was  made  Lieutenant  Governor  of  Jamaica  and 
was  the  only  pirate  on  record  to  be  knighted. 

Like  nearly  all  the  pirate  leaders  he  was  a 
very  forceful  character  with  a  vast  amount  of 
personal  magnetism  and  was  a  born  leader  of 
men,  and  even  his  worst  enemies  could  never 
accuse  him  of  cowardice.  But,  on  the  other 
hand,  he  had  a  strangely  complex  and  para- 
doxical character. 

It  is  said  of  him,  that,  while  Lieuten,ant 
Governor  of  Jamaica,  he  punished  those  accused 
of  piracy  with  the  utmos^  rigor  and  hung  them 
'v^'ith  scarce  a  semblance  of  trial,  but  on  the 
other  hand,  he  aided  and  abetted  his  brother 
and  several  friends  in  fitting  out  and  profiting 
by  piratical  ventures.  He  regularly  attended 
church  and  it  is  said  that  on  more  than  one 
occasion   he    shot   down   men   for   disturbing 


34  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

church  services  and  that  divine  services  were 
always  held  on  his  ships  whenever  a  priest  or 
clergyman  happened  to  fall  into  his  clutches. 
History  fails  to  relate  what  he  did  with  the 
priest  or  minister  after  services  were  over,  but 
he  no  doubt  made  them  walk  the  plank  or  dis- 
posed of  them  otherwise  with  equal  dispatch, 
for  that  was  ''Harry  Morgan's  way"  as  he  was 
fond  of  saying.  So  too,  he  was  utterly  without 
principle  and  would  betray  his  own  men  and 
after  the  sack  of  Panama  he  made  away  with 
the  bulk  of  the  loot  and  left  his  men  to  shift  for 
themselves  as  best  they  might. 

It  was  soon  after  the  looting  of  Panama  also 
that  he  exhibited  a  most  striking  example  of 
Ms  Quixotic  nature.  According  to  the  story, 
one  of  the  captured  women  had  a  lover  who 
offered  to  ransom  her,  and  the  sum  offered 
being  very  large,  Morgan  halted  his  men  and 
awaited  the  ransom.  By  some  trickery,  how- 
ever, the  messenger  was  waylaid  and  the 
ransom  was  brought  by  the  friend  of  a  captive 
priest  with  a  statement  that  it  had  been  sent 
by  the  Bishop  to  purchase  the  friar's  freedom. 
Accordingly,  the  priest  was  released,  but  ere 
he  had  reached  safety,  the  real  messenger 
arrived    with    his    tale,    whereupon    Morgan 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PAST  35 

promptly  sent  men  to  capture  the  priest,  hung 
him  to  the  nearest  tree,  released  the  woman, 
restored  her  to  her  lover  accompained  by  an 
armed  guard  and,  to  still  further  prove  his 
gallantry,  he  returned  the  ransom  as  a  wedding 
gift! 

But  of  Morgan  ^s  personality  or  pleasantries 
the  Spaniards  knew  little  and  cared  less.  To 
them,  he  was  a  fiend  incarnate,  an  ever-present 
menace  and,  realizing  the  defenseless  position 
of  their  ruined  city,  they  moved  further  north 
and  founded  the  present  city  of  Panama  on 
January  1st,  1673. 

Whether  it  was  because  of  the  new  city's 
strong  defenses  and  strategic  position,  or 
whether  it  was  owing  to  the  fact  that  there  was 
little  wealth  to  attract  them,  the  pirates  left 
Panama  in  peace  thereafter  and  confined  their 
operations  to  the  Atlantic  seaboard. 

But  there  were  others  than  the  buccaneers 
who  caused  the  Dons  many  a  sleepless  night 
and  many  a  hard  fought  and  bloody  battle  in 
the  years  to  follow.  Thus,  on  Oct.  30th,  1698, 
one,  William  Patterson,  (the  same  man  who 
founded  the  Bank  of  England),  a  hard-headed 
Scotchman,  arrived  at  the  coast  of  Darien  with 
a    squadron   of   ships   and   1200  men.     Their 


36  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

object  was  to  establish  a  British  colony  on  the 
coast,  exploit  the  riches  of  Darien  and  steal  a 
bit  of  Spanish  territory  under  the  very  noses 
of  the  Dons. 

Glad  to  help  any  enemies  of  the  hated 
Spaniards,  the  Indians  made  a  treaty  of  peace 
with  Patterson  and  a  town  was  estabhshed 
which  they  called  New  Edinburgh,  while  the 
land  which  they  took  possession  of  in  the  name 
of  the  King  of  England,  and  which  they 
claimed  from  Porto  Bello  to  the  Gulf  of  Uraba, 
was  christened  Calidonia. 

Like  many  another  expedition  Patterson's 
venture  was  doomed  to  failure  through  igno- 
ance  and  shortsightedness  and  so  many  of  the 
colonists  were  taken  sick  and  such  a  large 
number  died  that  the  colony  was  abandoned 
in  June,  1699.  On  the  30th  of  November  of  the 
same  year,  however,  a  second  British  expedi- 
tion arrived  with  1300  men,  but  the  Spaniards, 
now  thoroughly  alive  to  Britian's  determina- 
tion to  secure  a  foothold  on  the  Isthmus,  har- 
assed the  Scotch  and  carried  on  a  relentless 
guerilla  warfare  until  the  British  surrendered 
on  April  24th,  1700  and  were  gallantly  per- 
mitted to  abandon  their  settlement  with  full 
miUtary  honors. 


CHAPTER  III 

THE   DAWN    OF   A   NEW   ERA 

Barren  years.  Dreams  of  liberty.  Freedom  proclaimed. 
Union  with  Colombia..  Argonauts  of  '49.  Panama  Hail- 
way.  The  French  Canal  Company.  Collapse  of  French 
scheme.  Independence  of  Panama.  Treaty  with  United 
States.  Why  Canal  became  a  posssibility.  Sanitatioo  by 
Americans.     A  dream  fulfilled. 

By  this  time,  conditions  in  Panama  were  very 
bad  for  several  reasons.  First,  there  were  the 
constant  raids  of  the  buccaneers  on  the  Atlantic 
coast,  then  the  cimmaroons  and  native  Indians 
were  constantly  revolting  and  destroying  settle- 
ments and  property,  as  well  as  lives,  w^hile,  to 
make  matters  even  worse,  commercial  opera- 
tions had  practically  ceased  as  Spain  no  longer 
used  the  Bridge  of  the  World  as  her  golden 
highway. 

Thus  matters  went  from  bad  to  worse.  The 
vast  herds  of  cattle  which  grazed  upon  the  open 
prairies  of  Code,  Veraguas  and  Los  Santo« 
were  driven  off  or  killed  by  revolting  slaves  and 
Indians  or  were  scattered  far  and  wide  when 
the  ranches  were  burned  and  their  owners  mas- 

37 

47488 


38   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

sacred.  The  mines,  formerly  so  rich,  were 
either  abandoned,  owing  to  the  impossibility  of 
retaining  slave  labor  or  through  the  attacks  of 
Indians  who  murdered  all  within  reach  and 
destroyed  the  shafts  and  works.  Outlying 
farms  and  plantations  could  not  be  worked  and 
Spain,  grown  decadent,  could  offer  no  help  nor 
encouragement  and  the  overbearing  Spanish 
officials  became  tyrannical  despots. 

Then,  with  the  first  cry  of  liberty  given  in 
Quito  in  1809,  ideas  of  freedom  and  indepen- 
dence surged  through  Panama;  but  still  the 
Isthmus  remained  faithful  to  the  Crown  and 
proved  a  most  convenient  spot  for  provisioning 
and  outfitting  the  troops  dispatched  by  Spain 
to  quell  the  revolting  colonies  of  Venezuela, 
Colombia,  Ecuador  and  Peru. 

The  last  of  these  expeditions  to  leave  the 
Isthmus, — and  the  only  one  which  had  any  real 
bearing  upon  the  future  of  Panama, — departed 
for  Ecuador  on  Oct.  22nd,  1821  under  command 
of  Captain  General  Juan  de  la  Cruz  Murgeon. 
Before  leaving.  General  Murgeon  placed  a  dis- 
tinguished Panamanian  in  charge  of  the 
Isthmus.  This  man,  who  had  formerly  been 
Governor  of  Veraguas  Province,  was  Colonel 
Jose  de  Fabrega  and  his  promotion,  at  the  time 


THE  DAWN  OF  A  NEW  ERA       39 

when  Spain 's  cause  in  America  appeared  hope- 
less, raised  the  highest  hopes  of  independence 
in  the  hearts  of  the  Panamanians.  So  success- 
ful were  the  leaders  of  the  secession  in  inducing 
the  Spanish  garrisons  to  desert  that  on  Nov- 
ember 13th,  1821  liberty  was  proclaimed  in 
Los  Santos  and  soon  afterwards  in  Pese  and 
Nata. 

By  the  end  of  November,  desertions  had 
reached  such  a  point  that  the  force  of  loyal 
troops  in  the  capital  had  been  reduced  to  those 
in  charge  of  the  jails  and  when,  on  the  night  of 
Nov.  27th,  sixty  soldiers  deserted  their  posts 
in  a  body  carrying  their  arms  with  them,  the 
Spanish  officers  became  alarmed  and  placed  the 
few  remaining  soldiers  at  the  most  strategic 
spots  about  the  city. 

Despite  this  the  people  invaded  the  Plaza 
Central  and,  without  violence  or  bloodshed, 
demanded  that  the  Municipal  Council  should 
meet  and  decide  the  fate  of  the  Isthmus,  with 
the  result,  that  the  Governor,  the  Captain 
General,  the  Bishop,  the  representatives  of  the 
various  Provinces  and  a  number  of  prominent 
civil  and  military  authorities  met  and  decided 
that  Panama  should  be  freed  of  Spanish  rule 
and  should  join  Colombia  with  Colonel  Fabrega 


40  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

in  supreme  command  of  the  country.  Thus 
Panama  was  the  only  one  of  Spain's  colonies 
to  secure  independence  without  serious  blood- 
shed. 

As  Panama  had  voluntarily  joined  with 
Greater  Colombia,  the  government  of  the  latter 
appointed  a  Venezuelan,  Jose  Maria  Carreno, 
to  take  charge,  Fabrega  at  his  own  request  being 
transferred  to  his  old  post  as  governor  of 
Veraguas.  On  his  arrival,  Carreno  put  into 
effect  the  Constitution  of  Colombia  and  also 
organized  a  body  of  1700  infantry  and  with 
these  he  left  to  cooperate  with  the  forces  fight- 
ing for  hberty  in  Peru,  Colombia  and  Vene- 
zuela. 

Owing  to  the  anarchistic  and  unsettled  con- 
dition of  Colombia,  the  Panamanians  decided 
to  withdraw  from  the  Colombia  federation  and 
to  join  their  state  with  Venezuela  and  Ecuador, 
thus  being  protected  by  the  European  powers 
which  had  recognized  these  countries.  With 
this  object  in  view,  a  meeting  of  the  leading 
citizens  was  called  on  September  26th,  1831  at 
which  Panama  was  declared  independent  of 
Colombia  and  Simon  Bolivar  was  called  upon  to 
aid  in  the  union  of  a  greater  Colombia. 

Under  this  new  order  of  things  General  Jose 


THE  DAWN  OF  A  NEW  ERA        41 

Domingo  Espinar,  the  military  commandant, 
assumed  control  and  the  movement  was  enthusi- 
astically received  through  the  Province  of 
Panama,  but  was  opposed  in  Veraguas,  where 
Fabrega  was  not  in  favor  of  the  move  and,  as 
Bolivar  advised  against  it,  the  Isthmus  was 
once  more  incorporated  with  Colombia  by  the 
decree  of  December  11th,  1831. 

For  the  next  sixteen  years  nothing  of  great 
importance  transpired  to  disturb  the  tran- 
quility of  the  Isthmus  but,  at  the  close  of  the 
Mexican  War,  Panama  suddenly  sprang  into 
world-wide  prominence  and  reaped  such  a 
harvest  of  gold  and  prosperity  as  it  had  not 
seen  since  the  famous  days  of  the  old  Gold  Road 
and  the  plate-laden  galleons. 

With  the  discovery  of  gold  in  California, 
hundreds  of  the  Argonauts  chose  the  Panama 
route  in  preference  to  the  tedious,  but  scarcely 
more  dangerous,  way  across  the  plains  and  the 
Rockies.  Following  in  the  footsteps  of  Morgan 
and  his  buccaneers,  the  gold  seekers  made  their 
way  up  the  Chagres  to  Cruces  and  hence  by 
mule  or  afoot  to  Panama.  Absolutely  lacking 
in  sanitation,  Panama  was  then  a  veritable  pest 
hole  of  disease;  the  towns  on  the  Chagres  and 
the  rough  camps  and  settlements  which  sprang 


42   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

up  were  reeking  with  jSlth  and  the  deadly 
Chagres  fever  was  carried  everywhere  by  the 
swarming  mosquitoes.  Vile  liquor  and  viler 
women  added  their  quota  to  the  hell  hole  of  the 
Isthmus  and  Panama  became  a  synonym  for  all 
that  was  deadly,  disease  ridden  and  to  be 
shunned.  The  wonder  is  that  any  of  the  gold- 
crazed  men  ever  lived  to  reach  their  destina- 
tion, not  that  so  many  died,  and  the  irony  of  it 
was,  that  in  their  one  blind  endeavor  to  reach 
the  new  Eldorado  of  California,  they  passed  all 
unheeding  through  a  land  where  every  stream 
carries  gold  and  which  once  was  the  greatest 
gold  producing  country  in  the  world. 

But  to  Panama  the  Argonauts  were  a  treas- 
ure trove ;  immense  stocks  of  merchandise  filled 
the  shops  and  stores ;  prices  soared  to  unheard 
of  heights;  money  flowed  like  water  and  un- 
dreamed of  prosperity  set  in.  Moreover,  as  it 
was  very  dangerous  to  transport  gold  across 
the  continent,  and  as  the  costs  of  freighting 
supplies  by  ox  cart  or  pack  train  from  east  to 
west  was  tremendous,  conmaerce  once  more 
flowed  back  and  forth  across  the  Isthmus ;  ships 
once  more  filled  its  harbors  and  then,  to  accom- 
modate the  fast  increasing  traflic,  the  Panama 
Bailway  was  begun  in  May,  1850  and  completed 


THE  DAWN  OF  A  NEW,  ERA       43 

on  January  27th,  1855  at  a  cost  of  nearly  eight 
millions,  and  the  Bridge  of  the  World  b«eoame  a 
world  ^s  highway  in  truth. 

Although  Panama  thought  the  pinnacle  of 
prosperity  and  affluence  had  been  reached  with 
the  building  of  the  railroad  and  the  immense 
increase  in  interoceanic  commerce  which  fol- 
lowed, yet  it  was  as  nothing  compared  to  the 
boom  which  fell  to  the  lot  of  the  country  when 
the  French  commenced  the  task  of  severing  the 
Isthmus  by  a  ship  canal.  As  mentioned  in  a 
previous  chapter,  the  idea  of  a  trans-isthmian 
canal  was  broached  soon  after  the  country  was 
settled  by  the  Spaniards,  in  1534  in  fact,  but 
that,  and  a  later  scheme  in  1616,  were  abandoned 
for  several  reasons.  The  church  opposed  it  on 
the  ground  that  it  would  be  sacrilegious  to  con- 
nect oceans  separated  by  God;  the  cost  was  too 
great  to  be  borne  by  the  treasury  of  Spain,  while 
finally,  and  possibly  most  important  of  all,  the 
Spaniards  feared  that  a  canal  across  the  Isth- 
mus would  be  of  greater  benefit  to  their  foes 
than  to  themselves. 

The  first  survey  in  1534  was  over  very  nearly 
the  same  route  followed  by  the  French,  and 
later  by  the  Americans,  the  idea  being  to  utilize 
the  Chagres    River  to  Cruces  and  then  cut 


44  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

through  to  the  Rio  Grande.  But  the  survey  of 
1616  was  over  the  old  Darien  route  followed  by 
Balboa,  and,  in  many  ways,  this  was  preferable 
to  the  other.  In  fact,  both  the  French  and 
American  engineers  looked  into  the  possibili- 
ties of  this  route  and  not  a  few  engineers  claim 
that  it  would  have  been  cheaper  and  better  in 
the  end  than  the  one  adopted. 

After  more  than  two  centuries  the  project  of 
a  canal  across  the  Isthmus  was  again  broached 
in  1838  when  a  concession  was  granted  to  a 
French  company  and  Napoleon  Garella  was  sent 
to  make  a  report.  Although  he  reported  favor- 
ably yet  the  concession  was  allowed  to  lapse  ow- 
ing to  lack  of  capital.  Then,  in  1878,  the  Uni- 
versal Interoceanic  Canal  was  organized  and  in- 
corporated by  Ferdinand  de  Lesseps  who  con- 
vened a  congress  called  the  ''International  Con- 
gress of  Surveys  for  an  Interoceanic  Canal." 
This  committee,  which  met  in  Paris  in  1879  de- 
cided upon  a  sea  level  canal  to  be  completed  in 
twelve  years  at  a  cost  of  $240,000,000. 

Almost  immediately,  a  large  slice  of  the  lim- 
ited capital  was  used  in  purchasing  a  control- 
ling interest  in  the  stock  of  the  Panama  Rail- 
way, for  the  excessive  sum  of  over  $18,000,000. 
During  the  next  two  years  over  $60,000,000. 


THE  DAWN  OF  A  NEW  ERA        45 

were  used  in  sur\^eys  and  preliminary  work  and 
little  accomplished,  for  De  Lesseps,  who  had 
successfully  built  the  Suez  Canal,  would  listen 
to  nothing  but  a  sea-level  canal  for  the  Isthmus. 
By  1887  not  a  stroke  of  actual  construction 
work  had  been  done  and  by  then  the  French  had 
become  convinced  that  it  was  impossible  to 
complete  their  original  plans  with  the  funds 
at  their  disposal.    As  a  result,  the  sea-level 
idea  was  abandoned  in  favor  of  a  canal  with 
locks,  which  would  raise  the  summit  level  above 
the  flood  level  of  the  Chagres  and  which  would 
be  supplied  with  water  by  pumping.    With  this 
new  plan  in  view,  actual  excavation  work  was 
commenced  in  1888,  but,  a  year  later,  the  com- 
pany  went  into   bankruptcy.    Although   over 
$260,000,000.    had    been    expended    and    only 
66,700,000    cubic   yards   had   been    excavated, 
nevertheless,  a  new  company  was  formed  in 
1894    and   work   was    resumed   in    1895;    but 
through    mismanagement,    waste,    inefficiency, 
lack  of  adequate  funds  and,  most  of  all,  owing 
to  the  enormous  fatality  among  the  men  from 
fever  and  other  diseases,  the  French  gave  up  in 
despair,    leaving    vast    amounts    of    supplies, 
machinery  and  equipment  to  rust  and  corrode 
and  to  be  overgrown  with  the  jungle. 


46   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

It  was  then  that  negotiations  were  begun 
with  the  governments  of  the  United  States  and 
Colombia  with  a  view  to  disposing  of  the 
French  concessions  to  the  United  States  and  the 
Herran-Hay  treaty  was  drawn  up  by  which  Co- 
lombia was  to  authorize  the  French  company  to 
dispose  of  its  rights  and  properties  to  the 
United  States,  and  giving  the  latter  the  sole 
right  to  construct  and  operate  the  canal  for  a 
term  of  100  years, — which  might  be  renewed, — 
and  at  the  same  time  ceding  a  zone  three  miles 
wide  on  each  side  of  the  canal,  but  excluding 
the  cities  of  Panama  and  Colon. 

Although  satisfactory  to  both  the  French  and 
the  Americans,  yet  this  treaty  met  with  great 
opposition  in  Colombia  and  was  rejected  by  the 
Colombian  congress  on  August  12th,  1903,  de- 
spite declarations  by  the  Panamanian  represen- 
tatives, Jose  Domingo  de  Obaldia  and  Dr.  Louis 
de  Roux,  who  stated  that  if  the  treaty  were 
thrown  out  Panama  might  revolt  and  establish 
an  independent  government  in  order  to  make 
the  canal  possible. 

A  few  days  after  the  rejection  of  the  treaty, 
Obaldia,  who  had  been  appointed  governor  of 
Panama,  returned  to  his  native  land  and  with 
his  friends  of  the  independent  party  at  once 


THE  DAWN  OF  A  NEW  ERA        47 

proceeded  to  open  secret  negotiations  with 
Washington,  with  the  idea  of  obtaining  assur- 
ances that,  in  case  the  independence  of  Panama 
were  declared,  the  United  States  would 
recognize  it.  As  an  inducement,  the  Panama- 
nians pledged  themselves  to  sign  a  treaty 
similar  to  the  Herran-Hay  and,  to  carry  out 
these  negotiations,  Dr.  Manuel  Amador  Guer- 
rero was  dispatched  to  the  United  States.  Ac- 
complishing his  mission  with  the  greatest  suc- 
cess, and  being  assured  that  Uncle  Sam  would 
stand  behind  their  secession,  the  Panamanians 
appointed  a  Committee  of  Independence  with 
Guerrero  at  its  head  and  at  once  obtained  the 
cooperation  of  the  liberal  party  and  the  services 
of  General  Esteban  Huertas,  who  was  then 
chief  of  the  Colombian  troops  in  Panama. 

Headed  by  the  liberal  leader.  General  Do- 
mingo Diaz,  the  leading  citizens  met  in  Santa 
Ana  Plaza  on  the  afternoon  of  Nov.  3rd,  1903 
and  marched  to  the  Chiriqui  barracks  where 
General  Huertas  had  already  imprisoned  two 
Colombian  generals,  Juan  B.  Tobar  and  Ramon 
C.  Amaya,  who  had  been  dispatched  from 
Colombia  at  the  head  of  a  battalion  with  orders 
to  replace  General  Huertas.  Unfortunately 
for  them,  they  had  traveled  across  from  Colon 


48  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

alone,  leaving  their  troops  behind  owing  to  the 
difficulty  of  transportation  and  had  thus  fallen 
easily  into  the  hands  of  the  revolutionists. 

On  the  evening  of  the  same  day,  the  council 
issued  an  Act  of  Independence  and  appointed 
Jose  Agustin  Arango,  Federico  Boyd  and 
Tomas  Arias  as  a  Governing  Committee  to  pro- 
visionally rule  the  new  republic. 

Thus  it  was  practically  a  bloodless  revolution, 
although  there  was  some  fighting  in  the  outly- 
ing districts,  and  on  January  15th,  1904  Dr. 
Guerrero  was  appointed  President  of  the 
Republic  and  assumed  his  duties  on  Feb.  20th. 

Meanwhile,  on  November  18th,  1903  the  Canal 
treaty  between  Panama  and  the  United  States 
had  been  signed  and  on  May  4th,  1904  active 
work  commenced  on  this  greatest  of  engineer- 
ing feats.  • 

Thus,  in  less  than  a  year  from  the  time  when 
Colombia  rejected  the  Herran-Hay  treaty,  the 
Panamanians  had  won  their  independence,  had 
negotiated  the  Canal  treaty  and  actually  had 
seen  the  great  work  commenced, — truly  no  one 
could  accuse  them  of  the  *'manana"  habit  in 
this  instance! 

Although  the  Panamanians  were  quite  alive 
to  the  benefits,  both  financial  and  otherwise, 


N 


THE  DAWN  OF  A  NEW  ERA       49 

which  would  accrue  to  them  by  the  building  of 
the  Canal,  yet  it  is  doubtful  if  they,  or  any  one 
else,  realized  the  extent  of  such  benefits  or  the 
far  reaching  effects  of  the  Canal  and  their 
agreement  with  Uncle  Sam,  and  it  is  certain 
that  they  did  not  realize  how  much  they  were 
giving  on  their  part  nor  to  what  extent  the 
treaty  bound  them  hand  and  foot. 

No  doubt  exists  that,  on  the  whole,  Panama 
has  gained  by  the  Canal,  but  it  is  at  times  a  bit 
galling  to  find  oneself  compelled  to  swallo"W 
pride   and   self-respect   for   one's    own   good. 
This  is  the  case  with  Panama,  for  while  the  ten 
million  dollars  paid  by  the  United  States  for 
its   privileges   was   welcome  to   the  newborn 
republic;  while  the  tremendous  commerce  and 
undreamed  of  prosperity  which  it  brought  have 
been  a  Godsend  to  the  people ;  while  the  sanita- 
tion and  sanitary  laws  have  resulted  in  incal- 
culable benefits  and  while  the  presence  "of  the 
Americans  and  American  forces  have  protected 
Panama    from    internal    strife    and    foreign 
aggression,  yet  her  sovereignty  has  become 
little  more  than  a  name,  her  freedom  of  action 
has  been  sadly  curtailed ;  there  have  been  many 
abuses    and   unfair  discriminations;    she   has 
been  compelled  to  submit  to  many  petty  annoy- 


50  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

ances  and  to  the  will  of  a  great  power  and, 
among  many  of  the  more  intelligent  people, 
there  is  a  feeling  that  Panama  got  the  worst 
of  the  bargain. 

On  the  other  hand,  had  it  not  been  for  the 
Canal  and  the  Americans  it  is  doubtful  if  the 
Panamanians  could  have  won  their  freedom, — 
at  least  without  a  long  and  bloody  war, — and, 
had  it  been  won,  the  Republic  would  have  been 
unsettled,  insecure  and  in  dire  financial  straits, 
so  that  even  if  Panama  did  sell  its  birthright 
for  a  mess  of  pottage,  as  some  Panamanians 
think,  still  that  birthright  without  the  pottage 
would  have  been  of  little  value. 

Much  credit  has  been  given  to  the  Americans 
for  carrying  out  the  tremendous  project  at 
which  the  French  had  so  signally  failed,  and 
while  great  credit  is  due  them,  yet  it  must  not 
be  forgotten  that  without  the  aid  of  the  Pana- 
manians the  Canal  would  have  been  an  impos- 
sibility at  the  time  it  was  built. 

So  too,  we  should  not  forget  the  humble  West 
Indian  negroes,  the  thousands  of  dark-skinned 
laborers  who  toiled  and  strove  and  did  the 
menial  work  and  without  whom  our  engineers, 
our  wealth,  our  marvelous  machinery,  our  vast 
resources,  would  have  been  of  no  avail. 


THE  DAWN  OF  A  NEW  ERA        51 

And,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  really 
important  factor  in  the  success  of  the  herculean 
task, — the  true,  fundamental  reason  for  our 
achievement,  was  one  of  the  lowest  forms  of 
animal  life, — a  microscopic  protozoan  parasite 
of  a  certain  species  of  mosquito! 

For  centuries  the  Isthmus  had  been  a  pest 
hole  of  death  and  disease,  a  hot  bed  of  perni- 
cious malaria,  a  veritable  white  man's  grave. 

In  the  construction  of  the  Panama  Railway 
the  toll  of  human  life  was  so  great  that  it  has 
been  said  (with  little  exaggeration)  that  a  life 
was  sacrificed  for  every  tie  laid.  During  the 
French  efforts  the  death  rate  was  even  higher 
and,  if  one  cares  to  see  a  startling  illustration 
of  the  mortality  of  those  days,  one  should  visit 
the  cemetery  at  Mount  Hope  where,  in  endless 
rows  stretching  far  into  the  distance,  close 
packed  together  and  covering  acres  of  ground, 
are  the  tiny,  white  crosses  marking  the  resting 
places  of  those  thousands  sacrificed  to  the 
relentless  greed  of  commerce. 

But  when  the  Americans  took  charge  all 
this  was  changed.  Scientists  had  learned  of 
the  source  of  malaria  and  yellow  fever;  their 
microscopic  studies  of  the  protozoan  parasite  of 
the  mosquito  had  reached  the  stage  where  prac- 


52  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

tical  measures  could  be  employed  to  destroy  the 
insect  germ  carriers  and  stamp  out  the  fevers, 
and  the  first  things  done  were  to  clean  up  Pan- 
ama and  Colon;  drain  swamps  and  bogs; 
cover  the  stagnant  waters  with  oil  to  destroy 
mosquito  larvae  and  prevent  the  insects  from 
breeding. 

And  so  successful  were  these  methods,  so 
thoroughly  was  sanitation  carried  out,  that  the 
Isthmian  towns  and  the  Zone  were  transformed 
as  if  by  magic  from  pest  holes  to  the  most 
healthful  spots  in  the  tropics. 


Panama  and  the  Canal  Zone.  Government.  Limits  of 
Zone.  Leased  lands.  Peculiarities  of  Panama.  Points  of 
the  compass.  A  confusing  country.  Law  and  order.  Cos- 
mopolitan people.  Panamanians.  Character  of  people. 
Progressive  element.  Peons  and  their  shortcomings.  Need 
of  roads.     Interior  towns.     Fascinating  spots. 

One  of  the  most  perplexing  puzzles  to  many 
visitors  to  Panama  is  the  question  of  what  is 
Panama  and  what  is  Canal  Zone.  Many  people 
have  an  idea  that  the  Americans  control  the 
entire  Isthmus;  others  believe  that  only  the 
Canal  itself  is  under  the  United  States  Govern- 
ment ;  others  cannot  understand  that  Panama  is 
a  sovereign  state  with  its  own  government  and 
still  others  think  that  the  cities  of  Panama  and 
Colon  are  in  the  Zone. 

The  Republic  of  Panama  is  composed  of 
eight  provinces  or  states  known  as  Panama, 
Colon,  Code,  Los  Santos,  Herrera,  Veraguas, 
Chiriqui  and  Bocas  del  Toro,  each  province 
having  its  own  governor  and  provincial  officials 
and  the  whole  being  governed  by  the  President 

63 


54  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

with  his  cabinet  and  the  National  Assembly 
(composed    of    delegates    from    the    various 
provinces)  in  Panama  City,  the  capital  of  the 
republic. 

The  American  territory  consists  only  of  the 
Canal  Zone, — ^a  strip  of  land  ten  miles  in  width 
(five  miles  on  either  side  of  the  Canal)  across 
the  Isthmus  and  passing  through  the  provinces 
of  Panama  and  Colon.  Normally  this  area 
would  include  the  cities  of  Panama  and  Colon, 
but  special  provisions  were  made  in  the  treaty 
excepting  these  cities  and  a  narrow  strip  of 
land,  from  the  Zone  in  order  that  the  cities 
might  remain  on  Panamanian  territory,  and 
that  their  inhabitants  might  have  ingress  and 
egress  without  the  necessity  of  passing  through 
Zone  territory. 

Moreover,  the  Canal  Zone  does  not  belong 
to  the  United  States,  but  is  merely  leased  and 
under  American  control,  being  governed  by  a 
military  governor  appointed  by  the  President 
of  the  United  States. 

Another  cause  of  confusion  arises  from  the 
fact  that  while  the  original  treaty  provided  for 
the  ten  mile  strip,  a  later  treaty  was  entered 
into  by  which  the  United  States  was  granted 
control  of  all  land  bordering  the  Zone  up  to 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PRESENT        55 

the  100  foot  level  above  the  sea.  This  was 
done  in  order  that  the  Zone  authorities  might 
control  the  sanitation  on  the  borders  O'f  Gatun 
Lake  and  its  tributary  streams  and  also  to 
provide  for  an  increase  in  the  size  and  height 
of  the  Lake  should  the  necessity  ever  arise. 
As  a  result,  the  present  boundaries  of  the  Zone, 
along  the  100  feet  contour  line,  greatly  exceed 
the  five  mile  limit  on  either  side.  Between  the 
limits  of  this  contour  line  and  the  original 
boundaries  the  Zone  government  has  certain 
limited  powers. 

In  addition  to  all  this,  there  were  certain 
lands  which  w^ere  leased  to  the  Panama  Railway 
long  before  the  Canal  was  projected  and  when, 
later,  the  railway  was  taken  over  by  the  United 
States,  these  properties  came  with  it,  but  are 
not  under  the  control  or  government  of  the 
Zone  or  the  United  States. 

Thus,  the  Washington  Hotel  in  Colon  is  main- 
tained and  operated  by  the  government  through 
the  Commissary  Department  of  the  Panama 
Railway,  but  the  land  whereon  it  stands  is  Pan- 
amanian territory  leased  to  the  railway  and 
not  subject  to  United  States  control,  laws  or 
rules. 

This  will  be  better  understood  by  referring 


56  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

to  the  accompanying  maps  and  the  intending 
visitor  to  the  Isthmus  will  do  well  to  thoroughly 
familiarize  himself  with  the  matter  for,  with  a 
bone-dry  Zone  and  a  decidedly  wet  Panama, 
one  Is  likely  to  get  into  serious  difficulties  if 
not  thoroughly  conversant  with  the  boundaries 
of  the  two. 

For  example,  although  liquor  cannot  be  sold 
by  the  Washington  Hotel, — it  being  a  United 
States  Government  hotel, — yet,  as  it  is  in  Pan- 
amanian territory  and  not  subject  to  American 
laws,  guests  are  at  liberty  to  have  their  liquor 
in  the  hotel,  to  have  it  served  in  the  dining 
room  and  even  to  have  it  kept  in  the  hotel  ice 
box  until  needed.  But  because  this  is  so,  it 
must  not  be  assumed  that  the  rule  holds  good 
at  the  other  end  of  the  Canal  at  the  Hotel 
Tivoli,  for  this  is  a  U-nited  States  Government 
hotel  on  Canal  Zone  territory  and  woe  to  the 
innocent  guest  who  attempts  to  possess  or  use 
liquors  within  its  precints. 

Although  the  youngest  and  one  of  the  small- 
est of  American  republics,  yet  Panama  is  an 
extremely  interesting  and  a  tremendously  rich 
country  and,  moreover,  it  has  the  distinction 
of  possessing  many  unique  features.  It  is  the 
narrowest  barrier  between  the  two  great  oceans ; 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PEESENT        57 

it  is  the  connecting  link  between  the  two  Amer- 
icas and  it  is  the  only  spot  in  the  world  where 
one  may  see  the  sun  rise  from  the  Pacific  and 
set  in  the  Atlantic. 

While  our  geographies  taught  us  that  the 
Isthmus  does  not  extend  north  and  south,  and 
while  we  have  been  told  many  times  that  the 
Canal  does  not  run  east  and  west,  and  even 
though  we  may  have  learned  that  Colon  on  the 
Atlantic  coast  is  further  west  than  Panama  on 
the  Pacific,  yet  the  visitor  to  Panama  invariably 
finds  his  sense  of  direction  at  a  loss  and  becomes 
terribly  twisted  and  confused  as  to  the  points 
of  the  compass. 

Somehow,  north  and  east  never  seem  to  be 
in  the  right  place.  One  looks  out  from  Colon 
upon  the  Caribbean  and  expects  to  see  the  sun 
rising  in  the  morning  and  instead,  sees  it  set 
there  at  night.  One  sees  ships,  bound  for  New 
York,  headed  in  a  direction  which  one  feels 
should  carry  them  to  the  coast  of  Colombia  and 
it  comes  as  a  distinct  shock  to  discover  that 
Isthmian  time  and  New  York  time  are  the  same 
and  that  Panama  is  as  far  east  as  Buffalo  or 
Toronto.  In  sailing  from  the  Pacific  terminus 
of  the  Canal  for  the  Pacific  ports  of  South 
America  the  vessel  heads  more  west  than  south 


58  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

while,  if  bound  for  Cartagena,  one  sails  more 
to  the  north  than  the  east. 

It  is  even  worse  in  the  interior  and  the 
traveler  feels  that  he  must  be  taking  leave  of 
his  senses  when  he  sees  the  sun  rising  in  gor- 
geous splendor  above  the  serrated  tips  of  the 
Cordilleras  and  when,  a  little  later,  he  gains 
the  coast  and  gazes  at  the  moon  lifting  slowly 
from  the  Pacific,  he  feels  that  this  indeed  is 
topsy-turvy  land.  And  almost  as  confusing  and 
topsy-turvy  to  a  stranger  as  are  the  points  of 
the  compass,  are  many  of  the  other  characters 
and  features  of  Panama. 

Here  is  a  Latin  American  republic  where 
revolutions  and  insurrections  are  unknown. 
Here  is  one  of  the  little  countries  we  are  wont 
to  associate  w^th  comic  operas  and  fiction  mag- 
azines, yet  wherein  peace  and  order  reign  and 
where  laws  and  concessions  are  as  secure  and 
stable  as  our  own.  Here  is  a  land  of  tempera- 
mental Latins  where  elections  are  held  and 
oflQcials  elected  without  as  much  graft,  and  with 
less  turbulent  scenes,  than  in  our  own  United 
States,  and  here  is  a  country  within  a  few  hun- 
dred miles  of  the  equator  where  it  is  never  as 
hot  as  in  New  York  in  summer  and  where  the 
death  rate  is  lower  than  in  most  of  our  cities. 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PRESENT        59 

Truly  a  cosmopolitan  country  is  Panama. 
Every  color,  creed  and  race  is  here ;  turbanned 
Hindus;  Chinese,  Japanese,  Negro  and  Slav, 
Spaniard  and  Greek,  Italian  and  Arab,  German 
and  Dane,  Dutch  and  French,  English  and 
Egyptian,  Turk  and  Annenian,  Syrian  and  Rus- 
sians;  Stolid  Indians  and  tow-headed  Swedes; 
Americans  by  thousands  and  countless  others 
of  every  imaginable  mixture  of  all. 

So  numerous  are  the  sons  and  daughters  of 
other  lands  that  the  visitor  wonders  if  there  are 
any  real  Panamanians  and  he  quite  overlooks 
the  fact  that  the  term  Panamanian  covers  a 
multitude  of  skins  and  that  he  may  be  white, 
black,  yellow,  or  brown;  he  may  be  from  the 
Orient  or  the  Occident ;  he  may  be  a  slant-eyed 
Celestial  or  a  kinky -haired  negro,  a  silky- voiced 
Hindu  or  a  bland-faced  Hebrew,  for  here,  on 
the  Bridge  of  the  World,  have  gathered  men 
from  the  uttermost  ends  of  the  earth  to  settle 
down,  marry  and  rear  their  families  and  to 
become  citizens  of  Panama.      \^ 

But  in  speaking  of  Panamanians  as  such,  it 
is  understood  that  one  refers  to  the  natives  of 
Spanish,  or  mixed  blood.  And  just  as  it  is  a 
veritable  melting  pot  of  nations  so  too  it  is  a 
true  democracy  and  a  really  free  country.    As 


60  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

long  as  the  stranger  mthin  the  bounds  of  Pan- 
ama obeys  its  laws,  minds  his  own  business  and 
does  not  disturb  the  peace  he  is  at  liberty  to 
ply  his  trade,  go  his  way,  live  his  life  and  man- 
age his  affairs  as  he  sees  fit  without  inter- 
ference, molestation  or  discrimination. 

The  lowliest  peon  may  become  president  (as 
has  been  done),  the  humblest  tradesman  may 
rise  to  the  highest  position,  for  no  line  is  drawn 
at  creed,  color  or  station  in  life. 

All  too  often,  the  American  looks  down  upon 
the  Panamanian,  speaks  contemptuously  of  him 
as  a  *'Spigotty"  or  ''Spdg'*  and  openly  loathes 
and  despises  him.  Of  course  the  Panamanian 
has  his  faults  and  his  shortcomings,  as  does 
every  race,  but  because  he  is  not  of  our  blood, 
because  his  moral  code  is  not  ours,  because  he 
shows  his  common  sense  and  his  concessions  to 
the  tropics  by  taking  life  easily  and  nev«er  hurry- 
ing, is  no  excuse  for  condemning  him  outright. 

Whether  of  low  or  high  degree  be  is  polite, 
courteous,  artistic  in  temperament,  passion- 
ately fond  of  music  and  poetry,  romantic,  gal- 
lant and  intensely  patriotic.  To  our  minds  he 
may  be  cruel,  because  he  loves  cock-fights  and 
bull  fights,  he  may  be  a  gambler,  because  of  the 
lottery,  he  may  be  a  dozen  things  which  we  do 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PRESENT        61 

not  approve,  but  he  is  seldom  or  never  turbu- 
lent or  rowdyish.  It  is  a  rare  thing  indeed  to 
see  him  intoxicated  in  public,  he  has  the 
manners  of  a  grandee  and  he  is  fonder  of  a 
baseball  match,  a  horse  race  or  a  boxing  match 
than  of  a  bull  fight. 

Unfortunately  for  Panama  the  great  failing 
of  the  Panamanian  is  that  he  is  not  a  builder, 
a  manufacturer,  a  colonizer,  a  merchant  or  a 
developer.  And  when  I  say  Panamanian  in 
this  connection  I  refer  to  the  Panamanian  of 
Spanish  or  partly  Spanish  blood,  the  Pana- 
manian of  a  long  line  of  ancestors  of  native 
birth. 

Very  little  of  the  business  of  the  Republic  is 
in  the  hands  of  true  Panamanians ;  the  majority 
of  the  merchants  are  Hindus,  Chinese,  Syrians, 
Italians,  French,  Spaniards  or  Hebrews;  the 
big  commission  merchants  are  largely  of 
foreign  birth  or  descent;  the  industries  and 
manufactures  are  principally  handled  by  Amer- 
icans and  the  intelligent  class  of  native  sons 
fill  government  positions,  practice  law,  medicine 
or  dentistry  or  are  civil  engineers,  accountants 
or  professional  men  in  other  lines.  Those  bom 
in  the  outlying  district  gravitate  to  the  cities, 
as  do  our  own  country  bred  youths,  and,  as  a 


62   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

result,  the  country  is  backward,  undeveloped 
and  unproductive  while  the  cities  are  crowded 
with  young  men  who  devote  all  their  spare 
time, — ^and  they  have  an  abundance  of  it, — and 
most  of  their  energies  to  dressing  **  Broadway 
style"  and  being  real  ''sports." 

As  a  result,  many  of  the  interior  towns, 
which  were  formerly  prosperous,  have  degen- 
erated and  are  now  merely  pathetic  relics  of 
their  former  greatness  with  their  houses  and 
buildings  tumbling  about  their  owners'  ears; 
the  surrounding  estates  and  farms  overgrown 
with  bush  and  neglected;  the  people  poverty 
stricken  and  without  ambition,  for  with  the  dis- 
appearance of  the  old  and  almost  feudal  order 
of  things  and  the  migration  of  the  scions  of  the 
prominent  fajnilies  to  the  cities,  the  peons  drop 
back  into  primitive  conditions  and  do  just 
enough  work  to  keep  soul  and  body  together. 

It  is  not  the  Grovernment 's  fault,  but  an 
exjonomic  condition  brought  about  through  in- 
fluences extending  back  to  the  old  colonial  days 
and  before.  The  present  Executive,  Doctor 
Porras,  is  a  most  progressive,  wide-awake,  and 
constructive  man  and  has  the  well-being  of  his 
country  at  heart;  his  Cabinet  is  composed  of 
men  almost  as  progressive  and  modern  as  him- 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PRESENT        63 

self;  the  Board  of  Education  under  Doctor 
Duncan  and  Doctor  Libby,  has  done  marvel- 
lous work  and  has  initiated  schools  throughout 
the  Republic;  the  Rockefeller  Foundation  has 
carrried  on  a  far-reaching  and  beneficent  work 
in  the  cure  of  Hookworm ;  but  all  to  little  or  no 
avail,  for  the  peon,  white,  black  or  brown,  goes 
his  way  and  lives  his  hand  to  mouth  life  with  no 
attempt  or  effort  to  better  himself  or  his 
country. 

Many  have  brought  forth  the  argument  that 
the  lack  of  enterprise  and  industry  in  the  in- 
terior are  due  to  the  lack  of  transportation  and 
the  claim  is  made  that,  with  good  roads  and 
accessible  markets,  the  countr^^  people  would 
buck  up  and  make  the  desert  blossom  like  the 
famous  rose,  and  with  this  end  in  view  good 
roads  are  being  projected  throughout  the 
country. 

But  I  doubt  if  these  alone  will  produce  any 
noticeable  improvement  without  the  introduc- 
tion of  farmers,  planters,  cattlemen  and  crafts- 
men from  abroad,  for  the  real  trouble  is  that 
the  native  Panamanian  of  the  interior  is  a 
decadent,  lazy,  ambitionless  character  of  weak 
physique  and  in  most  cases  so  badly  nourished 
and  so  afflicted  with  Hookworm  that  he  has  not 


64   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

the  power,  the  ability  or  the  ambition  to  become 
a  producer. 

His  ancestors  were  Indian,  Moorish  or  Negro 
slaves  and  indolent  Spanish  adventurers;  for 
centuries  he  was  a  *'peon"  in  fact  as  well  as  in 
name;  he  was  kept  subservient,  downtrodden 
and  ignorant  by  the  rich  owners  of  vast  estates 
and  he  has  become,  through  generations,  so 
accustomed  to  living  in  a  hovel  and  subsisting 
on  the  coarsest  and  most  easily  cultivated  foods 
that  he  cannot  rise  and  do  better. 

But  with  education  and  freedom,  with  the  ex- 
ample of  others,  with  something  to  look  for- 
ward to  and  under  present  day  conditions  the 
coming  generation  of  the  peon  classes  will  no 
doubt  improve  and,  if  once  the  hard  working, 
industrious,  physically  strong  natives  of  the 
farmlands  of  Europe  can  be  induced  to  emmi- 
grate  to  Panama,  the  future  of  the  country's 
prosperity  will  be  assured. 

Even  as  it  is,  the  splendid  roads  which  are 
planned  will,  when  completed,  prove  of  tremen- 
dous benefit,  not  only  to  the  people  of  the 
interior  but  to  the  cities.  It  seems  ridiculous 
to  find  the  shops  and  markets  of  Colon  and 
Panama  selling  imported  oranges,  grape  fruit, 
lemons,  potatoes,  onions  and  other  garden  truck 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PRESENT        65 

and  produce  when  the  finest  oranges  one  could 
wish  are  rotting  on  the  ground  in  Veraguas; 
when  every  vegetable  of  the  temperate  zone 
may  be  raised  to  perfection  in  the  highlands  of 
Chiriqui,  Code  or  Veraguas  and  with  lemons 
and  limes  fairly  breaking  the  branches  of  the 
trees  in  forgotten  estates  half  overgrown  with 
jungle.  So  too,  with  fresh  laid  eggs  selling  for 
a  few  cents  a  dozen  in  the  interior  the  markets 
of  the  cities  sell  cold  storage  eggs  from  the 
States  at  nearly  a  dollar  a  dozen,  and  scrawny 
chickens  bring  a  dollar  or  two  each  in  the  mar- 
kets while  plump  fowls  go  begging  at  twenty 
five  cents  and  turkeys  are  a  drug  on  the  market 
at  one  dollar  in  the  interior. 

So,  even  if  the  natives  do  not  buck  up  and 
avail  themselves  of  the  advantages  of  good 
roads  the  city  dwellers  will  at  least  be  able  to 
go  foraging  and  secure  good  food  at  reasonable 
prices  while,  no  doubt,  many  families  will  for- 
sake the  larger  towns  and  will  make  homes  in 
the  country,  all  of  which  will  tend  to  increase 
prosperity,  progress  and  development. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  however,  that  what 
I  have  said  in  the  preceding  paragraphs  can 
be  applied  to  all  the  Panamanians  of  the  in- 
terior.   In  many  of  the  towns  and  cities  are  in- 


66      PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

telligent,  well  to  do,  industrious  men;  many  of 
the  interior  towns  are  quite  thriving  and  busy, 
despite  their  inaccessibility,  and  my  remarks 
only  apply  to  the  bulk  of  the  population  of  the 
interior, — the  so-called  peon  class  of  small 
farmers,  the  poverty  stricken  squatters  and 
the  denizens  of  the  smaller  villages. 

One  great  mistake  made  by  visitors  to  Pan- 
ama is  that  they  assume  that  there  are  no  towns 
aside  from  Colon  and  Panama.  While  there 
are  no  large  cities  and  nothing  to  compare  to 
the  two  terminals  of  the  railway,  still  there  are 
a  number  of  towns  worthy  of  the  name.  Such 
places  as  Agua  Dulce,  Santiago  de  Veraguas, 
David,  Penonome,  Code  and  many  others  are 
interesting,  fairly  prosperous  and  boast  a 
number  of  excellent  buildings  while  some  of 
them  have  a  population  of  nearly  ten  thousand 
inhabitants. 

But  the  great  majority  of  interior  towns  are 
raere  villages  of  thatched  mud  huts,  ill-kept 
streets,  miserable  shops  and  perhaps  a  crum- 
bling old  church.  Despite  this,  however,  the 
country  is  interesting  and  many  of  these  inter- 
ior towns  and  villages  are  fascinating  in  their 
history  and  romance  as  they  date  back  to  the 


PANAMA  OF  THE  PRESENT        67 

early  Spanish  days  or  even  to  the  time  of  the 
Conquest. 

There  is  Nata,  which  lays  claim  to  being  the 
oldest  inhabited  town  on  the  continent,  having 
been  founded  in  1520 ;  .Santiago  founded  in  1521 
and  once  the  center  of  the  richest  gold  district 
in  the  world;  San  Francisco  with  its  ancient 
church  built  in  1522  and  probably  the  oldest 
occupieJ.  Vuilding  on  the  continent;  Santa  Fe, 
ancient  and  somnabulent  in  the  lap  of  the 
towering  Cordilleras ;  'and  many  another,  not  to 
mention  the  quaint  little  towns  where  time  has 
stood  still  and  where  the  people  still  live  and 
dress  as  did  their  ancestors  four  centuries  ago. 
Here  we  find  people  using  the  old  ^' cross" 
money  and  silver  or  brass  stirrups  of  the  gran- 
dees and  treasuring  the  ancient  swords  and  bits 
of  armor  worn  by  the  first  hidalgoes  who  pen- 
etrated the  interior  and  carved  their  way  by  fire 
and  sword. 

And  if  one  be  fond  of  adventure  and  novel 
experiences,  of  hunting  or  fishing,  of  visiting 
out  of  the  world  spots,  there  are  the  Indians  of 
Darien  living  the  same  primitive  savage  life  as 
did  their  forbears  when  Balboa  made  his  famed 
trip  and  first  looked  forth  upon  the  broad  Pa- 
cifiQ, 


68   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

To  all  who  are  fond  of  the  unique,  the  little 
known,  the  picturesque  and  the  out  of  doors,  a 
trip  or  two  through  the  interior  will  prove  of 
the  greatest  interest  and  delight;  but  there  is 
much  of  interest,  of  romantic  and  historic  asso- 
ciation and  of  value  to  be  seen  in  and  about  the 
cities  of  Colon  and  Panama. 


OHAPTEE  V 

THE   FRONT   DOOR  TO   THE   ISTHMUS 

First  sight  of  Isthmus.  Arriving  at  Cristobal.  Colon 
and  Cristobal.  First  impressions.  Colon  in  the  making. 
A  childish  quarrel.  Colon  of  the  past.  Colon  of  today. 
Streets  and  street  scenes.  Shops  and  life.  Shopping. 
Buildings.  Santurce.  Cristobal.  Sights  and  scenes  in 
Cristobal.    Life  on  the  Zone.    A  beneficent  despotism. 

The  front  door  to  the  Isthmus,  and  to  the 
Canal  as  well,  is  Cristobal  and  the  traveler, 
approaching  from  the  Atlantic,  is  apt  to  be 
somewhat  disappointed  as  the  land  unfolds  be- 
fore him. 

For  many  hours  the  ship  steams  along  the 
coast,  with  interminable  green  mountains  rising 
from  the  sea  and  sweeping  back  in  an  endless 
succession  of  purple,  blue,  and  lavender  peaks, 
unbroken  by  clearing,  settlemjent  or  hut,  until 
the  entrance  to  Porto  Bello's  harbor  is  passed 
and  one  glimpses  the  buildings  of  the  town 
among  the  greenery. 

Then  the  mountains  recede;  scattered  hills 
replace  the  lofty  ranges ;  the  land  becomes  low 
and  flat,  and  presently,  we  see  the  slender,  wire- 

69 


70   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

less  towers  rising  above  a  smoky,  hazy,  irreg- 
ular sky  line  which  marks  the  opening  of  the 
Canal  and  the  cities  of  Cristobal  and  Colon. 

A  few  moments  later  and  the  huge  break- 
waters detach  themselves  from  the  background ; 
the  immense  dirigible  sheds  and  hangars  of 
Coco  Solo  and  Fort  Randolph  become  visible; 
the  big  Hotel  Washington  looms  above  its  palm 
trees;  Toro  Point  and  its  lighthouse  are  dis- 
tinguishable to  the  right  and,  beyond  the  break- 
waters and  the  Washington,  we  see  the  tips  of 
masts,  the  smoking  tops  of  funnels  and  the 
black,  skeleton-like  derricks  of  the  coaling  plant 
at  Mindi. 

The  ship  slips  at  half  speed  between  the 
eastern  and  western  breakwaters  and  enters 
Limon  Bay;  two  spotless,  white  launches  come 
speeding  and  dancing  towards  us, — one  bearing 
the  yellow  flag  of  the  quarantine  officers,  the 
other  the  *'P.  C."  of  the  Port  Captain's  depart- 
ment and,  a  moment  later,  the  officious  looking 
officers  of  Uncle  Sam  are  aboard.  Then,  as  is 
always  the  case  when  entering  a  foreign  port, 
a  steward  with  an  impish  grin  shouts  **A11  pas- 
sengers in  the  dining  saloon,"  and  cooped  there, 
replying  to  the  questions  of  the  officials,  we 


FEONT  DOOR  TO  THE  ISTHMUS      71 

remain,  missing  all  the  interest  and  excitement 
of  watching  strange  scenes  as  we  approach  the 
docks  until,  at  last,  having  satisfied  the  repre- 
sentatives of  our  country  that  we  are  neither 
afflicted  with  contagious  diseases,  nor  are  an- 
archists, nor  Bolsheviks,  nor  criminals,  nor 
otherwise  objectionable  characters,  we  are  gra- 
ciously permitted  to  go  on  deck  in  time  to  see 
the  ship  warped  into  the  docks. 

But,  truth  to  tell,  the  visitor  to  Panama 
misses  little  by  this,  for  there  is  little  of  interest 
to  see  in  entering  Colon  harbor.  Indeed,  the 
most  interesting  sights  are  the  enormous  piers 
of  iron  and  concrete, — nine  in  number — ^which 
line  the  eastern  side  of  the  harbor  and  beside 
which  are  moored  steamers  flying  a  score  of 
different  flags. 

Less  than  a  decade  ago  this  was  a  mud  flat, 
unspeakably  filthy  and  odorous ;  but  at  the  touch 
of  the  magic  wand  of  United  States  gold  and 
American  engineers  it  has  been  transformed 
into  a  water-front  with  few  equals  in  the  world 
as  regards  modern  docking  facilities. 

Beyond  the  docks,  palm  trees  rustle  in  the 
trade  wind;  rows  of  flimsy,  wooden  buildings, 
— ^with  here  and  there  a  concrete  structure, — 


72   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PEESENT 

mark  the  City  of  Colon,  while,  nearer  at  hand, 
are  the  tightly-screened  quarters  and  the  impos- 
ing concrete  buildings  of  Cristobal. 

And  before  going  further  it  may  be  well  to 
explain  the  difference  between  Cristobal  and 
Colon  and  to  make  clear  where  one  begins  and 
the  other  ends.  Cristobal  is  the  Canal  Zone 
town  and  Atlantic  terminus  of  the  Canal  and  all 
ships  stopping  here  must  of  necessity  tie  up  at 
the  Cristobal  docks.  As  this  is  United  States 
territory  many  travelers  feel  peeved  at  finding 
they  must  submit  to  an  examination  of  their 
baggage  by  United  States  Customs  officers,  for 
they  cannot  understand  why  American  citizens 
from  a  United  States  port  should  be  subject  to 
this  annoyance  when  entering  American  terri- 
tory. 

But  the  Customs  examination  at  Cristobal  is 
not  carried  out  for  the  United  States  but  for 
Panama,  the  American  government  being  re- 
sponsible to  the  Panamanian  Government  for 
the  collection  of  duties  and  the  examination  of 
baggage  entering  the  Isthmus  through  Cristo- 
bal. A  moment's  consideration  will  make  clear 
how  important  this  is,  for,  with  no  ports  of 
entry  of  their  own,  and  with  all  freights  and 
passengers    entering    their    country    through 


FRONT  DOOR  TO  THE  ISTHMUS      73 

Canal  Zone  ports,  the  Panamanians  could  never 
collect  duties  nor  prevent  smuggling  without  the 
aid  and  cooperation  of  the  United  States  offi- 
cials. 

In  a  way  it  is  a  most  peculiar  condition  of 
affairs  and  absolutely  unique,  for  here  is  a 
country  depending  almost  entirely  upon  com- 
merce and  yet  without  a  port  of  entry  or  a  pier 
where  steamers  may  dock  and  discharge  car- 
goes and  passengers,  the  only  vessels  entering 
or  leaving  Panamanian  ports  being  the  small 
coasting  schooners  and  sloops  and  a  few  erratic 
coastwise  steamers  and  launches. 

Strictly  speaking,  the  boundary  line  between 
Cristobal  and  Colon  (the  Panamanian  town)  is 
the  railway  and  when  one  crosses  the  railway 
tracks  one  passes  from  American  into  Pana- 
manian territory  or  vice-versa.  But  there  are 
certain  exceptions  to  this.  Thus,  the  Strangers 
Club,  although  on  the  Cristobal  side  of  the  rail- 
way, is  in  Panamanian  territory  as  are  also  the 
piers  and  customs  house  of  the  Panamanian 
Government  where  the  smaU  vessels  dock. 

So  too,  the  Commissary  buildings  of  the 
Canal  are  on  the  Colon  side  of  the  tracks,  as  are 
the  Colon  hospital,  a  number  of  residences  and 
employees*  quarters,  the  quarantine  station,  the 


74  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Hotel  Washington  and  other  buildings  of  the 
Zone,  so  that  the  stranger  is  constantly  at  a 
loss  as  to  whether  he  is  on  American  or  Pana- 
manian territory.  But  this  need  cause  little 
concern,  for  in  all  the  instances  cited  the  land 
itself  is  Panamanian  and  it  is  a  very  easy 
matter  for  one  to  determine  whether  he  is  on 
the  Zone  or  in  Panama  merely  by  noticing 
whether  the  police  are  the  white  Zone  officers  or 
the  brown,  yellow  or  black  Panamanian  police- 
men. 

As  there  are  no  hotels  or  stopping  places  in 
Cristobal  and  as  no  one,  save  employees  of  the 
Canal  or  the  United  States  Government  and 
certain  agents  of  steamship  lines,  is  permitted 
to  dwell  in  the  town,  the  traveler  must  of  neces- 
sity go  to  Colon  and  if  he  desires  decent 
accommodations  and  service  he  will  inevitably 
go  to  the  Washington. 

Hence,  as  he  is  driven  by  motor  car  or  by  one 
of  the  ramshackle,  but  really  most  convenient 
and  comfortable,  vehicles,  known  as  ^'Coches" 
or  *'Carimettas"  from  the  dock  to  the  Hotel, 
he  will  see  but  little  of  Cristobal  and  will  get 
a  very  meager  and  usually  discouraging  idea  of 
Colon. 

Colon  really  is  not  a  bad  city  and  there  are 


FKONT  DOOR  TO  THE  ISTHMUS      75 

many  interesting  features  about  it  and  its 
environs.  The  towTi  has  a  rather  peculiar  and 
interesting  history  too,  for  it  is  a  ''new^'  town 
having  been  founded  in  1850  when  the  Panama 
Eailway  was  built  and  its  existence  is  wholly 
due  to  the  railway  and  to  the  Americans. 

When  the  railway  was  first  projected  the  only 
port  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  any  importance  was 
Porto  Bello  and  as  the  railway  engineers 
decided  to  begin  the  road  at  Limon  Bay,  and  as 
there  was  no  towTi  there  for  a  terminus,  a  city 
had  to  be  built  to  suit  the  railway. 

It  is  not  unusual  for  towns  and  cities  to 
spring  up  and  grow  prosperous  along  railway 
routes,  but  I  doubt  if  there  is  another  instance 
on  record  of  a  town  being  created  and  built  in 
order  to  provide  a  starting  point  for  a  railway. 
When  the  engineers  decided  to  build  Colon  the 
site  selected  was  a  small  island, — a  mere 
swampy  jungle  of  dense  mangroves,  thorny 
brush  and  tangled  vines, — and  during  the  work 
of  clearing  and  building,  the  engineers  and  their 
laborers  were  compelled  to  dwell  in  vessels 
moored  in  the  shallow  water  near  by. 

It  was  a  tremendous  undertaking, — a  real 
man's  job — to  transform  this  swampy  islet  into 
a  town.    Upon  the  muddy  shores  great  alliga- 


76   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

tors  basked  in  the  sun,  herons,  egrets  and  water 
fowl  flocked  about  its  stagnant  pools  and  nested 
in  the  mangroves ;  moccasins  and  other  serpents 
lurked  amid  the  gnarled  and  twisted  tree  trunks 
and,  everywhere,  the  malarial  and  yellow-fever 
carrying  mosquitoes  swarmed  in  countless  mil- 
lions. No  one  but  a  ''crazy  Yankee,'*  as  the 
natives  call  us,  would  have  conceived  the  idea 
and  yet,  almost  in  a  night,  the  little,  worthless 
bit  of  mud  became  a  busy  town, — a  town  of 
flimsy  wooden  shacks  and  workshops  it  is  time, 
but  a  town  of  several  thousand  inhabitants  and 
with  a  transcontinental  railway  making  it  its 
terminus. 

And  then  came  one  of  the  queerest  and  most 
laughable  incidents  in  the  annals  of  our  history, 
— an  example  of  such  petty  squabbling  and  such 
child-like  retaliation  between  two  governments 
as  to  seem  incredible  and  merely  a  bit  of  comic 
opera.  To  perpetuate  the  name  and  fame  of 
Aspinwall,  who  fathered  the  railway,  the  Amer- 
icans christened  the  new  town  Aspinwall  while, 
to  keep  green  the  name  of  the  great  discoverer 
and  not  because  they  put  coal  on  the  ships  here, 
the  Colombians  called  it  Colon,  and  as  neither 
government  would  give  in,  a  deadlock  resulted. 

To  Americans  there  was  no  such  town  as 


FRONT  DOOR  TO  THE  ISTJIMUS      77 

Colon  and  equally,  to  the  Colombians,  the  town 
of  Aspinwall  was  non-existent.  Then  the  United 
States  Government  decided  on  drastic  measures 
and  refused  to  accept  or  deliver  mail  ad- 
dressed to  Colon,  claiming  that  no  such  city  or 
to\^ni  was  on  the  map,  and  Colombia,  not  to  be 
outdone,  refused  to  deliver  mail  received  at  the 
Post  Office  and  addressed  to  Aspinwall;  but 
promptly  returned  it  to  its  senders. 

It  was  the  old  childish  ''you  can't  play  in  my 
yard"  carried  on  by  the  two  nations  until,  at 
last, — possession  being  nine  points  of  the  law 
and  Colombia  holding  the  odds, — our  Govern- 
ment gave  in;  the  name  of  Aspinwall  was 
dropped  and  Colon  it  has  been  ever  since. 

Colon  of  to-day  is  a  very  different  city  from 
the  Colon  of  the  early  railway  building  days,  or 
even  of  the  French  days  or  the  period  of  build- 
ing the  Canal.  Then  it  was  a  sordid,  disease- 
ridden,  filthy  town;  a  resort  of  the  worst  and 
toughest  men  and  equally  bad  women  of  all  na- 
tions. A  to\\Ti  of  unspeakable  crimes  and  ini- 
quitous dens;  of  gambling  places  and  saloons; 
of  disreputable  houses  and  dance  halls  where 
rowdyism  and  licentiousness  held  full  sway; 
where  robbery  and  murder  were  of  hourly  oc- 
currence and  where  every  man  carried  the  law 


78  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

in  his  hip  pocket  or  his  belt.  Time  and  again 
the  flimsy,  wooden  tovm  has  been  swept  by  fire, 
— which  was  a  blessing, — and  each  time  it  has 
been  rebuilt  in  the  same  flimsy  manner  with  its 
rickety,  wooden,  negro  tenements  packed  close 
together, — a  veritable  fire  trap  and  a  tempta- 
tion to  the  flames, — until  the  last  conflagration, 
since  when  a  number  of  excellent  concrete  build- 
ings have  been  erected  and  no  new  wooden 
edifices  are  allowed. 

And  gradually  the  town  has  changed  in  char- 
acter and  in  reputation.  With  the  completion 
of  the  railway,  and  later  with  the  finishing  of 
the  Canal,  the  rough,  tough  element  has  drifted 
away;  the  soldiers  of  fortune,  the  professional 
gamblers,  the  thugs  and  the  bad  men  have  been 
killed  off  or  have  moved  to  better  fields  for 
their  talents.  The  town  has  been  cleaned  and 
sanitized  by  the  Americans;  its  streets  have 
been  paved;  law  and  order  have  been  enforced; 
it  is  policed  with  the  Panamanians  as  well  as 
by  the  Military  Police  and  Naval  Patrols  of 
Uncle  Sam;  the  gambling  dens,  or  at  least  the 
visible  ones,  have  been  closed  up  and  while  there 
is  vice  aplenty  within  its  confines, — as  there 
must  be  wherever  there  is  a  floating  population 
of  sailors,  soldiers  and  bluejackets, — yet  it  can 


FRONT  DOOR  TO  THE  ISTHMUS      79 

no  longer  claim  to  be  the  '*  wickedest  city  in 
America."  Life  and  property  are  as  safe,  or 
safer,  than  in  any  North  American  town  of  its 
size,  its  wickedness  is  kept  well  in  the  back- 
ground in  a  restricted  district  and  its  death 
rate  is  lower  than  in  many  of  our  own  cities. 

Colon  being  a  modern  town  has  nothing  of 
historic  interest  and  there  are  very  few  note- 
worthy buildings.  Even  these,  such  as  the  Mu- 
nicipal Building,  the  Masonic  Building  and  one 
or  two  others  are  so  surrounded  by  the  miser- 
able, flimsy,  wooden  tenements  and  small  negro 
shops  that  they  appear  to  great  disadvantage. 
There  is  a  pretty  Plaza  or  park  known  as  Silf  er 
Park,  extending  for  several  blocks,  there  are 
two  fairly  good  motion  picture  theaters,  a 
number  of  cabarets,  a  superabundance  of 
saloons,  and  shops  innumerable.  Indeed,  the 
stranger  wonders  how  so  many  stores  can  sur- 
vive in  a  town  of  Colon's  size,  for  it  seems  as  if 
there  must  be  a  shop  for  every  man,  woman  and 
child  in  the  city. 

The  city  is  laid  out  in  regular  squares  with 
the  streets  running  from  the  railway,  and 
approximately  east  and  west,  numbered,  and 
with  the  streets  running  from  north  to  south 
named  and  lettered.    Unfortunately,  there  arc 


80  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

no  signs  or  labels  on  the  streets,  so  that  the 
stranger  never  can  tell  where  he  is  until  he 
stops  and  counts  the  streets.  Moreover,  there 
is  a  deal  of  confusion  owing  to  the  fact 
that  the  Panamanians  have  their  own  Spanish 
names  for  the  thoroughfares ;  but  recently,  the 
mayor  has  announced  that  the  streets  are  all  to 
be  labelled  with  their  American  names  and 
numbers. 

Nearest  to  the  railway  track,  and  running 
parallel  to  it,  is  Front  Street  which  is  the  street 
most  familiar  to  all  visitors  and,  in  fact,  one  may 
obtain  a  very  good  idea  of  Colon,  of  its  inhab- 
itants and  of  the  contents  of  its  stores  by  con- 
fining oneself  to  this  street. 

It  is  here  that  we  find  the  numerous  Oriental 
shops  filled  with  Chinese,  Japanese  and  East 
Indian  goods,  native  curios  and  souvenirs.  In 
these  shops,  kept  by  Hindus  and  Chinese,  you 
may  obtain  wonderful  silks,  kimonos,  canned 
ivories,  jades,  embroideries,  etc.,  and,  if  you 
know  the  ropes,  you  can  obtain  them  at  bargain 
prices.  But  to  do  this  you  must  be  prepared 
to  haggle,  browbeat  and  bicker,  for  the  oily- 
tongued,  meek-eyed  Hindu  and  the  bland, 
almond-eyed  Chinaman  are  very  sharp,  shrewd 


RAILWAY    STATION    AND    FIREMEN'S    MONUMENT 
■  PANAMA   CITY 


SEVENTH  STREET,  COLON,  FROM  STRANGERS  CLUB 


FRONT  DOOR  TO  THE  ISTHMUS      81 

business  men  and  keen  judges  of  human  nature 
and  they  can  tell  at  a  glance  whether  you  are 
a  stranger  to  be  fleeced  or  a  resident  familiar 
"with  their  ways  and  means,  and  with  a  knowl- 
edge of  what  their  goods  are  really  worth. 
Although  you  may  beat  them  down  to  one  half 
the  price  they  ask  or  even  less,  still  you  will  find 
there  is  a  limit  below  which  they  will  not  go  and 
if  you  wander  from  shop  to  shop  endeavoring  to 
get  a  better  bargain  you  will  discover  that  the 
same  figure  marks  the  low-water  price  in  every 
shop  for,  despite  their  protestations  of  indepen- 
dence and  of  competition,  the  Hindus  and 
Chinese  each  have  their  owti  ''trust"  or  society 
by  which  the  rock  bottom  price  for  every  article 
is  fixed  and  agreed  upon. 

Here  on  Front  Street  too,  are  the  principal 
book  stores,  the  largest  of  the  department 
stores,  the  only  respectable  cabarets  and  the 
Panama  hat  stores  with  a  goodly  sprinkling  of 
shops  of  various  kinds.  As  in  the  case  of  the 
Oriental  stores,  the  sellers  of  Panama  hats, — 
which  are  not  made  in  Panama  but  in  Colom- 
bia, Peru  and  Ecuador, — will  charge  the 
stranger  two  or  three  times  w^hat  the  hats  are 
really  worth  and  all  but  a  few  of  them  will 


82   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PKESENT 

endeavor  to  palm  off  inferior  Colombian  or 
Peruvian  hats  for  the  genuine  Panamas  frctoi 
the  Monte  Cristi  district  of  Ecuador. 

While  it  is  a  very  simple  matter  to  distin- 
guish a  genuine  Ecuador  hat  from  the  Colom- 
bian or  Peruvian  articles, — owing  to  the  fact 
that  the  Ecuadoreans  start  their  hats  with  a  cir- 
cular weave  in  the  center  of  the  cro^vn,  whereas 
the  others  start  theirs  with  a  square  or  squarish 
weave, — yet  there  are  so  many  details  upon 
which  the  value  of  a  hat  depends  that  it  is  un- 
wise for  the  novice  to  purchase  an  expensive 
hat  unless  accompanied  by  some  one  who  is  a 
judge  of  Panamas. 

The  stranger  also  should  be  careful  to  ask  if 
the  prices  quoted  are  ** silver"  or  **gold,"  the 
former  being  the  price  in  Panamanian  "pesos," 
equivalent  to  fifty  cents  of  our  money,  while  the 
*'gold"  price  means  in  United  States  currency. 
Ofttimes  the  store  keeper  will  quote  a  silver 
price  in  hopes  that  the  stranger  will  pay  the 
amount  in  dollars,  and  you  may  be  quite  sure 
that  the  smaller  shop  keepers  will  not  disillu- 
sionize you  if  you  make  this  mistake.  Formerly 
every  shop  and  store  quoted  both  the  gold  and 
silver  prices,  but  since  the  Panamanian  cur- 


FRONT  DOOR  TO  THE  ISTHMUS      83 

rency,  (with  the  exception  of  a  few  two-and-one- 
half  and  five  cent  pieces)  has  been  withdrawn 
from  circulation,  all  the  T3etter  shops  quote 
gold  prices  only. 

Back  of  Front  Street  is  Bottle  Alley,  or  as  it 
is  now  called,  Market  Street,  a  narrow  thorough- 
fare with  two  or  three  blocks  of  its  length  so 
given  over  to  cheap  cafes,  cabarets  and  saloons 
as  to  well  merit  its  best  known  name,  while,  be- 
yond, and  extending  through  to  Bolivar  Street 
is  the  big  public  market  which  is  well  worth  a 
visit  on  one  morning  at  least. 

Bolivar  Street  is  without  doubt  the  best  of 
all  thoroughfares  in  Colon  for  it  is  wide,  well 
paved  and  straight  and  is  bordered  by  more 
substantial  buildings  than  any  other  street  in 
the  city.  Unfortunately,  however,  these  good 
buildings  are  sandwiched  in  between  eyesores 
of  wooden  tenements  and  tiny,  malodorous 
holes  in  the  wall  where  repulsive-looking  viands, 
cheap  fruits,  cane  juice  and  charcoal  are  sold  to 
the  poorer  classes  of  negroes,  while  slatternly 
negresses  lean  over  the  rails  of  the  tiers  of  ten- 
ement balconies  or  bend  over  washtubs  in  alley- 
ways reeking  of  suds,  and  naked  children  scam- 
per about  or  play  in  the  gutters. 


84  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Indeed,  this  odd  juxtaposition  of  the  best  and 
the  worst,  of  the  well-to-do  and  the  pauper,  of 
rickety,  many-storied  negro  tenements  and  sub- 
stantial, concrete,  commercial  buildings,  is  one 
of  the  most  striking  features  of  Colon. 

Driving  to  the  Washington,  with  its  lovely 
grounds  and  impressive  appearance,  one  passes 
through  a  section  which  is  devoted  solely  to  the 
negroes  and  the  stranger  feels  that  he  must  be 
in  a  black  republic;  but  neither  Colon  nor  the 
country  should  be  judged  too  hastily  by  what 
one  sees  during  the  first  few  hours  or  days  of 
one's  stay  in  Panama. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  Colon  was  built 
for  the  railway  and  owes  its  existence  to  that 
and  the  canal  and  that  a  very  large  portion  of 
its  population  consists  of  the  negro  laborers 
and  their  families,  and  these  dwell  mainly  along 
the  streets  that  the  casual  visitor  most  fre- 
quently sees.  But  there  are  many  well-to-do 
persons  dwelling  in  Colon,  many  Europeans 
and  American-s,  as  well  as  Panamanians,  Chi- 
nese and  scores  of  other  races  and,  on  the  back 
streets  bordering  the  new  suburb  of  Santurce, 
are  many  attractive  homes  with  well-kept 
grounds  and  gardens. 


FRONT  DOOR  TO  THE  ISTHMUS      85 

Santurce  itself  is  very  new,  having  been  built 
within  the  past  two  years  on  made  land  which 
was  once  mud  flats  and  it  is  rapidly  being  built 
up. 

Adjoining  it,  and  extending  to  pretty  Man- 
zanillo  Bay,  is  New  Cristobal,  also  on  new-made 
land,  and  there  is  no  pleasanter  drive  about  Co- 
lon than  that  from  the  Hotel  Washington, 
around  the  shore  and  through  New  Cristobal 
vdth  Coco  Solo,  Fort  Randolph  and  France 
Field  across  the  blue  bay  and  with  the  soft, 
hazy-blue  mountains  in  the  distant  background. 
For  those  fond  of  sea  bathing  the  beach  at  New 
Cristobal  will  prove  a  most  delightful  spot. 
The  water  is  clear  as  ciystal  and  caressingly 
warm,  mth  a  white,  sandy  bottom  and  with  such 
a  gradual  slope  that  one  may  walk  out  for 
nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  without  being  beyond 
one's  depth. 

Far  more  attractive  and  interesting  than  Co- 
lon is  the  Canal  Zone  town  of  Cristobal  with  its 
palm-shaded,  asphalt  drives,  its  Clubhouse,  its 
Commissary  Restaurant  and  its  many  fine  build- 
ings. Crossing  the  railway  tracks  from  Colon, 
one  seems  to  enter  another  country,  for  here 
life  is  typically  American.  While  Colon  is 
really  more  of  an  American  than  a  Spanish  town 


86   PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

in  many  ways,  and  while  the  English  language 
is  spoken  by  practically  every  one,  yet  the  peo- 
ple and  their  life  and  customs  are  distinctly 
foreign. 

Here  in  Cristobal  however,  we  find  an  old 
friend  in  the  shape  of  a  fire  engine  house  with 
its  spick  and  span  motor-driven  truck,  chemical, 
hose-wagon  and  engine  and  with  fire  laddies  in 
famihar  blue  shirts  and  uniforms  seated  in  the 
same  famihar  way  in  the  same  old  chairs  and 
gossiping  in  the  same  old  manner  as  in  any  town 
in  the  States.  Here  too,  is  the  Post  Office; 
opposite  it  are  the  magnificent  buildings  of  the 
Royal  Mail,  Dutch,  French  and  Italian  steam- 
ship lines  wth  the  immense  Terminal  Building 
and  Panama  Railway  offices  beyond. 

A  few  rods  from  the  Post  Office,  is  the  Com- 
missary Restaurant  where  the  best  of  food  may 
be  obtained  at  prices  about  one  third  those 
charged  at  the  hotels.  Many  visitors  to  the  Isth- 
mus have  the  impression  that  these  Commissary 
Restaurants,  (there  are  others  at  Ancon,  Bal- 
boa, Gatun  and  Pedro  Miguel)  are  solely  for 
the  benefit  of  Canal  Zone  employees,  as  are  the 
Commissaries;  but  this  is  a  great  mistake  for 
anyone  may  patronize  the  restaurants,  although 
outsiders  or  non-employees  are  charged  twenty 


FRONT  DOOR  TO  THE  ISTHMUS   87 

cents  in  addition  to  their  bill.  Opposite  the 
restaurant  is  the  Canal  Zone  clubhouse,  which 
is  also  open  to  strangers,  and  where  one  may 
purchase  cigars,  cigarettes,  souvenirs,  ice  cream 
and  sodas  and  where  there  are  billiard  and  pool 
tables,  bowling  alleys  and  files  of  all  the  latest 
magazines  and  newspapers. 

Still  further  along  is  the  Army  and  Navy 
"Y"  where  the  public  is  also  welcomed,  and 
everywhere,  are  the  green  and  white,  thoroughly 
screened,  neatly  kept  quarters  of  the  Zone  em- 
ployees, and  the  visitor  begins  to  think  that  to 
be  an  employee  of  the  Canal  Zone  must  be  an 
ideal  life. 

And  in  a  way  this  is  true,  for  the  Canal  Zone 
employee  has  many  perquisites  and  advantages 
w^hich  are  to  be  had  nowhere  else  in  the  world. 
Nearly  everything  is  done  for  him,  much  of  it 
free  of  charge  and  all  he  or  she  actually  is 
obliged  to  pay  for  are  clothes,  food  and  amuse- 
ments. The  quarters  are  free,  water,  light,  fuel, 
transportation,  furnishings  and  repairs  to 
homes  and  furniture  cost  nothing  and  motion 
pictures,  held  in  the  Zone  Clubhouses,  have  the 
admission  reduced  to  the  minimum.  At  the 
Commissaries,  the  employees  can  purchase  food, 
clothes,    supplies,    hardware    and    practically 


88  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

everything  they  may  require  at  practically  cost 
prices  in  the  States,  and  often  below  the  prices 
charged  for  the  same  goods  at  home.  If  the 
lawn  needs  mowing  or  a  screen  door  or  window 
shade  requires  attention  the  Quartermaster's 
office  is  called  by  phone  and  the  matter  is 
promptly  attended  to  without  charge.  Even 
garages  are  supplied  to  employees  who  have 
cars  and  the  problems  of  the  housekeeper  are 
reduced  to  the  minimum  and  are  almost  elimi- 
nated. 

Still,  life  as  an  employee  is  not  all  ''beer  and 
skittles."  The  Zone  is,  in  a  way,  an  absolute 
despotism  with  the  Grovernor  supreme  and  the 
employee  scarcely  has  a  will  of  his  own  or  the 
right  to  live  or  think  as  he  chooses.  He  may  be 
discharged  at  a  moment's  notice;  he  may  be  de- 
ported at  the  will  of  the  Governor ;  he  must  live 
where  he  is  told  and  as  the  regulations  require 
and  he  has  no  say  as  to  the  laws  made  or  en- 
forced; no  vote  as  to  who  is  appointed  to  rule 
over  him;  no  redress,  no  come  back.  As  long 
as  he  is  an  employee  he  is  little  more  than  an 
automaton, — a  cog  in  a  hugh  wheel,  a  bit  of  the 
well-oiled,  smooth-working  machinery  of  the 
Canal. 

On  the  other  hand,  from  the  point  of  view  of 


FRONT  DOOR  TO  THE  ISTHMUS   89 

such  an  enormous  organization  as  the  Canal 
Zone  with  twenty  thousand  and  more  employees, 
strict  laws  and  rigid  rules  are  essential.  To 
function  at  all  such  an  undertaking  must  be 
carried  on  along  almost  military  lines  and  indi- 
vidual liberty  must,  to  a  certain  extent,  be  sac- 
rificed for  the  sake  of  the  whole.  Moreover,  it 
obviously  would  be  impossible  to  make  excep- 
tions, to  give  heed  to  personal  and  petty  com- 
plaints; to  make  concessions  to  one  and  not  to 
another  and  all  must  be  treated  exactly  alike. 
A  big  corporation  is  not  supposed  to  have  a  soul 
or  to  possess  sentiment  and  the  Panama  Canal 
and  its  thousand  and  one  attendant  businesses 
and  ramifications  is  a  most  gigantic  corporation. 
No  doubt  many  injustices  are  done;  beyond 
question  many  faults  could  be  found  and  many 
troubles  remedied;  most  assuredly  vast  im- 
provements could  be  made  and  unfair  rules  abol- 
ished; but  on  the  whole,  the  Canal  Employee  is 
mighty  well  off  and  seldom  realizes  how  fortu- 
nate he  is  until  he  is  obliged  to  get  a  job  else- 
where, for  after  all  the  Canal  Zone  government 
is  the  rarest  of  rare  institutions, — a  beneficent 
despotism. 


CHAPTER  VI 

EOUND  AND  ABOUT  COLON" 

Scenes  along  the  roads.  Advantages  of  Atlantic  side. 
Roads  about  Colon.  The  road  to  Gatun.  Road  to  Fort 
Randolph.  Gatun  and  the  Chagres.  Fort  San  Lorenzo. 
Porto  Bello. 

In  many  ways  the  Atlantic  terminus  of  the 
Canal  is  preferable  to  the  Pacific  side  and,  as  a 
rule,  visitors,  after  they  have  visited  both  and 
have  seen  the  sights,  decide  upon  Colon  as  a 
place  of  residence  if  they  remain  long  on  the 
Isthmus. 

To  be  sure,  there  is  much  more  of  interest  and 
much  more  of  the  quaint  and  foreign  atmos- 
phere at  Panama  City ;  but  the  climate  of  Colon 
is  better,  the  Hotel  is  superior  and,  for  those 
fond  of  out-of-door  sports,  Colon  is  more 
convenient. 

But  in  one  respect  the  Atlantic  side  cannot 
compete  with  the  Pacific  and  that  is  the  roads. 
Even  at  Panama  the  extent  and  diversity  of 
good  roads  are  limited,  but  at  Colon,  the  visitor 
has  only  a  single  motor  road  leading  out  of  the 

90 


ROUND  AND  ABOUT  COLON   91 

city  and  this  only  a  few  miles  in  length.  How- 
ever, it  is  so  smooth  and  well  kept  and  so  inter- 
esting that  no  visitor  should  fail  to  go  over  it 
at  least  once. 

This  road,  which  is  really  an  extension  of 
Bolivar  Street,  leads  to  Gatun,  while  a  branch 
extends  to  Fort  Randolph.  From  the  time  one 
leaves  the  center  of  the  city  behind  there  is  ever 
something  of  interest  to  be  seen  along  this  drive. 

Just  beyond  the  Commissary  Restaurant,  are 
the  buildings  of  the  supply  department  of  the 
Canal  Zone  and  a  little  farther  on,  the  Silver 
Clubhouse,  or  Clubhouse  for  the  colored  em- 
ployees of  the  Zone  for,  in  Canal  parlance, 
all  Zone  workers  are  di^^ded  into  two  classes, 
— gold  and  silver, — the  gold  employees  being 
the  whites  and  the  silver  employees  the  col- 
ored. 

The  road  then  passes  through  Silver  City,  as 
the  district  given  over  to  the  quarters  of  the 
silver  employees  is  called.  Then  the  ball  field 
is  passed  on  the  left  of  the  road,  with  the 
Cristobal  shops  and  dry  docks  on  the  right. 
The  Canal  Zone  printing  plant  is  just  beyond, 
with  the  Mount  Hope  railway  station  beside  the 
road  and  the  immense  cold  storage  plant  of  the 
Zone  off  to  the  left.    Then  Mount  Hope  Ceme- 


92  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

tery  is  reached  and  the  drive  swings  to  the  left 
around  the  beautifully-kept  filtration  plant  of 
the  Cristobal  water  supply  while,  on  the  sur- 
rounding hills,  are  the  immense  oil  tanks  of  va- 
rious steamship  and  oil  Companies  with  the  oil 
pumping  station  embowered  amid  trees  and 
shrubbery  beside  the  road. 

For  some  distance  beyond  here,  the  road  is 
bordered  by  tropical  verdure  until  it  crosses  Al- 
ligator Creek  and  the  old  French  Canal  route. 
Here  the  road  forks, — the  left-hand  branch  ex- 
tending to  Fort  Randolph  and  the  right  to  Ga- 
tun.  The  latter  road  runs  through  very  pretty 
country  and  affords  an  excellent  idea  of  many 
of  the  more  notable  forms  of  Panamanian 
flora,  with  charming  glimpses  of  the  stream 
mirroring  its  bordering  palms. 

Mindi  Dairy,  with  its  sleek  cattle,  is  passed 
on  the  left  and  soon  afterwards.  Fort  Davis  is 
reached.  This  is  a  new  military  post  and  with 
its  splendid  concrete  barracks,  officers^  quar- 
ters and  other  buildings  is  an  excellent  illustra- 
tion of  the  commodious  and  up  to-date  accommo- 
dations provided  for  our  soldiers  on  the  Zone. 

From  Fort  Davis,  the  way  leads  through  the 
old  military  post  of  Gatun,  and  climbing  rolling 
hills  of  flaming  red  set  off  by  the  intense  green 


ROUND  AND  ABOUT  COLON    93 

of  tropic  vegetation,  enters  the  neat  little  to\vn 
of  Gatun,  crosses  the  railway  bridge  and  ends  at 
the  Gatun  railway  station  beside  the  stupen- 
dous locks. 

If  one  desires,  the  locks  may  be  visited  and 
inspected,  or  a  trip  may  be  taken  to  the  gigantic 
spillway. 

On  the  return  trip,  one  should  follow  the  other 
branch  of  the  road  to  Fort  Randolph.  This 
road  runs  beside  the  railway  and  mostly  across 
flat  land  which  was   formerly  a  vast  swamp. 

Indeed,  much  of  it,  and  especially  the  portion 
on  the  right  of  the  road,  is  still  swamp,  but  it 
is  being  drained  and  reclaimed;  the  stagnant 
water  has  been  covered  mth  crude  oil  to  destroy 
mosquitoes  and  in  a  few  years  it  will  all  be 
made  land. 

France  Field,  the  military  air  station,  Coco 
Solo,  the  naval  submarine  base  and  naval  air 
station,  and  Fort  Randolph  are  all  interesting 
as  examples  of  the  powerful  defense  system  of 
the  Canal,  while  the  view  across  the  bay  to  New 
Cristobal  and  Colon  is  very  attractive. 

Another  interesting  short  trip  is  to  cross  Co- 
lon harbor  by  the  Quartermaster's  steamer 
from  Fort  DeLesseps  pier, — a  few  steps  from 
the  Washington, — to  Fort  Sherman  and  Toro 


94  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PKESENT 

Point.  From  Fort  Sherman  one  may  go  to 
Fort  San  Lorenzo;  but  it  is  far  easier  to  visit 
these  histx)ric  ruins  by  means  of  a  launch  from 
Gatun,  a  trip  that  carries  one  down  the  famous 
Chagres'  and  affords  an  opportunity  for  tar- 
pon fishing  and  a  possible  shot  at  an  alligator 
en  route. 

To  all  visitors  to  the  Isthmus,  who  are  fond 
of  historic  and  romantic  spots,  Fort  San  Lo- 
renzo and  Porto  Bello  will  prove  most  inter- 
esting, for  there  are  few  places  in  Latin  Amer- 
ica so  intimately  associated  with  the  romance 
and  history  of  the  days  when  Don  and  Buc- 
caneer struggled  and  fought  about  the  shores 
of  the  Spanish  Main. 

San  Lorenzo,  once  considered  impregnable 
by  the  Spaniards,  is  still  in  a  very  good  state 
of  preservation  and  as  the  jungle  and  brush 
have  been  cleared  away  the  visitor  may  trace 
all  the  ancient  works. 

Frowning  down  upon  the  shimmering  Chag- 
res, with  its  palm  fringed  shores,  the  ancient 
citadel  seems  dreaming  of  those  far-off  days 
when  Morgan  and  his  rovers  swarmed  up  the 
slopes  and  Spaniard  and  Briton  met  in  mortal 
combat. 

The  once  deep  moat  is  dry  and  partly  filled 


BOUND  AND  ABOUT  COLON    95 

with  brush  and  is  spanned  by  a  single  plank  in 
place  of  drawbridge;  but  the  quaint,  lantern- 
like sentry  boxes  are  as  good  as  in  the  days  of 
the  buccaneers;  the  massive  walls  show  little 
effect  of  the  passing  centuries,  and  many  of  the 
old  guns  still  lie  beside  the  embrasures  from 
which  they  once  belched  forth  their  messages 
of  death.  Standing  here  to-day,  with  the  quiet 
of  the  jungle  about,  the  bright  sun  streaming 
down  and  jewel-eyed  lizards  scuttling  over  the 
ornate  cannon,  it  is  hard  to  believe  that  once 
these  walls  echoed  to  the  roar  of  guns,  the 
clash  of  cutlass  and  halberd,  the  shouts  of  St. 
George  and  St.  Jago  and  the  groans  and 
screams  of  wounded  and  of  dying  men. 

Descending  the  narrow  stone  stairway  one 
comes  to  the  old  parade,  with  great  piles  of 
rusting  round  shot  and  bomb  shells,  while  be- 
yond, are  the  arched  tunnel-like,  underground 
barracks.  Here  too,  is  the  immense  stone  water 
tank  and  in  one  corner  the  dank,  black  dungeons 
wherein  shackles,  leg  irons  and  ponderous  steel 
collars  still  speak  grimly  of  prisoners  w^ho  once 
rotted  within. 

One  may  wander  for  hours  about  the  old 
fortress  and  still  find  new  interests  and,  if  so 
minded,   one   may  dig   among  the   crumbling 


96  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PEESENT 

debris  and  perchance  find  relics  such  as  coins, 
buttons  or  gunflints. 

It  is  all  very  fascinating,  very  romantic  and 
it  carries  one  back  through  the  centuries  to 
stand  within  these  ancient,  battered  walls ;  but, 
truth  to  tell,  very  little  of  the  fortress  of  Mor- 
gan's time  remains.  Since  the  day  when  the 
pirates  took  the  place  and  put  the  garrison  to 
the  sword  without  mercy,  old  San  Lorenzo  has 
been  rebuilt  many  times.  First,  after  Mor- 
gan's departure  when  it  was  regarrisoned  and 
held  its  own  for  many  years;  again  when,  in 
the  wars  of  Independence,  it  was  strengthened 
and  enlarged  and  still  later,  during  the  gold 
rush  to  California  when  the  ancient  citadel 
served  both  as  a  fort  and  as  a  customs  house. 

A  few  of  the  old  Spanish  cannon  of  Morgan's 
days  are  still  here  and  bits  of  the  original  ma- 
sonry are  still  preserved;  but  the  majority  of 
the  guns,  the  shells  and  shot  and  the  masonry  of 
rubble  and  brick  date  from  comparatively  re- 
cent years, — probably  from  about  1845, — but 
this  takes  nothing  from  the  historical  int  ;rest 
of  what  was  once  one  of  Spain's  most  impor- 
tant fortifications  in  the  New  World. 

Far  different  from  San  Lorenzo  are  the  ruins 
of  old  Porto  Bello.    To  reach  Porto  Bello  one 


ROUND  AND  ABOUT  COLON    97 

must  travel  from  Colon  by  launch,  but  the  trip 
is  well  worth  while.  Much  of  the  attractiveness 
of  Porto  Bello  is  lost  by  the  huddle  of  miserable 
shanties  and  the  unkempt  streets  of  the  native 
village  which  crowds  the  majestic  old  ruins. 
During  the  construction  of  the  Canal  vast  quan- 
tities of  rock  were  quarried  from  the  hills  about 
Porto  Bello,  to  be  used  in  building  the  break- 
waters, and  the  bare  scars  left  in  the  greenery 
of  the  hillsides,  and  the  remains  of  the  laborers' 
quarters,  the  workshops,  etc.,  seem  out  of  place 
and  jar  upon  one's  imagination  as  one  stands 
here  in  the  old  castle  that  once  guarded  the 
famed  Gold  Road  and  defied  the  powers  of  the 
world,  but  fell  to  the  reckless  buccaneers. 

The  ruins,  as  a  whole,  are  in  a  good  state  of 
preservation  and  one  may  trace  the  foundations 
of  the  old  town,  the  quarters  and  many  build- 
ings which  have  disappeared,  although  Fort 
San  Jerome,  the  chapel,  the  barracks,  the  com- 
mandant's house  and  several  other  buildings 
still  stand, — solidly  built  of  stone  and  nearly 
as  strong  as  in  the  days  of  Drake  and  Morgan. 

But  the  glory  of  Porto  Bello  has  departed. 
Once  the  richest  of  cities  in  the  New  World, 
with  countless  fortunes  in  gold,  silver  and  pre- 
cious stones  stored  within  its  vaults  and  await- 


98  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

ing  shipment  to  Spain,  it  is  now  merely  an  ill- 
kept,  unattractive  village. 

The  old  Gold  Road,  over  which  passed  endless 
trains  of  treasure-laden  mules,  groaning  slaves 
and  mail-clad  Dons,  is  now  overgrown  with  for- 
est and  much  of  it  lost,  hidden  and  buried,  no 
one  knows  where,  within  the  jungle. 

The  splendid  harbor,  that  once  sheltered 
many  a  stately  galleon  and  proud  frigate  of 
Spain,  now  shimmers  in  the  sun  with  only  a 
dingy  fishing  boat  or  native  dugout  to  mar  its 
glassy  surface. 

Where  once  the  gaudy  banners  of  Castile  and 
Leon  snapped  bravely  in  the  trade  wind,  the 
fronds  of  palm  trees  rustle  sleepily  in  the  breeze 
and,  over  the  spot  where  the  bones  of  Drake 
lie  fathoms  deep  beneath  the  waves,  the  frigate 
birds  sail  in  never-ending  circles  on  motion- 
less wings. 

Perchance  the  day  may  yet  come  when  Porto 
Bello  will  once  more  become  a  famous  port; 
great  wharves  and  docks  may  yet  line  its  shores 
and  the  drowsy  village  may  yet  awaken  and  be- 
come a  great  city,  for  the  country  round  about 
is  rich  and  fertile,  its  forests  abound  in  timber 
and  its  hills  hide  stores  of  mineral  wealth,  while 
its  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  Caribbean. 


ROUND  AND  ABOUT  COLON    99 

But  the  chances  are  that  such  prosperity  will 
never  come,  for  the  doom  of  Porto  Bello  was 
spelled  when  Colon  came  into  being  and  the 
Panama  Railway  passed  it  by. 


CHAPTER  VII 

CROSSIITG   THE  BRIDGE   OP   THB   WORLD 

Going  through  the  Canal.  Locking  a  ship  through  Gatun. 
The  Gatun  Dam.  Gatun  Lake.  A  trip  on  Gatun  Lake. 
The  drowned  forest  and  its  life.  Culebra  Cut.  Through 
Pedro  Miguel  locks.  Miraflores  Lake.  Miraflores  Locks. 
First  sight  of  Balboa.  From  Atlantic  to  Pacific.  Crossing 
the  Isthmus  by  train.  Stations  en  route.  Glimpses  of  the 
Canal.  The  Hyacinth  Patrol.  Balboa  and  Ancon.  Ar- 
rival at  Panama.    Across  the  continent  in  two  hours. 

That  any  one  should  visit  Panama  and  not 
cross  the  Isthmus  seems  scarcely  credible ;  nev- 
ertheless, scores  of  persons  annually  land  at 
Colon,  spend  a  few  hours,  or  a  day,  on  the 
Atlantic  side,  and  never  see  Panama  City  or  the 
Pacific. 

And  yet,  in*  nearly  every  way,  Panama  is  a 
far  more  interesting  and  attractive  city  than 
Colon,  the  Zone  towns  of  Ancon  and  Balboa  are 
worth  a  journey  in  themselves  and  the  journey 
across  is  perhaps  the  most  interesting  and  ed- 
ucational trip  which  can  be  taken  in  the  Repub- 
lic. 

There  are  two  ways  of  traveling  from  ocean 
to  ocean,  one  being  by  railway,  the  other  by 

100 


CROSSING  BRIDGE  OF  WORLD    101 

canal.  If  'it  is  humanly  possible  the  \isitor 
should  do  both,  for  the  two  routes  are  totally- 
different  and  no  one  can  truthfully  say  he  has 
seen  the  Zone  until  he  has  traveled  across  the 
Isthmus  both  by  rail  and  by  steamer. 

As  it  is  very  ditlicult  to  go  through  the  canal 
from  Balboa  to  Cristobal  by  steamer  (unless 
one  is  a  passenger  on  some  ship  en  route  from 
Pacific  to  Atlantic  ports)  the  best  plan  is  to  go 
from  Cristobal  to  Balboa  through  the  canal  and 
then  return  to  Colon  by  railway. 

Leaving  the  docks  at  Cristobal,  the  vessel 
steams  slowly  for  several  miles  up  the  entrance 
of  the  canal  with  its  shores  hidden  beneath  a 
mantle  of  dense  jungle.  Here,  blue  and  white 
herons,  flashing  kingfishers  and  various  water- 
fowl rise  from  the  shrubbery  or  flap  from  the 
banks  as  the  steamer  approaches,  while  over- 
head, or  winging  swiftly  from  tree  to  tree,  are 
flocks  of  screeching  parrots.  It  is  really  a 
strange  sensation  to  stand  upon  the  deck  of  a 
big  liner  and  to  gaze  upon  a  sea  of  jungle  topped 
by  palms  and  teeming  with  bright-hued  birds, 
and  it  is  hard  to  believe  that  the  ribbon  of  water 
stretching  through  the  swamp  is  a  man-made 
canal  and  not  some  natural  waterway. 

Presently,  however,  the  jungles  with  their  life 


102  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PEESENT 

are  left  behind,  the  grassy  hills  and  neat  build- 
ings of  Gatun  appear  and  before  us  are  the 
huge  locks  of  Gatun  with  their  three  pairs  of 
chambers  rising,  like  a  flight  of  titanic  steps, 
against  the  sky. 

As  we  approach,  an  immense  arrow  on  the 
end  of  the  central  wall  between  the  two  tiers  of 
chambers,  swings  to  the  right  and  our  ship 
slips  slowly  and  gently  into  the  right  hand 
chamber.  Above  us  on  the  lofty  concrete  walls 
are  tiny,  squat,  electric  locomotives  and  quickly 
lines  are  passed  to  these,  steel  cables  are  paid 
out,  the  electric  ''mules"  as  they  are  called 
move  silently  forward  and  our  great  ship, — 
led  like  some  captive  monster  by  its  fetters, — 
forges  ahead. 

Slowly,  quietly,  but  surely,  it  is  towed  into 
the  chamber  by  two  locomotives  fast  to  bow 
lines  and  with  two  more  holding  back  and  guid- 
ing our  ship  by  stern  lines,  for  no  ship  is  per- 
mitted to  go  through  the  locks  under  its  own 
steam,  the  towing  locomotives  being  so  designed 
that  the  cables  may  be  paid  out  -or  drawn  in  on 
huge  drums,  thus  enabling  theni  to  steer  the 
ship  and  maintain  the  proper  distance  between 
her  sides  and  the  walls. 

Looking  ahead,  we  see  a  stupendous  chain 


CJIO'SSIIS'G  BRIDGE  OF  WORLD    103 

tising,  like  some  dripping,  giant  sea-serpent 
from  the  water,  until  it  stretches  from  wall  to 
wall, — the  guard  chain, — which  w^ould  check 
our  progress  and  save  damaging  the  lock  gates 
in  case  an  accident  happened  and  our  vesael 
got   beyond  control. 

Now  we  hurry  aft  and  looking  back,  see  the 
ponderous  steel  gates  closing  like  giant  jaws 
behind  us.  With  the  slow,  deliberate  motion 
that  conveys  an  idea  of  irresistible  power  the 
two  leaves  of  the  gates  swing  together  with 
never  a  sound ;  we  are  shut  in  the  chamber  and, 
with  the  bubbling  and  swirling  of  the  water  as 
the  valves  are  opened,  our  ship  rises  rapidly 
upward, — or  rather  the  lock  walls  seem  to  be 
sinking, — and,  presently,  our  vessel's  rails  are 
above  the  level  of  the  walls,  the  little  '* mules" 
are  below  instead  of  above  us  and  we  can  look 
forth  across  the  green,  gra^y  slopes  and  neatly 
kept  grounds  about  Gatun.  Then  the  gate^  be- 
fore us  swing  open,  the  guard  chain  drops  down 
and  disappears,  the  electric  mules  again  crawl 
forward, — climbing  the  steep,  rounded  grade 
on  the  walls  like  some  sort  of  gigantic  bugs, — 
and  our  ship  slips  into  the  second  chamber. 
Once  more  we  are  shut  in  between  the  massive 
gates;  once  more  our  ship  rises  upward  to  the 


104  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

second  level ;  again  we  are  towed  into  the  third 
chamber.  Then  the  last  gates  are  opened  and, 
casting  off  the  cables  of  the  mules,  our  ship's 
whistle  sounds  a  defiant  blast,  the  screws  churn 
the  waters  and  we  slip  from  the  locks  into  Ga- 
tun  Lake. 

A  marvelous  example  of  man's  handiwork, 
you  think  the  locks, — an  everlasting  monument 
;to  Yankee  brains  and  perseverance,  and  so 
they  are ;  but  not  one-half  as  interesting  and  no 
more  marvelous  than  this  vast  lake  of  over  100 
square  miles  in  area  which  has  been  formed  by 
man  to  provide  the  water  to  make  the  canal  a 
possibility. 

As  we  passed  through  Gatun  Locks  we  no- 
ticed, to  the  right,  a  smooth,  grassy,  terraced 
ridge  stretching  from  the  lock  walls  to  the  green 
hills  over  a  mile  distant.  To  the  casual  ob- 
server it  seemed  but  a  natural  hill,  but  in  real- 
ity it  was  made  by  man,  for  this  is  the  Gatun 
Dam  which  checked  the  flow  of  the  Chagres  and 
made  the  vast  Gatun  Lake. 

Half  a  mile  wide  at  its  base,  100  feet  in 
width  at  its  summit,  rising  for  105  feet  above 
sea  level  and  nearly  a  mile  and  one-half  in 
length,  Gatun  Dam  is  one  of  the  largest  dams 
in"  the  world  and  is  the  largest  single  piece  of 


THE   DROWNED  FOREST  GATUN   LAKE 


A  STREET  IN  PANAMA  CITY 


CROSSING  BRIDGE  OF  WORLD    105 

construction  work  on  the  canal,  containing  as 
it  does,  over  21,000,000  cubic  yards  of  material. 

And  in  building  this  immense  dam  and  form- 
ing the  lake  mai*velous  changes  took  place  in 
the  surrounding  country.  Rich  valleys,  where- 
in were  native  villages  with  well-tilled  fields, 
now  lie  fathoms  deep  beneath  the  placid  water; 
thousands  of  acres  of  grazing  land,  once  dotted 
mth  cattle,  are  now  but  the  muddy  bottom  of 
the  lake;  hills  and  mountains  that  once  reared 
their  wooded  sides  above  the  plains  have  been 
transformed  into  islands  and,  everywhere 
above  the  surface,  rise  the  bleached  and  black- 
ened skeletons  of  mighty  trees, — the  forlorn 
remnants  of  the  drowmed  forests. 

The  route  followed  by  the  steamer  through 
the  canal  gives  the  traveler  only  a  few  far-away 
glimpses  of  all  this,  however,  and  to  really  see 
the  lake  you  should  take  the  train  to  Monte 
Lirio,  board  the  launch  that  meets  each  train 
there,  take  the  trip  to  the  little  Panamanian  vil- 
lage of  Limon  across  the  lake  and  there  employ 
a  native  to  take  you  in  his  dugout  or  **ca}Tica" 
for  a  paddle  through  this  unique  forest. 

At  first  the  trees  seem  to  be  all  alike, — a  veri- 
table labyrinth  of  dead,  gaunt  trees  almost  pa- 
thetic in  their  nakedness, — and  one  marvels  that 


106  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

the  boatmen  ever  can  find  their  way  about. 
Gradually,  however,  one  notes  that  no  two  trees 
are  just  alike,  there  is  an  individuality  about 
them,  and  many  are  of  weird,  grotesque  forms 
resembling  strange  birds  or  prehistoric  mon- 
sters. So  too,  some  are  bare  of  any  trace  of 
vegetation;  others  are  bravely  striving  to  re- 
cover and  are  sending  out  tiny  shoots  and  deli- 
cate leaves ;  others  are  decked  with  strange  air 
plants  or  glorious  orchids,  while  still  others 
are  so  hung  with  trailing  vines,  parasitic  plants 
and  immense  drooping  ferns  and  grasses  as  to 
appear  ahve  and  covered  with  foliage. 

Among  them,  and  almost  choking  the  water- 
ways between  the  trunks,  are  floating  islands, — 
masses  of  grasses,  ferns,  orchids  and  gorgeous 
lilies, — which  have  found  a  roothold  on  fallen 
trees  and  provide  a  floating,  ever-shifting  ref- 
uge for  many  kinds  of  water  fowl.  In  time 
these  floating  islets  become  fast  lodged  among 
the  trees  or  snags,  or  gather  in  slack  water,  and 
growing  together,  form  real  islands,  solid  un- 
derfoot and  supporting  good-sized  trees  and 
palms. 

Altogether  it  is  a  strange,  almost  uncanny, 
interesting  spot  and  the  bird  and  animal  life  is 
almost  ds  interesting  as  the  lake  itself.    Great 


CROSSING  BRIDGE  OF  WORLD    107 

flocks  of  cormorants  roost  upon  thje  dead  trees 
and  stare  impudently  at  the  intruders.  Peli- 
cans flap  lazily  away  at  one's  approach.  Wliite 
and  blue  and  green  herons  stalk  about  the  edges 
of  the  islands.  Shimmering  blue  swallows  twit- 
ter and  chirp  and  wheel  about  and  kingfishers 
of  metallic  green  or  purple  dash,  with  hoarse, 
rattling  cries,  after  passing  fish.  Soft  gray 
gulls  cry  querulously  above  one's  head.  Ja- 
canas  run  nimbly  over  the  water  weeds  and  lily 
pads.  Emerald-hued  paroquets  screech  and 
quarrel  about  their  nest  holes  in  the  dead  tree 
trunks  and  gaudy  tanagers,  trogans  and  finches 
feed  among  the  air  plants  and  orchid  blooms. 

Perchance  too,  one  may  catch  a  glimpse  of  a 
great,  clumsy  manatee  as  he  rises  to  blow  with 
a  low,  bull-like  bellow  or  one  may  see  scaly,  dull- 
eyed  alligators  dozing  on  floating  logs. 

And  if  one  cares  to  hunt  by  all  means  land  on 
one  of  the  wooded  islands  which  were  once  hill- 
tops. As  the  waters  rose  and  flooded  the  for- 
ests the  wild  creatures  sought  the  higher  ground 
until,  at  last,  they  were  crowded  and  herded  to- 
gether on  the  hills  where,  isolated  by  the  lake, 
they  remained,  with  the  result  that  many  of  the 
present  islands  fairly  swarm  with  game.  Here 
the  hunter  finds  the  native  deer;  the  wild  hogs 


108  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

or  peccaries;  the  howling  baboons;  the  tapir; 
the  paca  or,  as  the  natives  call  it,  *'conejo'^;  the 
agouti;  the  ocelot;  a  dozen  kinds  of  wild  cats 
and  even  the  surly  cougar  and  his  lordly  cousin, 
the  jaguar. 

In  order  to  secure  good  sport,  however,  one 
must  have  dogs  and  must  visit  the  more  remote 
islands  or  the  lake  shores,  for  the  country  close 
to  the  canal  and  the  railway  has  been  hunted 
over  until  game  is  very  scarce  and  shy. 

But  let  us  return  from  our  little  excursion  on 
the  lake  and  resume  our  journey  through  the 
canal  itself.  For  some  distance  beyond  Gatun 
little  of  interest  is  to  be  seen,  for  there  is  noth- 
ing to  indicate  that  our  ship  is  not  steaming 
across  a  natural  lake.  But  soon  the  lake  nar- 
rows, we  come  within  sight  of  the  railway  and, 
presently,  we  pass  the  bridge  and  the  pumping 
station  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chagres  and  enter  a 
waterway  so  straight  and  narrow  that  it  is  un- 
mistakably a  canal,  and,  as  the  ship  moves  at 
a  snail's  pace  to  avoid  washing  the  banks,  we 
approach  the  famous  Culebra  or  Gaillard  Cut. 

On  either  hand  the  banks  rise  higher  and 
higher,  here  and  there  lovely  cascades  tumble 
noisily  into  the  canal,  and  soon  our  ship  seems 
dwarfed  to  insignificance  as  we  enter  the  stu- 


CROSSING  BRIDGE  OF  WORLD    109 

pendous  cut  through  Gold  Hill,  where  the 
mighty  steam  shovels  roared  and  snorted  and 
tore  their  way  through  the  mountain  to  form  a 
cut  495  feet  in  depth,  the  deepest  excavation  on 
the  canal. 

Here  too,  is  where  the  greatest  and  indeed 
the  only  serious  trouble  has  been  encountered, 
in  the  form  of  slides  from  the  enclosing  hills, 
and  while  the  slides  are  constantly  becoming 
fewer  and  are  decreasing  in  size,  and  although 
a  force  of  dredges  is  constantly  at  work  keeping 
the  channel  clear,  yet  traffic  now  and  again  is 
interrupted  by  immense  masses  of  rock  and 
gr'avel  sliding  into  the  canal. 

Swinging  around  the  curve  between  the  glar- 
ing red  and  orange  sides  of  this  marvelous  cut, 
our  ship  passes  the  little  town  of  Paraiso  and 
charmingly  situated  Pedro  Miguel  and  enters 
the  Pedro  Miguel  locks. 

Lowered  do^^^l  the  single  lock  by  the  same 
process  as  at  Gatun,  but  reversed,  the  ship 
steams  across  Miraflores  Lake,  enters  Mira- 
flores  locks,  is  lowered  down  through  two  cham- 
bers and  steams  forth  from  the  last  into  the 
waters  of  the  Pacific. 

Ahead  are  the  piers  and  buildings,  the  masts 
and  funnels,  the  great  shops  and  the  old  coaling 


110    PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PKESENT 

station  of  Balboa;  beyond  gleams  the  broad 
Pacific;  to  the  left  Ancon  Hill  rears  its  sharp 
crest  against  the  azure  sky  with  the  immense 
Ancon  Hospital  and  numerous  residences  half 
hidden  in  the  greenery  upon  its  slopes  while, 
nearer  at  hand,  the  snowy  Administration 
Building  stands  glaringly  upon  its  truncated 
pyramidal,  grass-covered  hill  looking  more  like 
some  vast  mausoleum,  erected  to  the  memory  of 
the  thousands  who  gave  their  lives  to  connect- 
ing the  oceans,  rather  than  like  a  busy,  matter 
of  fact  and  unromantic  office  building. 

Very  different  is  the  journey  across  the  Isth- 
mus by  railway.  Leaving  Colon  the  way  leads 
along  Front  Street,  past  the  various  buildings 
of  Cristobal,  past  Mount  Hope  and  its  pumping 
station  and  plunges  into  a  wide  swamp, — partly 
drained  to  be.  sure, — but  still  a-  waste  of  low 
bush,  of  great  stretches  of  mud  and  of  shallow 
pools  where  scores  of  herons  and  waders  may 
be  seen.  Gradually  the  swatop  gives  way  to 
drier  land  and,  presently,  the  train  draws  up  at 
Fort  Davis,  a  White,,  concrete  station,  standing 
boldly  forth  in  a  waste  of  raw  red  earth,  with 
the  barracks  and  buildings  of  the  big  army 
post  beyond  and  hundreds  of  khaki  clad 
soldiers  about. 


CROSSING  BRIDGE  OF  WORLD    111 

Bare,  hot  and  glaring  is  the  freshly  turned 
earth  and  newly  cleared  land  to-day;  but,  in 
a  year  or  two,  all  will  be  lusciously  green ;  neat 
lawns  and  flower  gardens  will  hide  the  scarlet 
scars  of  pick  and  shovel  and  graceful  palms 
and  spreading  trees  will  line  the  blazing  road- 
ways. 

A  little  farther  on,  the  train  again  stops  at 
Gatun,  with  the  immense  locks  close  at  hand, 
with  the  titanic  dam  stretching  in  a  vast  curve  to 
the  hills  across  the  canal  and  with,  perchance, 
a  steamer  or  two  being  locked  through.  Here, 
also,  is  the  headquarters  of  the  lake  patrol  and 
the  Ughthouse  department  and  always  there  is 
a  little  fleet  of  steamers,  launches  and  tugs  at 
the  docks  beside  the  tracks,  while,  now  and 
then,  one  may  see  one  of  the  queer,  house-boat- 
like vessels  of  the  hyacinth  patrol. 

As  the  meaning  of  hyacinth  patrol  may  prove 
a  puzzle  to  many  it  may  be  well  to  explain  that 
one  of  the  greatest  menaces  of  the  canal  is  that 
lovely,  sweet-scented,  floating  plant  known  as 
the  water  hyacinth  and  to  destroy  these  plants 
and  keep  them  under  control  a  force  of  men  and 
boats  are  constantly  at  work.  Later,  when  you 
cross  the  Chagres,  you  may  see  them, — raking 
and  gathering  the  hyacinths  into  huge  masses 


112  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

back  of  log  booms  where  they  are  sprayed  with 
chemicals  to  destroy  them. 

Beyond  Gatun,  the  train  dashes  through  jun- 
gle, crosses  causeways  over  arms  of  the  lake, 
rushes  along  the  shore  with  the  drowned  forest 
stretching  away  as.  far  as  eye  can  see  a,nd  stops 
for  a  moment  at  little  Monte  Lino  station. 
Another  short  run,  with  the  lake  and  its  skele- 
ton trees  ever  in  sight,  and  Frijoles  is  reached. 
Then,  passing  through  hilly  pastures  where  the 
Canal  Commissary  is  endeavoring  to  rear  cattle 
in  numbers  sufficient  to  supply  the  Zone,  and 
with  charming  vistas  of  jungle-filled  valleys  and 
forested  mountains  in  the  dist-ance,  the  train 
draws  up  at  the  wireless  station  of  Darien  with 
its  twin  towers  piercing  the  sky. 

Very  pretty  is'  this  spot  with  its  ornamental 
flower,  beds,  its  flaming  hibiscus  hedges  and  its 
lawns  making  it  appear  more  like  private 
grounds  than  a  naval  wireless  station.  Be- 
yond here  the  way  follows  near  the  shores  of 
the  canal  and  the  traveler  may  often  see  some 
big  ship  passing  slowly  through.  The  next 
stop  is  Gamboa  and  immediately  after  leaving 
the  station  the  train  rumbles  over  the  iron 
drawbridge  spanning  the  Chagres,  passes  the 
•water  pumping   station  and  the  Canal  Zone 


CROSSING  BRIDGE  OF  WORLD    113 

stockade  or  penitentiary  and  commences  its 
long  up  hill  climb  to  Summit. 

Here  is  the  Zone  chicken  farm, — the  least 
said  of  which  the  better, — and  the  crest  of  the 
continental  divide.  Across  the  hills  to  the  right 
Gold  Hill  rears  its  head,  with  lesser  Contractors 
Hill  near  by  and  with  the  glaring  red  cut  plainly 
visible. 

From  Summit  the  way  is  all  dowm  hill  with 
marvelous  views  of  deep  valleys,  like  seas  of 
green,  steep  hillsides  clothed  with  impenetrable 
forests  and  majestic  mountains  looming  blue 
against  the  sky  while,  swinging  about  the  hill- 
sides, clinging  to  the-  steep  slopes,  spamiing  ra- 
vines ajid  winding  in  and  out  of  the  jungle  is  the 
white  thread  of  concrete  automobile  road  that 
extends  from  Gamboa  to  Panama. 

Then,  ahead,  we  see  the  canal  again,  we  speed 
past  Paxaiso  with  the  stupendous,  floating 
cranes  moored  ever  ready  for  business,  and 
draw  up  at  Pedro  Miguel.  Beside  the  shores 
of  pretty  Mirafloros  Lake  the  train  speeds  on; 
it  roars  through  a  tunnel,  hesitates  a  moment  at 
Miraflores  station, — with  the  huge  filtration 
plant  within  sight, — ^and  then  hurries  on  to 
Corozal,  the  post  of  the  Army  Engineers. 

Here  we  are  again  on  level  land.    To  the  right 


114  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

is  the  swamp  bordering  the  canal,  to  the  left 
the  broad  area  of  reclaimed  land.  In  the  dis- 
tance we  see  the  familiar  Administration  Build- 
ing, Ancon  Hill  and  the  city  of  Balboa  and, 
swiftly  swinging  around  the  broad  curve  from 
Corozal,  the  train  stops  at  Balboa's  station 
with  the  broad  avenues,  perfectly  kept  lawns, 
rows  of  palms  and  neat  concrete  homes  remind- 
ing one  of  some  residential  town  in  California. 
Five  minutes  more  and  with  clanging  bell 
the  train's  speed  slackens  as  we  enter  the  out- 
skirts of  Panama  City.  We  catch  a  glimpse  of 
the  big  Tivoli  Hotel  on  the  right,  another  fleet- 
ing glimpse  of  pretty  De  Lesseps  park;  we  note 
countless  brown  and  black  faces  peering  from 
the  many-storied  wooden  tenements  of  Cal- 
idonia,  and  a  moment  later,  have  reached  the 
end  of  our  journey  at  the  splendid  station  in 
Panama.  And  as  we  step  from  the  train  we 
cannot  but  feel  a  thrill,  a  sense  of  elation,  a 
feeling  of  excitement,  for  we  have  accomplished 
a  feat  impossible  in  any  other  spot  in  all  the 
world;  we  have  traveled  from  Atlantic  to 
Pacific, — ^we  have  crossed  the  continent, — in 
"two  hours!  ,     .    >        ■ 


CHAPTER  Vni 

PANAMA   CITY  AND  ITS  SIGHTS 

A  Spanish  city.  Modernized  Panama.  Avenida  Central. 
Santa  Ana  Plaza  and  its  church.  Las  Mercedes  Church. 
The  Plaza  Central.  Independence  Park.  Ndteworthy 
buildings.  The  Cathedra}.  The  Lottery.  Sight  seeing. 
The  President's  Palace.  Market.  Quaint  streets.  Old 
churches.  Old  churches  about  Plaza  Bolivar.  National 
Theater.  National  Palace.  The  Bovedas.  Views  of 
Panama.  The  Flat  Arch.  The  Gold  Altar.  Old  water 
front  and  city  walls.  The  Chorillo.  De  Lesseps  Park. 
Seeing  Balboa  and  Ancon.  Views  from  Quarry  Heights. 
Fort  Amador.  Fortified  Islands.  By  motor  to  Gamboa. 
Trips  to  Taboga  and  the  Pearl  Islands.  Pearls.  Trip  to 
Old  Panama.  Scenes  by  the  way.  Exposition  grounds. 
Bella  Vista.     Old  Panama  and  its  story. 

When  one  steps  from  the  American  railway 
train  into  Panama  City  one  steps  into  a  new 
world,  for  Panama,  despite  its  many  moderni- 
ties, despite  its  hundreds  of  motor  cars,  its  trol- 
leys, its  well  paved  streets,  its  Americanized 
store  windows  and  many  other  details  is  es- 
sentially and  t\T3ically  a  Spanish  city. 

Ever\^where  are  Spanish  signs;  every^v^here 
is  the  Spanish  tongue;  everywhere  are  Spanish 
faces,  Spanish  types,  Spanish  customs,  Spanish 
music    and    Spanish    architecture.      Perhaps, 

115 


116  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

however,  I  should  say  Spanish  American,  for 
there  is  little  of  the  real  Spanish  in  Panama  and 
little  that  savors  of  old  Spain.  But  Spanish 
American  is  a  clumsy  term  at  best  and  Panama 
has  not  been  independent  long  enough  to  have 
developed  any  striking  features  peculiar  to  it- 
self and  its  people  and  'twould  be  an  insult  to 
Panamanians  if  I  were  to  speak  of  their  capital 
city  as  Colombian.  To  find,  the  real  foreign 
charm  of  Panama,  to  see  and  hear  and  smell 
the  real  Spanish  American  atmospherei,  one 
must  go  to  the  back  streets,  the  quaint,  narrow 
thoroughfares,  the  short  alleys,  the  crooked  by- 
ways, the  waterfront  and  the  market  place. 

Avenida  Central,  the  main  street,  is  so  broad 
and  well  paved,  so  overhung  with  trolley  wires, 
so  filled  with  automobiles,  so  crowded  by  Amer- 
icans and  other  foreigners,  so  lined  with  modem 
shops,  department  stores,  motion  picture  the- 
aters, cabarets  and  other  modernities  from  the 
States  that  its  foreign  atmosphere  has  been  al- 
most lost.  But  in  the  out-of-the-way  sections 
and  less  frequented  thoroughfares  it  is  all  very 
different.  To  be  sure,  there  are  spots,  even 
on  Avenida  Central,  where  one  seems  to  have 
stepped  suddenly  into  the  Spanish  city  of  sto- 
ries and  imagination. 


PANAMA  CITY  AND  ITS  SIGHTS    117 

For  example,  there  is  Santa  Ana  Plaza  with 
its  graceful  royal  palms  rising  like  concrete 
shafts  above  the  tessellated  tiled  walks ;  with  its 
mellow-toned  old  church  of  Santa  Ana  in  the 
background ;  with  its  dusky  gamins  and  swarthy 
loungers  on  its  ornate  benches  and  with  its 
quaint  kiosk  where  lottery  tickets,  sweets,  cig- 
arettes, bull  fight  tickets,  postcards,  stamps  and 
what  not  are  sold  by  a  dark-skinned  Senorita 
whose  cheeks  are  ghastly  with  powder  and 
whose  eyes  are  veritable  midnight  pools. 

And  beyond  Santa  Ana  Plaza  the  broad  thor- 
oughfare rapidly  becomes  more  Spanish  Amer- 
ican. Here,  there  are  massive  old  stone  build- 
ings with  jutting  balconies  and  iron  grills  and 
the  gray  pile  of  Las  Mercedes  church  with  its 
great  doors  studded  with  immense  iron  bosses 
and  with  enormous  knockers  ten  feet  above 
one's  head,  while  beyond,  is  the  Plaza  Central, 
or  Independence  Park,  as  typically  Spanish 
American  as  one  could  wish. 

Famed  as  the  spot  where  Panama's  declar- 
ation of  independence  was  declared,  the  Plaza 
Central  is  the  favorite  lounging  place,  the  fav- 
orite breathing  spot,  the  favorite  promenade 
and  the  center  of  all  celebrations,  parades  and 
other  out-of-door  functions  of  the  city.    Here, 


118  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

on  certain  evenings,  the  band  plays  and  the 
population  *'pasears";  pedestrians  packing  the 
walks  and  benches  to  see  and  be  seen  while  a 
constant  stream  of  motor  cars  and  ^'coches" 
moves  ceaselessly  in  never-ending  procession 
round  and  round  the  Plaza.  Here  too,  on  each 
Smiday  morning  at  ten,  is  held  the  lottery  draw- 
ing and,  at  that  time,  a  surging,  interested, 
breathless  crowd  surrounds  the  office — ^which  is 
beneath  the  Bishop's  residence — each  and 
every  one, — from  ragged  beggar  to  millionaire 
merchant, — convinced  that  he  or  she  is  the 
holder  of  the  lucky  number  that  wins  the  capital 
prize. 

Fronting  the  Plaza  on  one  side  is  the  cathe- 
dral, an  imposing  but  modem  edifice  with  its 
towers  studded  with  pearl  shell ;  but  its  interior 
is  rather  garish  and  unattractive  and  with  no 
notable  paintings  or  furnishings.  Opposite 
the  cathedral,  and  also  facing  the  plaza,  is  the 
old  Central  Hotel,  a  famous  hostelry  in  the  days 
of  '49  and,  on  the  third  side  of  the  plaza,  are 
the  Municipal  Palace, — ^a  beautiful  building 
containing  a  remarkably  fine  piece  of  sculpture 
in  marble  in  its  entrance, — and  the  old  Canal 
Administration  building  of  the  French,  but 
which  is  now  given  over  to  the  Post  Office,  the 


PANAMA  CITY  AND  ITS  SIGHTS    119 

telegraph  offices,   offices   of  public  instruction 
and  other  government  offices. 

On  the  fourth  side,  opposite  these  buildings, 
are  the  Bishop's  Palace  and  the  American 
Foreign  Bank. 

As  a  starting  point  from  which  to  wander 
about  the  city  and  see  the  most  interesting 
sights,  the  Central  Plaza  is  unequalled,  for  all 
the  most  important  buildings  and  most  historic 
spots  are  within  easy  reach. 

By  turning  down  Sixth  Street  past  the 
Bishop's  house  the  water  front  is  reached  with 
the  Presidential  Palace  extending  from  Sixth 
to  Fifth  Streets.  The  palace  is  not  impressive 
from  the  exterior,  but  its  patio, — filled  with 
palms  and  tropical  plants  around  a  central  foun- 
tain and  mth  stately  white  egrets  stalking 
about, — is  most  attractive  and  the  ''Gold 
Room"  also  is  of  interest. 

To  the  right,  facing  the  bay,  is  the  ancient 
Marina  Hotel,  while,  to  the  left,  the  street  leads 
to  the  big  public  market. 

The  time  to  visit  the  market  is  early  in  the 
morning  and  the  most  interesting  scenes  are  in 
the  little  stalls  and  stands  outside  the  real  mar- 
ket or  at  the  landing  place  or  ''playa"  where 
the  queer,  dug-out  schooners,  known  as  ''Bon- 


120  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

gos,"  come  from  far  and  near  to  unload  their 
cargoes  of  fruits,  vegetables,  live  stock  and 
other  produce. 

In  this  section  by  the  market  the  streets  are 
steep,  roughly  cobbled,  crooked  and  narrow 
with  the  blank  walls  of  old  buildings  hemming 
them  in  like  cliffs  and  with  the  sidewalks  as- 
cending in  flights  of  stone  steps  in  many  places. 
Here  too,  is  a  rather  quaint  little  plaza,  all 
askew  and  erratic,  as  though  twisted  and 
squeezed  out  of  shape  by  the  pressure  of  build- 
ings round  about  and,  tucked  into  nearby  cor- 
ners, are  several  interesting  churches. 

By  climbing  one  of  the  steep  crooked  streets 
one  may  reach  Central  Avenue  again,  passing 
the  police  station  and  fire  department  buildings 
and  a  triangular  little  plaza  on  Eleventh  Street 
en  route.  It  is  better  however,  to  retrace  one's 
steps  and  passing  the  Presidential  Palace  and 
the  Marina  Hotel,  and  turning  to  the  right  on 
Fourth  Street,  with  San  Filipe  de  Neri  Church 
built  in  1688  at  the  corner  of  Avenue  B,  come  to 
Bolivar  Plaza  with  the  ruins  of  old  San  Fran- 
cisco convent,  burned  in  1756,  the  College  of  La 
Salle  and  the  San  Francisco  Church  on  the  op- 
posite side.  In  this  church,  which  was  rebuilt 
in  1785,  there  are,  or  were,  some  very  fine  old 


OLD  PANAMA,  RUINS  OF  FORT  AND  SEA-WALL 


BONGOS  IN  PANAMA  HARBOUR   (THESE  BOATS  ARE  ALL 
MADE   FROM    HOLLOWED  OUT   LOGS) 


PANAMA  CITY  AND  ITS  SIGHTS    121 

paintings  while  the  church  itself  was  most  at- 
tractive, with  its  age-mellowed  stone  work,  its 
crumbling  walls  and  artistic  towers;  but  un- 
fortunately, within  the  past  year,  it  has  been 
repaired  and  rejuvenated  in  such  a  way  that 
it  has  been  completely  ruined  from  an  archi- 
tectural point  of  view. 

Following  along  the  water  front  from  Plaza 
Bolivar,  one  passes  the  National  theater,  form- 
ing an  integral  part  of  the  National  Palace 
which  fronts  on  Central  Avenue,  and  which  con- 
tains the  offices  of  the  various  Cabinet  Ministers 
and  their  departments,  as  well  as  the  Assembly 
Chambers  where  the  Legislative  body  meets. 

At  the  lower  end  of  Avenida  Central,  the 
splendid  Union  Club  is  reached,  and  just  beyond, 
one  comes  to  the  famous  Bovedas  and  Chiriqui 
prison.  The  Bovedas,  constructed  by  the  Span- 
iards, were,  in  the  old  days,  the  most  important 
portion  of  the  city's  defences  and  while  the 
queer,  lantern-shaped  sentry  boxes  still  stand 
and  are  still  occupied  by  khaki-clad  sentries,  the 
fortifications  have  been  transformed  into  a 
prison,  many  of  the  cells  being  below  the  street 
and  as  damp,  dank  and  fearsome  as  any  dun- 
geons ever  imagined  by  writers  of  fiction. 

From  the  Bovedas  one  has  a  splendid  view  of 


122  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

the  water  front  of  Panama  with  the  green  Ancon 
hill  beyond,  the  twin  towers  of  the  cathedral 
rising  above  the  sea  of  red  roofs  and  lesser 
buildings,  and  the  fortified  islands  of  Naos,  Fla- 
menco and  Culebra  guarding  the  entrance  to  the 
Canal  while, — mirage  like, — Taboga  and  Tabo- 
guilla  rise, — pearl  gray  and  mauve, — upon  the 
horizon;  the  whole  forming  a  picture  which 
might  well  be  a  bit  of  the  Mediterranean. 

From  the  Bovedas  one  may  return  to  Central 
Plaza  by  way  of  Avenida  Central,  past  the  Na- 
tional Palace  and  the  American  Legation ;  but  it 
is  better  to  follow  Avenue  A  with  its  many  hand- 
some and  typically  Spanish  American  resi- 
dences and  several  old  and  very  interesting 
churches. 

On  this  avenue,  at  the  comer  of  Third  Street, 
is  the  ruin  of  Santo  Domingo  church  with  its 
famed  flat  arch,  a  magnificent  bit  of  architec- 
tural work  which  has  been  the  wonder  and  sur- 
prise of  engineers  and  whose  existence  had  a  di- 
rect bearing  on  the  successful  building  of  the 
Canal.  Composed  of  brick,  stone  and  mortar, 
and  mth  nothing  that  can  really  be  considered 
a  keystone,  this  wonderful  arch  has  withstood 
every  storm  and  many  an  earthquake  since  the 
old  church  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1756  and  it 


PANAMA  CITY  AND  ITS  SIGHTS    123 

was  this  fact,  more  than  any  other  data,  which 
con\Tnced  our  engineers  that  tlie  concrete  locks 
would  nin  little  danger  of  being  destroyed  by 
any  earth  tremors. 

This  church,  like  all  the  old  churches  in  the 
city,  was  built  of  materials  salvaged  from  the 
ruins  of  old  Panama  and  hence  those  that  still 
stand  have  an  appearance  of  being  much  older 
than  they  really  are,  while  the  hodge-podge  of 
brick,  tile,  cut  stone  and  rubble  of  which  their 
walls  are  composed  is  very  curious. 

Beyond  Santo  Domingo  and  its  arch,  at  the 
comer  of  Avenue  A  and  Eighth  Street  is  an- 
other church, — an  obscure,  unattractive,  se- 
verely plain  structure  which  might  w^ell  be 
passed  unnoticed,  but  which  is  probably  the 
most  noteworthy  sight  in  Panama  City,  for 
within  its  portals  is  the  famous  golden  altar  of 
San  Jose.  Marvelously  beautiful  is  the  effect 
of  this  magnificent  altar  of  gold  as  the  sunlight, 
streaming  through  the  stained  glass  windows 
gleams  upon  its  burnished  surface  and  is  re- 
flected in  dazzling  brilliancy.  And  fascinating 
and  interesting  as  the  altar  itself  is  the  ro- 
mantic stor}'  of  its  history.  Of  beaten  gold, 
and  worth  a  king's  ransom,  the  altar,  so  legend 
says,  was  the  pride  of  the  richest  church  in  Old 


124  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Panama, — then  the  richest  and  most  important 
city  in  the  New  World, — and  was  made  from 
the  church's  tithe  of  the  gold  from  Panama's 
mines. 

When  word  of  Morgan's  victory 'at  San  Lor- 
enzo reached  Panama,  the  golden  altar  of  San 
Jose  was  hurriedly  taken  down,  and  with  other 
ecclesiastical  treasures  was  laden  on  a  ship 
which  immediately  sailed  away.    When  Mor- 
gan arrived  and  found  the  churches  stripped  of 
their  valuables,  and  by  tortures  learned  of  their 
whereabouts,  he  seized  the  few  vessels  remain- 
ing in  the  harbor  and  gave  chase  and  while  his 
crews  succeeded  in  capturing  a  few  of  the  flee- 
ing Spanish  boats,  the  ships  bearing  the  bulk  of 
the  treasure  and  the  famous  gold  altar  eluded 
them.     Much  of  the  wealth  they  bore,  however, 
was  never  recovered;  many  of  the  ships  were 
never  heard  from;   no  one  knew  their  fate. 
They  may  have  been  wrecked  on  uninhabited 
parts  of  the  coast,  as  befell  one  on  the  shores  of 
Darien;  their  crews'  may  have  mutinied,  and 
killing  their  officers,  made  away  with  the  treas- 
ure on  board,   or  they  may  have  foundered, 
while  rumor  has  it  that  much  of  the  precious 
cargo  they  carried  was  buried  on  outlying  is- 
lands or  remote  parts  of  the  mainland  to  keep 


PANAMA  CITY  AND  ITS  SIGHTS    125 

it  safe  from  any  future  pirate  raids.  Be  that  as 
it  may,  when  the  Spaniards  builded  the  new 
City  of  Panama  the  little  church  on  Avenue  A 
had  merely  an  insignificant  white  altar  in  pla.ce 
of  the  marvelous  thing  of  beaten  gold  which  had 
adoraed  its  predecessor  in  Old  Panama. 

Gradually,  as  the  years  passed,  the  famous 
altar  and  its  story  were  forgotten,  save  perhaps 
by  the  Padres  of  the  little  church,  until  the  un- 
certain days  of  buccaneers,  the  despotic  rule 
of  Spain,  the  turbulent  era  af  revolutions  and 
the  unsettled  times  of  the  Tiew  republics  were 
at  an  end.  Then,  for  a  space,  the  Fathers 
worked  quietly  and  in  secret,  the  little  white 
altar  was  cleaned  and  lo,  beneath  the  paint,  the 
golden  altar  once  more  blazed  forth  in  all  its 
long-forgotten  glorj' ! 

Perhaps  there  is  no  truth  in  this  romantic 
tale ;  it  may  be  that  the  altar  is  not  the  ancient 
one  of  beaten  gold,  but  merely  a  replica;  but 
even  so,  it  matters  little,  for  the  stoiy  loses 
none  of  its  interest  thereby  and  the  beauty  of 
the  altar  is  undimmed. 

Unfortunately,  however,  some  one  with  more 
zeal  than  art  has  seen  fit  to  install  an  immense 
amount  of  gilt  work  in  the  church  which  cheap- 
ens the  effect  of  the  whole,  detracts  from  the 


126  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

altar's  impressiveness  and  beauty  and  leads  the 
visitor  to  think  that  all  is  mere  gold  paint. 

Just  beyond  this  little  church, — ^at  the  corner 
of  Ninth  Street, — ^is  Herrera  Plaza  which  is 
utilized  as  a  children's  playground  and  is  fitted 
with  carousels,  swings,  ch.uites,  parallel  bars, 
games,  see-saws  and  various  other  sources  of 
amusement  and  exercise  with  a  large  shallow 
pool  wherein  the  kiddies  may  sail  their  toy 
boats  or  paddle  about  in  safety. 

Only  a  few  years  ago,  this  Plaza  was  covered 
by  the  sea  at  high  tide  and  the  water  reached  as 
far  as  the  Piza  Piza  store  at  the  comer  of 
Eighth  Street  and  Avenida  Central,  the  build- 
ing having  been  formerly  the  Aspinwall  Hotel. 

Down  Ninth  Street  to  the  left  of  Avenue  A 
is  the  plant  of  the  Panama  Lighting  and  Power 
Company  while,  two  blocks  beyond  Herrera 
Plaza,  one  may  see  the  ruins  of  the  old  city 
walls  and  fortifications  that  once  guarded  the 
water  front  along  here. 

Continuing  beyond  here,  we  again  reach  the 
Santa  Ana  Plaza  and,  by  turning  to  the  left 
and  going  out  B  Street, — with  its  trolley  line, — 
we  pass  the  Santo  Tomas  Hospital,  the  ceme- 
teries,— of  which  the  Hebrew  and  Chinese  are 
particularly  notable, — and  passing  through  the 


PANAMA  CITY  AND  ITS  SIGHTS    127 

new  suburb  kno\vn  as  the  Chorillo  we  enter  the 
Canal  Zone  at  the  bottom  of  Ancon  Hill. 

Tuniiug  to  the  right  and  following  the  mag- 
nificent roadway  along  the  base  of  the  hill,  one 
comes  to  the  splendid  buildings  of  the  National 
Institute,  the  largest  building  in  Panama  and 
a  seat  of  learning  of  which  any  country  might 
be  proud. 

Continuing  straight  ahead,  the  road  leads 
past  the  Ancon  (Canal  Zone)  Post  OflSce,  the 
Ancon  childrens'  playground,  the  rear  of  the 
Ancon  School,  and  the  Century  Club  ^vith 
pretty  De  Lesseps  Plaza  to  the  right  and  the 
Tivoli  Hotel  on  the  hill  to  the  left. 

De  Lesseps  Plaza  or  Park  could  easily  be 
made  the  most  beautiful  of  spots  and  a  credit 
to  Panama,  for  it  is  well  laid  out,  there  are 
quantities  of  flowering  shrubs,  shade  and  orna- 
mental trees,  and  it  has  an  attra-ctive  band  stand 
and  charming  fountains;  but  it  has  been 
neglected  and  uncar-ed  for  until  in  very  bad 
condition  and  an  eyesore. 

Having  now  seen  the  best  of  the  capital  of 
Panama  it  is  advisable  to  see  what  Ancon  and 
Balboa  have  to  offer  and  the  best  way  to  see 
these  model  Zone  townis  is  by  motor  car  or  coche 
which  should  be  hired  by  the  hour. 


128  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

There  are  so  many  routes,  so  many  splendid 
drives  about  Ancon  and  Balboa  that  it  would 
require  many  pages  to  describe  them  all;  but 
the  local  drivers  will  take  the  visitor  over  the 
entire  district  if  so  instructed  and  will  point 
out  every  building  and  spot  of  interest.  As  a 
rule,  the  first  route  followed  is  along  the  main 
drive  from  the  Tivoli  past  the  Administration 
Building  and  through  the  Prado  of  Balboa  to 
the  Balboa  Clubhouse,  thence  past  the  Balboa 
Commissary  Restaurant  and  up  to  Quarry 
Heights,  finally  descending  past  the  huge  An- 
con Hospital. 

This  trip  affords  some  magnificent  views, 
especially  that  from  Quarry  Heights,  with  the 
Prado  bordered  by  royal  palms  and  lined  with 
the  neat,  concrete  houses  and  stretching, 
straight  as  an  arrow,  from  the  foot  of  Admini- 
stration Building  Hill  to  the  Clubhouse  with 
the  piers,  shops,  dry  docks  and  canal  beyond. 

But  wherever  one  looks  the  view  is  beau- 
tiful, for  Balboa  is  as  neat  and  orderly,  as  pret- 
tily laid  out  and  as  attractive  as  a  miniature 
model  of  a  town. 

Perhaps  the  finest  view  from  Quarry  Heights 
is  that  of  the  town  and  the  Canal  at  night, 
when  the  lights  gleam  among  the  palms  and 


PANAMA  CITY  AND  ITS  SIGHTS    129 

the  distant  Miraflores  Locks  seem  a  bit  of  fairy 
land,  \nth  their  myriad  lights  twinkling  against 
the  purple  background  of  the  lake  and  hills  and 
casting  a  soft,  refulgent  glow  upon  the  placid 
waters  of  the  Can^l. 

Another  interesting  trip  is  that  to  Fort 
Amador  with  its  long  rows  of  attractive,  con- 
crete quarters  and  barracks,  its  well-kept 
grounds  and  lawns  and  with  the  causeway  lead- 
ing to  the  fortified  islands  at  the  Canal  en- 
trance. 

If  possible  to  secure  a  pass  to-  visit  these 
forts,  the  visitor  should  by  all  means  do  so,  for 
nowhere  else, — save  at  the  Rock  of  Gibraltar, — 
have  solid  mountains  been  so  hollowed  and  tun- 
nelled and  honeycombed  to  provide  impregnable 
forts. 

With  no  external  hint  of  what  has  been  done, 
these  cone-shaped,  rocky  islands  rear  their 
summits  two  hundred  feet  or  more  above  the 
sea,  commanding  a  vast  expanse  of  ocean  and 
all  possible  waterways  which  lead  to  the 
canal.  Upon  their  summits, — sliced  off  and 
hollowed  out, — are  batteries  of  huge  14  and 
16  inch  guns;  secondary  batteries  are  scat- 
tered about;  a  wonderful  mortar  battery  is 
nestled  in  an  artificial  hollow  at  the  base  of 


130  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PEESENT 

one  hill;  in  great  chambers  cut  within  the 
heart  of  the  solid  rock,  are  barracks,  machine 
shops,  electric  plants  and  controls,  while, 
leading  to  the  summits  through  the  very  cen- 
ter of  the  islands,  are  stairways  and  elevators. 

And  if  the  visitor  is  fortunate  enough  to"  be 
permitted  to  visit  these  wonderful  forts  and 
to  climb  or  to.  be  carried  to  the  summits,  he 
will  find  a  marvelous  panorama  spread  before 
him. 

Like  a  steel-blue  ribbon  the  Canal  stretches 
from  beneath  one's  feet  to  Miraflores,  with  Bal- 
boa, like  a  toy  town,  amid  its  lawns  and  Fort 
Amador  connecting  it  in  a  narrow  tongue  of 
land  with  the  causeway.  To  the  north,  the 
city  of  Panama  basks  in  the  sun, — a  sea  of 
red  roofs  and  church  towers — backed  by  range 
after  range  of  misty  mountains  stretching 
into  the  dim  distance.  To  the  south,  Taboga 
rears  its  green  hills  above  the  turquoise  sea 
with  still  greener  Taboguilla  just  beyond,  while 
to  the  east,  phantasmal,  elusive  and  wraith-like, 
the  opalescent  outlines  of  the  Pearl  Islands 
shimmer  upon  the  far  horizon. 

Even  after  'Moing"  Panama  City  and  the 
Zone  there  is  still  much  of  interest  to  be  seen 
in  the  vicinity  of  Panama.    There  is  the  splen- 


PANAMA  CITY  AND  ITS  SIGHTS    131 

did  concrete  motor  road  from  Balboa  throui^h 
Corozal,  Pedro  Miguel,  and  Paraiso  to  Gamboa 
on  the  Chagres;  a  road  leading  tlirough  enchant- 
ingly  pretty  scenery  and  with  constantly  chang- 
ing glimpses  of  the  Canal  and  its  locks.  There 
are  trips  to  Taboga, — where  one  is  made  thor- 
oughly comfortable  at  the  Hotel  Aspinwall  op- 
erated by  the  United  States  Government  and 
where  one  may  see  native  Panamanian  life  in 
the  quaint  old  village  or  may  bathe  in  the  tepid 
Pacific  or  enjoy  splendid  fishing,  according  to 
one's  bent  or,  if  a  longer  trip  is  desired,  a  jour- 
ney may  be  made  to  the  Pearl  Islands. 

On  this  trip  one  may  revel  in  what  are  per- 
haps the  best  fishing  grounds  of  the  Pacific,  for 
it  is  nothing  miusual  for  half  a  ton  of  jack, 
Spanish  mackerel,  barracouda,  pompano,  dol- 
phin and  other  gamey  fishes  to  be  taken  by  a 
party  of  three  ok  four  in  a  day's  fishing  be- 
tw^een  Panama  and  San  Miguel,  the  largest  of 
the  islands. 

And  at  the"  Pearl  Islands  there  is-  not  a  little 
to  interest  the  visitor,  especially  if  the  trip  be 
made  during  the  pearling  season, — from  April 
until  December.  Quaint  and*  very  foreign  is 
the  little  fishing  town  of  San  Miguel  but,  like 
nearly  all  the  native  villages,  none  too  cleanly 


132  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

and  with  an  ill-kept,  untidy  appearance  which, 
to  those  unfamiliar  with  Latin  America,  seems 
to  bespeak  abject  poverty,  but  which,  in  reality, 
means  nothing  of  the  s.ort,  for  the  native  Pan- 
amanian of  the  outlying  districts  cares  not  a 
jot  for  appearances  or  surroundings  and  he  may 
dwell  in  a  patched,  thatched  hut  and  be  attired 
in  rags  and  yet  be  well-to-do  or  even  wealthy. 

But  if  you  expect  to  purchase  pearls  at  San 
Miguel  for  a  little  or  nothing  you  will  be  griev- 
ously disappointed.  The  Pearl  Islander  knows 
the  value  of  pearls  as  well  as  any  dealer  in  the 
big  cities  or  even  New  York  and  while  his  prices 
are  far  lower  than  one  w£)uld  pay  in  a  Fifth  Av- 
enue, or;  even  in  an  Avenida  Central,  jeweler's, 
yet  you  may  be  sure  they  are  all  the  pearl  is 
worth  or  more. 

Of  course,  now  and  then,  one  may  pick  up 
a  bargain ;  one  may  meet  some  chap  who  is  hard 
up  and  cannot  find  a  ready  purchaser  for  his 
pearls  or  he  may  have  come  by  them  dishon- 
estly, or  they  may  have  a  shght  blemish,  which 
can  be  eliminated  by  an  expert,  or  he  may, — 
and  this  is  more  often  the  case, — ^be  drunk  and 
careless  in  his  bargaining.  So  too,  one  may,  now 
and  then,  find  pearls  which,  though  of  irregular 
form  or  imperfect  color,  may  match  so  per- 


PANAMA  CITY  AND  ITS  SIGHTS    133 

fectly  and  be  so  odd  that  for  one 's  personal  use 
they  are  worth  far  more  than  the  price  asked. 

But  unless  one  knows  pearls  one  should  be 
very  cautious  in  purchasing  of  natives.  San 
Miguel,  as  well  as  Panama  and  Colon,  is  alive 
"^ivnth  native  buyers  and  itinerant  pearl  peddlers 
who  are  out  to  '*do"  the  stranger  if  they  can 
and  instances  are  not  unknown  where  visitors 
to  the  Isthmus  have  proudly  exhibited  bargains 
in  pearls,  which  they  have  purchased  from  the 
innocent  natives,  only  to  learn  that  their  treas- 
ures were  excellent  Parisian  imitations. 

Finally,  there  is  the  trip  to  Old  Panama,  a  trip 
which  every  visitor  to  the  Isthmus  should  and 
which  nearly  every  one  does  take.  Leaving  the 
Tivoli,  or  Panama  City,  the  road  runs  through 
the  district  known  as  Calidonia,  a  portion  of 
the  city  given  over  mainly  to  negro  tenements 
of  the  same  many-storied,  flimsy-balconied, 
ramshackle  wooden  type  as  those  in  Colon. 
Then  the  orphan  asylum  and  poor  house  are 
passed,  the  road  swings  to  the  right,  with  the  big 
Casino  and  Plaza  del  Toros  on  the  left,  and 
skirts  the  Exposition  Grounds. 

These  grounds,  laid  out  with  the  idea  of  a  per- 
manent Pan-American  exposition,  are  beauti- 
fully situated  and  contain  a  number  of  fine 


134  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

buildings  which  were  built  to  house  exhibits; 
but  the  advent  of  the  World 's  War  played  havoc 
with  the  scheme,  as  it  did  with  many  other 
things,  and  the  buildings  have  mainly  been 
devoted  to  other  purposes. 

Some  are  occupied  by  foreign  legations  and 
others  have  been  given  over  to  government 
uses,  but  the  National  Museum  still  contains  a 
very  good  collection  of  native  woods,  birds, 
mammals,  fishes  and  insects,  although  badly 
cared  for,  largely  unlabelled  and  improperly 
exhibited. 

Here  too,  is  an  excellent  private  hospital  and 
sanitorium  conducted  by  American  doctors, 
while,  near  by,  the  new  Panamanian  hospital 
of  Santo  Tomas  is  being  built. 

A  bit  further  on  is  Bella  Vista,  a  charming 
little  seaside  suburb  with  bathing"  pavilions, 
a  good  beach  and  many  pretty  bungalows  and 
villas  belonging  to  prominent  Panamanians. 

The  road,  which  is  far  from  perfect,  passes 
through  a  rather  flat,  monotonous  and  unin- 
teresting country  for  several  miles  with  here 
and  there  the  palatial,  and  usually  too  ornate, 
country  residence  of  some  wealthy  native  and 
then,  branching  sharply  to  the  right,  brings  one 
to  the  famous  ruins  of  Old  Panama. 


PANAMA  CITY  AND  ITS  SIGHTS    135 

The  first  object  seen  is  the  ancient,  partly- 
ruined  bridge  which  spans  a  little  creek  beside 
the  road, — the  bridge  over  which  Morgan  led 
his  victorious  ruffians  when  he  sealed  the  doom 
of  the  city.  Just  beyond  this  are  several  mas- 
sive ruins  half  concealed  in  the  brush  with 
others  scattered  through  the  tangle  of  weeds 
and  bushes  while,  dominating  all,  and  the  most 
famed  and  photographed  spot  in  all  the  Re- 
public, rises  the  tower  of  San  Anastasio 
church,  like  a  monument  marking  the  grave 
of  the  city  and  its  dead.  The  tower  stands 
but  a  few  yards  from  the  sea  and  here,  just 
above  high-water  mark,  is  the  last  remnant 
of  the  old  wall  and  fort  built  of  cobbles  and 
mortar  and  the  oldest  bit  of  the  old  city. 

Impressive  and  historically  interesting  as 
are  these  ruins  of  what  was  once  the  richest 
and  most  important  city  of  the  New  World, 
yet  the  spot  is  ruined  by  a  noisy,  objectionable 
**cantina"  or  drinking  place  erected  opposite 
the  old  church  tower  and,  as  a  usual  thing, 
a  crowd  of  obscene,  loud-voiced,  intoxicated 
merrymakers  make  the  place  hideous  with 
ribald  songs,  discordant  music  and  licentious 
dancing. 

It  is  a  great  pity  that  the  Panamanian  Gov- 


136  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

eminent  has  been  so  short  sighted  or  so  in- 
different as  to  permit  this  historic  place  to  be 
made  a  resort  for  carousals,  gaming,  cock 
fighting,  drinking  and  disreputable  behavior 
of  all  sorts  when  it  should  have  been  made 
into  a  Government  reservation  and  conserved, 
cared  for  and  guarded  for  all  time. 

During  the  regime  of  Dr.  Dexter,  as  head  of 
the  National  Institute,  that  gentleman  took  a 
great  interest  in  Old  Panama,  and  with  Gov- 
ernment aid,  had  the  entire  place  cleared, 
cleaned  and  surveyed.  During  this  work  he 
recovered  a  vast  quantity  of  most  valuable 
and  interesting  relics,  such  as  old  weapons, 
glass  and  china,  buttons,  locks,  pottery,  house- 
hold utensils,  coins,  etc.  In  addition,  he  made 
a  large  scale  model  of  the  ruins,  and  in  order 
to  properly  identify  all  of  the  existing  ruins, 
he  secured  authentic  copies  of  the  original  de- 
scriptions and  reports  of  the  city  from  the 
Archives  of  Spain.  A  perusal  of  these  brought 
to  light  many  interesting  facts  and  proved 
that  the  famous  old  city  was  quite  different 
from  what  one  might  imagine  from  its  fame 
and  from  story. 

According  to  the  records  contemporaneous 
with  the  city,  there  were  very  few  buildings 


PANAMA  CITY  AND  ITS  SIGHTS    137 

of  stone  or  of  note,  the  bulk  of  the  houses, 
shops  and  even  some  of  the  government  build- 
inp:s,  being  of  wattled  cane  and  adobe  thatched 
with  leaves.  Moreover,  the  majority  of  these 
were  little  more  than  huts  and  in  the  descrip- 
tion of  the  town  the  houses  were  divided  into 
two  classes;  those  with  floors  and  tliose  with- 
out, and  those  without  were  greatly  in  the 
majority. 

When  we  realize  this  we  can  readily  under- 
stand how  easily  a  fire  could  be  accidentally 
started  by  some  brawling,  drunken  pirate 
knocking  over  a  candle  or  lamp,  or  even  from 
the  flash  of  a  pistol  or  musket,  and,  once 
started,  the  conflagration  was  certain  to  sweep 
the  town. 

Another  matter  which  Doctor  Dexter 's  re- 
searches made  clear  was  that  the  land  has  al- 
tered greatly  since  Morgan's  raid,  for,  if  we 
are  to  believe  the  ancient  maps  and  records, 
tlie  harbor  of  Old  Panama  ran  well  into  the 
land  back  of  St.  Anastasio  church  and  almost 
to  the  old  bridge  and  good  sized  boats  landed 
where  now  there  is  nothing  but  a  semi-dry  man- 
grove swamp. 

Few  visitors  to  Old  Panama  see  anything 
more  than  the  old  church  tower  and  the  ruins 


138  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PEESENT 

close  at  hand;  but  for  those  really  interested 
and  who  are  not  afraid  of  red  bugs,  ticks,  thorns 
or  brambles,  the  old  vaults  of  the  ancient  Treas- 
ury (usually  {miscalled  the  dungeons)  are 
worthy  of  inspection. 

It  was  within  these  dark,  stone  cells  that 
all  that  vast  treasure  of  gold,  silver  and  pre- 
cious stones;  of  plate  and  ingot;  of  loot  from 
Incas  and  Aztecs;  of  bullion,  wrought  literally 
by  blood,  from  a  thousand  mines  was  stored 
to  await  the  treasure  trains  of  mules,  slaves 
and  armed  men  which  transported  the  wealth 
of  the  west  across  the  Gold  Road  to  the  ships 
waiting  in  the  harbors  of  Nombre  de  Dios 
and  Porto  Bello. 

One's  imagination  cannot  conceive  the  for- 
tunes which  have  filled  these  vaults;  one  can- 
not picture  the  awful  sufferings,  the  untold 
horrors,  the  unspeakable  crimes)  and  incTed- 
ible  tortures  which  were  undergone  and  in- 
flicted in  getting  together  the  millions  whicJh 
have  passed  through  the  low,  arched  portals 
of  these  dismal  chambers. 

If  only  the  ancient  stones  could  speak  what 
a  marvelous  story  they  could  tell!  What 
wonderful  scenes  they  have  witnessed !     What 


PANAMA  CITY  AND  ITS  SIGHTS    139 

incalculable  fortunes  they  have  hoarded  in  the 
bloody  days  of  yore! 

But  to-day  they  are  empty;  their  damp, 
stone  steps  no  longer  ring  to  the  tread  of  ar- 
mored men;  no  longer  do  boxes  and  bales  and 
bars  of  dull  gold  fill  them  from  floor  to  arched 
roof;  never  again  will  the  fitful  glow  of  sput- 
tering torches  gleam  in  many-colored  fires 
from  piles  of  gems  torn  from  the  writhing, 
tortured  bodies  of  Indian  princesses  and 
kings.  Their  floors  are  deep  with  dirt,  filth 
and  debris;  loathsome,  crawling  things  hide 
among  the  crevices  of  the  masonry;  their  once 
strong  doors  have  disappeared  and  left  them 
open  to  the  elements  and  bats  by  thousands 
make  them  their  roosting  place. 


CHAPTER  IX 

THROUGH    VEBAGUAS    THE    GOLDEN' 

Out  of  the  beaten  track.  Discomforts  of  travel.  Coast- 
wise steamers.  From  Panama  to  Agua  Dulce.  Agua 
Dulce.  Industries.  Plains  of  Code.  Nearby  towns. 
The  road  to  Santiago.  Horses  and  outfits.  Scenery  along 
the  road.  Natives.  The  Star  of  the  Plains.  Bird  life. 
Road  to  San  Francisco  de  la  Montaiia.  Settlements  along 
the  way.  Divisa  the  half  way  point.  Country  beyond 
Divisa.  Santiago.  Once  a  metropolis.  A  country  of  gold. 
Why  mines  were  abandoned.  Mineral  wealth  of  Veraguas. 
Lost  mines.  Tisingal.  San  Francisco  de  la  Montana. 
An  ancient  church.  Mountain  towns.  The  Lake  of  Death. 
Interior  towns.     Puerto  Mutis.     Where  time  has  stood  still. 

And  now,  having  visited  this  once  *'Goode 
and  Staytlye  City"  and  having  seen  and 
visited  Panama  City  and  its  environs,  suppose 
we  leave  the  beaten  track  and  take  a  few  short 
journeys  into  the  interior  of  the  Repubhc. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  and  interesting, 
as  well  as  one  of  the  easiest,  trips  which  can 
be  taken  is  by  boat  and  horseback  through 
Veraguas,^   but   even   this   will   entail   a   few 

1  The  name  Veraguas  is  of  Indian  origin  and  not 
Spanish  as  is  generally  thought.  The  ending  "agua" 
being  merely  a  coincidence  and  having  nothing  to  do  with 
the  Spanish  word  "agua"  or  water.     The  same  ending  is 

140 


THROUGH  VERAGUAS  141 

hardships  and  many  discomforts  beginning 
■with  the  moment  the  traveler  boards  the  local 
coasting  steamer  at  Panama. 

These  boats  are  little,  flat-bottomed  affairs 
which  have  been  abused,  neglected  and  mis- 
handled for  so  long  that  one  man-els  that  they 
ever  reach  their  destination.  Fortunately  the 
Pacific  is  usually  calm  near  shore,  the  runs  are 
short  and,  on  the  up  trip  from  Panama  to  the 
outljing  parts,  the  vessels  are  seldom  crowded 
or  overloaded.  But  on  the  return  journey  it 
is  very  different. 

On  one  occasion  I  made  the  trip  from 
Agua  Dulce  to  Panama  on  one  of  these  steam- 
ers which,  although  supposed  to  carry  but 
sixty  passengers,  had  one  hundred  and  fifty 
in  addition  to  over  three  hundred  head  of  live- 
stock and  a  good  cargw  'of  miscellaneous 
freight.  So  deeply  was  she  laden  that  she 
actually  had  sunk  until  fast  in  the  mud  and  it 
was  necessary  to  run  her  pumps  for  two  hours 
to  float  her.  There  was  no  chance  to  sleep, 
every  bench,  chair  and  table,  as  well  as  the 
decks,  being  occupied;  the  life  boats  were 
leaky  and  one  was  absolutely  unfit  to  float  and 

found    in    the    Indian    names    of    Managua,    Nicaragua, 
Couiajma  etc. 


142  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

by  the  time  we  reached  Panama  there  was  a 
bare  six  inches  of  freeboard  btween  the  sea 
and  the  lower  deck. 

Despite  all  this,  no  serious  accident  has  oc- 
curred for  a  number  of  years  and  the  little 
tubs  are  really  far  more  seaworthy  than  they 
seem. 

From  twelve  to  fourteen  hours  after  leav- 
ing Panama  the  steamer  enters  the  winding 
creek  leading  to  Agua  Dulce  and  steams  slowly 
along  between  mangrove-covered  shores  where, 
if  the  tide  be  low,  one  may  see  many  forms  of 
bird  and  mammal  life  such  as  ibis,  egrets, 
herons,  boatbills,  pelican's,  cormorants  and 
waders,  with  here  and  there  an  alligator  or 
perchance  a  troop  of  crab-eating  raccoons  nos- 
ing about  the  broad  mud  flats  exposed  by  the 
receding  tide.  And  here  it  may  be  well  to 
mention  that  the  tide  on  the  Pacific  side  is 
from  eighteen  to  twenty  onel  feet  while,  on 
the  Atlantic,  it  is  scarcely  noticeable. 

The  Agua  Dulce  dock,  like  many  athers  in 
Panama,  is  about  two  miles  from  the  town, — 
a  custom  adopted  by  the  old  Dons  to  lessen 
the  danger  of  being  surprised  by  pirates, — 
and  is  connected  by  a  well  built  road  bordered 


THROUGH   VERAGUAS  143 

on  either  side  by  the  broad,  shallow  lagoons 
•and  salt  pans. 

As  one  drives  along  this  road  in  one  of  the 
prehistoric  coches  drawn  by  an  antedeluvian 
horse,  there  is  plenty  of  interest,  for  the 
country  is  totally  different  from  anything 
seen  along  the  Canal  or  about  Panama  City. 

Flat,  and  almost  as  level  as  a  board,  are 
grassy  pasture  lands,  cut  here  and  there  by 
small  streams  or  '' barrancas."  whose  courses 
may  be  tranced  by  the  tangle  of  brush  and 
stunted  trees  which  fill  them.  Along  the  road- 
side, and  scattered  here  and  there,  are  clumps 
and  masses  of  thorny  bushes,  prickly  vines, 
cacti  and  euphorbias  with  occasional  groups  or 
groves  of  low,  broad-topped  mimosas.  To  the 
right,  rise  brick-red,  ahnost  bare,  hills,  while 
beyond,  in  tier  upon  tier,  loom  mountains 
after  mountains.  Altogether  it  is  a  scene 
such  as  one  might  expect  in  South  Africa  and 
the  effect  is  still  further  heightened  by  the 
innumerable  conical  nests  of  ants,  often  ten 
or  fifteen  feet  in  height,  which  dot  the  plains 
or  stand  beside  the  road  and  from  a  distance 
look  like  groups  of  khaki-colored  tents.  In- 
deed, one  half  expects  to  see  a  Kaffir  kraal, 


144  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PEESENT 

a  herd  of  giraffes  or  a  flock  of  ostriches  at 
any  moment.  But  the  nearest  approach  to 
giraffes  are  the  scrawny  cattle  and  horses, 
there  is  nothing  more  resembling  an  ostrich 
than  the  repulsive  vultures  and  carrion  hawks, 
and  kaffir  kraals  are  replaced  by  the  outlying 
huts  of  Agua  Dulce,  the  capital  of  Code  prov- 
ince. 

Agua  Dulce,  (sweet  water)  is  rather  paradox- 
ically named  as  its  chief  industry  is  salt  and 
the  only  fresh  water  in  the  vicinity  is  a  tiny 
stream  flowing  from  a  drive-well  which  sup- 
plies the  city  with  its  drinking  water. 

The  town  is  fairly  well  kept  and  better  than 
the  majority  of  interior  towns  and  has  a  few 
very  good  buildings  and  two  hotels  or  rather 
apologies  therefor;  but  it  is  hot,  dusty  and  of 
little  interest,  aside  from  the  huge  salt  ''pans" 
which  provide  the  bulk  of  its  five  thousand  in- 
habitants with  a,  livelihood. 

Near  at  hand,  however,  are  some  large  sugar 
estates  and  mills;  excellent  cattle  and  horses 
are  raised,  as  well  as  considerable  fruit  and 
many  fowls,  turkeys  and  eggs  which  are 
shipped  from  here  to  Panama. 

From  Agua  Dulce  a  road  leads  to  Santiago  de 
'Veraguas,  the  capital  of  the  province,  while 


THROUGH  VERAGUAS  145 

other  highways  connect  the  town  with  Pocri, 
— about  four  miles  distant  and  in  many  ways 
praferable  to  Agua  Dulce  aa  a  stopping 
place, — ^with  Penonome  and  Nata,  also  in  Code 
Province,  and  with  various  other  outlying 
towns.  To  see  the  best  of  Veraguas  however, 
the  traveler  should  take  the  Santiago  road  and 
while,  during  the  dry  months,  an  ancient,  ram- 
shackle Ford  makes  daily  trips  between  the  two 
cities,  yet  it  is  far  more  satisfactory  and  com- 
fortable to  make  the  journey  on  horseback. 

One  may  always  obtain  saddle  and  pack 
horses  at  Agua  Dulce  and  Pocri,  (the  coches 
which  meet  the  steamers  will  take  the  traveler 
direct  to  the  latter  town  if  desired),  but  to 
secure  good  horses  and  decent  saddles  is  quite 
another  matter.  Do  not  however,  expect  the 
**good"  horses  to  be  what  the  term  implies,  the 
best  that  the  country  affords  are  far  from 
being  up  to  the  North  American  standard. 

Luckily  the  quality  of  the  mount  matters 
very  little,  provided  one  has  a  comfortable  sad- 
dle, and  as  such  are  not  to  be  had  for  love  or 
money  in  the  interior  the  traveler  will  do  well 
to  bring  his  own  saddle  with  him,  purchasing 
it  in  Panama  City  if  necessary. 

In  order  to  transport  one's  luggage,  unless 


146  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PEESENT 

everything  is  carried  in  the  saddle-bags,  a  pack 
horse  is  required  for,  if  despatched  by  bull  oart, 
it  may  be  days  in  reaching  its  destination. 
Pack  horses  my  be  hired  very  cheaply  and  the 
^'peon"  or  driver  is  included  in  the  price  and 
will  not  only  serve  as  a  guide  but  will  look  after 
the  animals  and  will  return  with  them  to  the 
owner  when  one  reaches  the  end  of  the  journey. 

The  best  time  to  make  horseback  journeys 
through  the  interior,  as  far  as  comfort  is  con- 
cerned, is  at  night,  but  as  the  visitor  usually 
wishes  to  see  the  country  it  is  better  to  start 
early  in  the  morning,  which  enables  one  to  rest 
and  lunch  half  way  and  thus  avoid  traveling 
in  the  hottest  part  of  the  day. 

For  about  eight  miles  after  leaving  Agua 
Dulce  the  road  is  excellent,  straight,  smooth 
and  wide,  with  the  plains  stretching  inland  in 
rolhng,  grassy  imdulations  to  the  foothills, 
with  the  lofty  Cordilleras  blue  against  the  sky, 
and  dotted  with  little  clumps  of  trees  marking 
the  water  courses,  while,  on  the  left,  open  roll- 
ing country  extends  to  the  coastal  range  with 
the  sun  rising  in  gorgeous  glory  from  the 
Pacific.  Now  and  again  a  horseman  is  met, 
bespurred,  belegginged  and  broad  hatted  and 
with  his  diminutive  steed  hurrying  along  with 


THROUGH  VERAGUAS  147 

the  peculiar  half  single-foot,  half  lope  peculiar 
to  the  country. 

Constantly  one  meets  or  passes  the  big  lum- 
bering bull  carts  creaking  ponderously  under 
their  loads  of  cane  or  rum  or  miscellaneous 
goods,  drawn  by  two  or  four  great,  long-horned 
bulls  and  with  their  swarthy,  brigandish-look- 
ing  drivers  nodding  on  their  seats. 

Pedestrians  are  seen  too,  barefooted  or  san- 
daled, brown  or  yellow  of  skin,  fiercely  mus- 
tached  and  armed  with  wicked  looking  ma- 
chetes; but  one  and  all  smile  and  wish  the 
traveler  ^'buenas  dias,"  for  they  are  a  happy, 
good  natured,  peaceable  folk,  hospitable  and 
sociable  and  ever  ready  for  a  bit  of  gossip  or 
a  chat  ^\ith  a  stranger. 

Across  the  plains  a  soft,  cool  breeze  comes 
from  the  mountains ;  meadow  larks  sing  sweetly 
from  the  fence  posts;  little  flocks  of  ground 
doves  flutter  from  the  roadway;  graceful 
quaker-gray,  swallow-tailed  flycatchers  dart 
back  and  forth  as  they  capture  tiny  insects; 
bold-eyed  hawks  and  striped  carrion  buzzards 
look  disdainfully  down  from  the  telegraph 
poles  and,  ever}^vhore  in  the  deep  azure  sky, 
the  great  black  vultures  wheel  and  sail  on  tire- 
less pinions. 


148  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Then  the  road  crosses  a  big  iron  bridge,  there 
is  a  sharp  rise  and  at  the  fork  of  the  road 
one  conies  to  a  little  settlement  of  several 
thatched  huts  and  a  tiny  'dobe  fonda  or  way- 
side inn. 

''La  Estrella  del  Llanos,"  ''Star  of  The 
Plains,"  is  the  euphonious  name  of  this  God- 
forsaken spot  surrounded  by  bare  red  earth  and 
scanty  herbage  and  baking  beneath  the  rays  of 
the  ardent  sun  without  vestige  of  shade.  But 
welcome  indeed  it  is  to  the  thirsty  traveler,  for 
here  one  may  secure  excellent  water, — and 
more  ardent  beverages  if  desired, — as  well  as 
the  chance  to  rest  and  stretch  one's  legs  in  the 
single  earth-floored  room  or  in  the  shelter  of 
the  overhanging  roof. 

At  Estrella  the  road  divides,  the  branch  to 
the  left  leading  to  Santiago,  the  other  to  the  big 
Santa  Eosa  sugar  estate  and  then  on  to  San 
Francisco  and  the  villages  of  the  Cordilleras, — 
an  interesting  road  through  rugged,  pictur- 
esque country — crossing  tumbling  rivers  where 
one  must  swim  one's  horse;  meandering 
through  dense,  thorny  woods;  following  the 
verges  of  deep  ravines ;  passing"  through  narrow 
defiles  with  scarce  space  f-or  a  horse  to  pass; 
crossing   broad   prairies   where   no   trace   of 


THROUGH  VERAGUAS  149 

trail  exists;  leading  over  unspeakably  rough 
and  stony  plains  and  altogether  no  thorough- 
fare for  the  novice  to  follow  on  his  first  journey 
into  Veraguas. 

Beyond  p]strella  all  good  roads  are  left  be- 
hind,— although  the  sun^eys  and  preliminary 
work  on  the  new  motor  road  to  Santiago  are 
now  under  way, — and  for  hours,  one  travels 
through  a  rough,  rutty,  stony,  uncared  for 
gulley. 

At  times  the  road  is  is  so  bad  that  even  the 
natives  have  deserted  it,  and  in  preference, 
have  taken  to  the  open  country  and  one  follows 
the  cart  tracks  through  patches  of  woodland 
and  across  the  grassy  plains  in  long  detours 
where  a  stranger  may  easily  become  confused 
and  lose  his  way.  In  such  a  case  however,  it 
is  always  easy  to  regain  the  road  by  making  for 
the  telegraph  line  which  parallels  it,  although 
the  telegraph  wires  run  straight  or  nearly  so 
whereas  the  road  turns  and  twists  and  zig-zags 
and  doubles  on  itself  as  if  determined  to  make 
the  trip  as  long  and  tiresome  as  possible. 

It  is  seldom  however,  that  the  first  journey 
becomes  very  irksome  or  monotonous  to  one 
anxious  to  learn  something  of  the  Republic,  for 
there  is  always  something  new  to  be  seen  and 


150  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

the  character  of  the  country  is  so  different 
from  one 's  preconceived  ideas  of  Panama,  or  a 
tropical  land,  that  it  keeps  the  visitor's  in- 
terest. 

When  one  tires  of  the  seemingly  endless 
plains  one  may  turn  to  the  mountains  with  their 
distant  summits  rising  to  seven  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea  and  marvelous  in  their  color- 
ings of  gray,  and  green,  of  blue  and  mauve 
and  violet.  Or  again,  there  are  the  broad 
rivers,  spanned  with  American  iron  bridges,  but 
with  their  planking  so  neglected  and  so  full  of 
holes  that  one  must  literally  watch  one's  step, 
or,  if  fond  of  nature,  there  are  numerous  birds, 
the  great  lizards,  the  gaudy  butterflies  and  the 
odd  forms  of  plant  life. 

Here  and  there  also  are  bare  areas  of  bril- 
liant red,  yellow  and  purple  earth,  dotted  with 
agates,  while  often  one  rides  for  long  distances 
where  the  plains  and  roadsides)  are  covered 
with  silicified,  fossil  trees;  some  standing  as 
if  but  freshly  cut,  others  in  short,  smooth-ended 
sections  as  though  sawed  for  cordwood  and 
still  others  scattered  about  so  much  like  broken 
sticks  and  branches  that  one  cannot  believe  they 
are  flinty-hard  agate  until  closely  examined. 

Few    signs    of   human   beings   are    seen, — 


THROUGH  VERAGUAS  151 

a  single  thatched  hut  or  a  settlement  of  a  few 
niiserable  hovels  being  passed  at  long  inter- 
vals,— but  the  little  *'portreros"  of  cane,  plan- 
tains or  yams  and  the  scattered  herds  of  cattle 
and  horses  prove  that  human  beings  dwell  in 
the  vicinity.  But  as  a  whole  the  land  is  de- 
serted, the  rich  soil  of  the  foothills  and  river- 
sides is  a  waste  jof  brush  and  trees;  the  wide, 
grassy  prairies  support  only  a  few  hundred 
miserable  c^ittle  -and  the  few  natives  one  sees 
are  ragged,  dirty,  forlorn  looking  and  poverty 
stricken. 

From  three  to  five  hours  after  leaving  Agua 
Dulce,  depending  on  one's  mount  and  one's 
ability  as  a  horseman,  the  little  village  of 
Divisa  is  reached,  the  half-way  point,  where  it 
is  customarj^  for  the  traveler  to  rest  and  par- 
take of  refreshments  before  undertaking  the 
last,  and  in  some  ways  the  worst,  part  of  the 
trip.  Divisa  is  scarcely  a  village,  but  is  a  set- 
tlement of  scrattered  houses  covering  a  large 
area  and  with  quite  a  little  cultivated  land  and 
a  good  many  cattle. 

Here  there  is  a  telephone  and  telegraph  sta- 
tdon  and  two  so-called  ''fondas*'  which  are 
native  houses  where  certain  commodities  are 
sold,   where   one  may   find   fodder   for   one's 


152  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

mount  and  where  one  may  secure  a  very  fair 
meal  in  the  shape  of  fresh  eggs,  fowl,  milk, 
coffee  and  bread  with  fresh  cream-cheese  and 
usually  fruit.  Moreover,  the  traveler  may 
secure  accommodations  for  the  night,  but  it  is 
far  more  satisfactory  and  more  sanitary  to  sleep 
in  one's  own  hammock  stretched  beneath  the 
shelter  of  the  outjutting  roof,  for  flea-infested 
dogs,  razor-backed  pigs  and  innumerable  chick- 
ens and  pigeons  share  the  native  houses  with 
the  other  inmates. 

Beyond  Divisa  the  plains  grow  smaller;  ir- 
regular, sharp  hills  become  more  frequent ;  the 
road  is  even  rougher  and  worse  and  before  San- 
tiago is  reached  one  is  constantly  ascending 
and  descending  rugged  hillsides. 

But  at  last  one  comes  forth  from  the  hills  and 
ahead  sees  more  plains  sweeping  to  the  distant 
mountains  with  the  little  town  nestling  white 
and  red  upon  the  level  land,  and  a  few  minutes 
later  the  horse 's  hoofs  clatter  over  the  roughly 
cobbled  streets  and  between  the  quaint  adobe- 
walled  and  red-tiled  houses  of  old  Santiago  de 
Veraguas. 

To-day  Santiago  is  of  little  importance,  a 
town  of  some  five  or  six  thousand  inhabitants, 
of  low,  one-storied,  typically  Spanish  American 


THE  ANCIENT  CHURCH  IN  SANTIAGO,  VERAGUAS 


GIANT    ANT-HILLS    ON    THE    PLAINS,    COCLE 


THROUGH  VERAGUAS  153 

buildings,  of  cobbled,  grass-grown  streets.  A 
sleepy,  ancient  town  with  picturesque  inhabit- 
ants, a  pretty  plaza  and  a  fine  old  church  whose 
tower, — more's  the  pity — has  recently  been 
torn  down  and  rebuilt  in  liideous  modern  style. 

In  the  past,  however,  Santiago  was  second 
only  to  Panama  in  its  wealth  and  importance. 
Situated  in  the  richest  gold  producing  district 
in  the  world  at  that  time,  the  to-svn  was  the 
center  of  culture  and  society.  Rich  and  prom- 
inent families  of  old  Spain  dwelt  here  in 
princely  style;  its  slave  market,  its  stores  and 
its  industries  brought  trade  from  far  and  near 
and  from  the  mines  and  placers  of  the  sur- 
rounding hills  gold  in  millions  flowed  into  San- 
tiago to  eventually  be  shipped  to  Spain. 

So  great  was  the  commercial  prominence  of 
Santiago  that  merchants  came  from  Costa  Rica 
and  other  countries  to  purchase  goods  in  the 
Santiago  markets  and  the  Santiago  merchants 
in  their  turn  made  long  journeys  to  Jamaica, 
England,  Spain  and  even  to  the  United  States 
to  purchase  stocks  for  which  they  paid  in  raw 
Veraguas  gold.  Even  during  the  last  century 
ships  sailed  from  New  York  for  Santiago  di- 
rect, anchoring  in  Montijo  Bay,  whence  the 
cargoes  were  carried  by  ox  cart  and  mule  train 


154  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

to  the  city.  Indeed,  Santiago's  prominence 
and  wealth  continued  long  after  the  other  in- 
terior cities  had  fallen  into  decadence  and  up 
to  1850  practically  all  the  commerce  of  the  Isth- 
mus was  in  gold  won  from  the  mines  about 
Santiago.  It  is  impossible  to  say  just  how 
much  gold  has  been  taken  from  the  Veraguas 
mines  and  placers,  but  it  must  be  incalculable. 
In  1570  over  two  thousand  slaves  were  em- 
ployed in  Veraguas  mines  while  records  show 
that  at  that  time  from  eight  hundred  to  one 
thousand  pounds  of  gold  were  taken  annually 
from  the  mines  of  the  district.  Still  a  better 
idea  of  the  vast  amounts  of  precious  metal  pro- 
duced by  Veraguas  may  be  obtained  from  the 
old  treasury  bills.  In  the  Spanish  days  the 
Crown  received  a  *'quinto"  or  five  per  cent,  of 
the  gold  exported  and,  by  examining  the  old 
accounts,  we  find  that  in  one  year  the  Crown 
received  over  20,000  Castillanos  as  its  share  so, 
in  other  words,  not  less  than  forty  thousand 
pounds  or  two  tons  of  solid  gold  were  exported 
annually  from  Veraguas  J  And  this  does  not 
include  the  gold  which  went  into  private  pock- 
ets or  to  the  Church,  and  the  Church  received  a 
very  large  share. 

This  being  the  case  the  question  at  onoe 


THROUGH  VERAGUAS  155 

arises  as  to  why  Verguas  produces  practically 
no  gold  to-day.    There  are  several  reasons  for 
this.    In  the  first  place,  the  Spaniards  worked 
their  mines  with  Indian  slaves  and  later  with 
negro  slaves  and  labor  cost  them  nothing  aside 
from  the  poor  food  and  poorer  quarters  fur- 
nished the  men.     Oftentimes  the  Indian  slaves 
revolted,  killed  the   Spaniards  and  destroyed 
the  mines  while  the  negroes  ran  away.     Then 
came  the  unsettled  times  when  Spain's  colonies 
were   struggling  for  independence   and  mines 
were  abandoned,  owners  were  killed  in  battle, 
slaves  were  freed  and  all  industries  were  upset. 
About  1849-50  the  advent  of  the  Calif  ornian  Ar- 
gonauts and  the  Panama  Railway  caused  food 
stuffs  and  other  supplies  to  be  so  greatly  in 
demand  that  prices  reached  heights  where  they 
were  practically  prohibitive  in  the  interior  and 
mines   were   given  up   as   they   could   not   be 
profitably  worked.     Finally,  many  of  the  rich- 
est of  the  old  mines  were  placers  and  were 
worked  out,  but  the  methods  used  in  those  days 
were  very  crude  and  many  of  the  abandoned 
mines  could  be  worked  at  a  good  profit  to-day. 
No  doubt  richer  deposits  than  ever  known  are 
still  hidden  in  the  mountains  and  hills  of  Ver- 
aguas,  for  the  pro\ince  iii  marv'elously  rich  and 


156  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

certain  sections  are  perhaps  more  highly  min- 
eralized than  any  other  part  of  Spanish  Amer- 
ica, if  not  of  the  world.  Aside  from  gold,  silver, 
copper,  iron,  tin,  lead,  zinc,  bismuth,  antimony, 
mercury,  manganese  and  oil  are  all  known  to 
exist  in  paying  quantities  in  Veraguas. 

It  was  in  Veraguas  too,  that  the  lost  Tisingal 
Mine  was  located,  which,  if  we  are  to  believe 
the  old  records,  was  the  richest  mine  the  world 
has  ever  known.  Having  been  destroyed  by 
the  Indian  slaves,  who  revolted  and  massacred 
their  Spanish  masters,  the  Tisingal  has  been 
lost  to  man,  and  almost  to  memory,  for  cen- 
turies, but  time  and  again  some  wanderer  has 
reported  finding  it  and  expedition  after  expedi- 
tion has  gone  forth  to  locate  it.  Some  have 
been  destroyed  by  sickness  and  by  Indians, 
some  have  never  been  heard  from  and  the  lost 
mine  still  remains,  hidden  deep  within  the 
Veraguas  hills  forever,  unless  some  fortunate 
being  finds  its  secret  and  thereby  becomes  a 
millionaire. 

As  there  are  really  fairly  good  hotels  in  San- 
tiago and  as  all  about  are  interesting  trips  and 
towns,  it  is  an  excellent  place  to  select  as  head- 
quarters while  traveling  about  the  district. 
From  here  roads  lead  to  San  Francisco  de  la 


THROUGH  VERAGUAS  157 

Montaiia, — a  mountain  iovni  about  ten  miles 
distant  and  which  can  boast  an  ancient  church 
built  in  1522  and  probably  the  oldest  inhabited 
structure  in  continental  America.  This  church 
alone  is  well  worth  a  trip,  for  it  is  entirely  fur- 
nished with  altars,  pulpits,  shrines,  fonts,  rere- 
(los  and  other  fixtures  of  native  cedar  carved 
by  the  old  Mission  Indians,  and  the  combination 
of  Indian  and  ecclesiastical  design  is  ver>'  re- 
markable. It  also  contains  some  tattered  but 
fine  old  Spanish  paintings  and  tapestrj',  while 
beneath  it,  so  tradition  says,  is  a  fortune  in  raw 
gold, — twenty  pounds  being  buried  beneath 
each  of  its  supporting  pillars  of  which  there 
are  about  fifty.  Aside  from  the  church,  San 
Francisco  itself  holds  little  of  interest,  but  near 
by  there  is  wonderfully  grand  and  beautiful 
scenery  with  dashing  rivers  and  roaring  cat- 
aracts, such  as  Carabali  Falls  where  a  good- 
sized  stream  drops  over  a  sheer  precipice  three 
hundred  feet  in  height. 

From  San  Francisco  also,  one  may  visit  the 
hot  springs  of  Calobre  or  the  old  towm  of  Santa 
Fe  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Cordilleras.  La  Mesa, 
Las  Tablas  and  many  other  old  mountain  towns 
are  within  easy  reach  while,  not  far  from  Santa 
Fe,  is  the  so  called  "Lake  of  Death,"  a  weird 


158  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

and  lonely  pool  among  the  hills;— -a  strange 
forsaken  place ;  a  lake  of  milky  water  a  draught 
of  which  spells  almost  instant  death.  All 
about  its  blackened,  muddy  shores  are  strewn 
the  bleached  bones  of  countless  birds  and  beasts 
which,  unwittingly,  have  come  to  drink  and  have 
succumbed  upon  the  spot.  Even  flies  and  other 
insects,  which  alight  upon  the  shores,  are 
stricken  ere  they  can  take  wing.  No  wonder 
superstitious  natives  look  upon  it  as  something 
supernatural  and  to  be  avoided,  for  truly  it  is  a 
most  uncanny,  repulsive,  but  none  the  less  in- 
teresting phenomenon. 

In  the  other  direction  from  Santiago  are 
roads  leading  far  across  the  plains  to  Sona  and 
Las  Palmas  and  to  Tole  and  Remedies  in 
Chiriqui ;  fine  and  interesting  journeys  for  those 
fond  of  rougihing  it  and  who  are  tireless  horse- 
men, but  scarcely  to  be  recommended  as  pleas- 
ure jaunts  for  the  ordinary  visitor  to  the 
Isthmus. 

Still  another  road  leads  to  Puerto  Mutis, 
where  one  may  meet  the  coastwise  steamer  for 
Panama  and  thus  make  the  round  trip  without 
covering  the  same  ground  twice  while,  most  in- 
teresting of  all,  are  the  trails  leading  out  from 
Santiago  to  the  quaint,  nearby  villages  such  as 


THROUGH  VERAGUAS  159 

La  Colorada;  villages  where  time  has  stood 
still,  where  one  seems  to  have  stepped  back  four 
hundred  years  to  the  days  of  Pedrarias  and 
Nicuesa. 

These  Ullages,  which  have  remained  prac- 
tically unchanged  for  centuries,  are  in  sharp 
contrast  to  the  majority  of  interior  villages,  for 
they  are  neat  and  clean  with  their  little  adobe 
and  thatched  houses  built  in  a  square  or  rec- 
tangle around  an  immense  public  green  or 
portrero. 

Many  of  the  houses  are  of  wood,  often  they 
have  roofs  of  old  Spanish  tiles,  they  are  well 
separated  and  surrounded  by  corrals  and 
flower  gardens  and  are  shaded  with  magnificent 
trees,  with  here  and  there  a  slender  coconut 
palm  waving  its  fronds  in  the  gentle  breeze. 

In  the  center  of  the  big  plaza  stands  the  an- 
cient, weather-beaten  church,  built  by  the  long- 
dead  friars  who  accompanied  the  conquista- 
dores  when  they  hewed  their  way  into  the  in- 
terior, and  despite  the  forays  of  the  Indians, 
founded  the  little  settlements  which  still  re- 
main and  wherein  one  still  finds  the  names  of 
the  old  hidalgos  perpetuated  in  their  descend- 
ants of  to-day.  Patriarchal  and  almost  commu- 
nistic are  these  \illages,  with  little  recognition 


160  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

of  the  Republic's  sovereignty,  the  local 
Alcade  or  Corregidor  being  merely  a  figure- 
head, while  the  headman, — usually  the  eldest 
member  of  the  most  important  family,  is 
supreme.  Among  the  five  or  six  hundred  in- 
habitants of  one  of  these  villages  one  seldom 
finds  more  than  five  or  six  families  and  al- 
though they  have  intermarried  for  generations 
yet  they  are  a  splendid  race  physically,  the 
men  often  six  feet  or  more,  strong  and  robust ; 
the  women  often  handsome  and  with  fine  figures 
and  with  both  men  and  Women  often  fair  haired 
and  blue  eyed.  Of  pure  Spanish  blood,  the  old 
families  that  dwell  in  these  isolated  villages 
still  speak  Oastillian,  they  dress  as  did  their 
ancestors  in  the  days  of  Balboa, — the  men  in 
loose  blouses  and  short  trousers  of  homespun 
cotton;  the  women  in  the  attractive  *'Pollera" 
seen  only  during  carnival  time  in  Panama  and 
Colon.  They  use  the  ancient  **cross"  money  of 
the  days  of  the  buccaneers;  their  saddles  are 
patterned  after  those  of  the  Spaniards;  they 
still  use  the  brass,  shoe-shaped  stirrups  of  the 
caballeros  or  the  silver  stirrups  of  the  Moors 
and  many  of  them  still  possess  the  old  Toledo 
swords  which  have  been  handed  down  from 
their  ancestors, — proud  grandees  of  old  Spain. 


THROUGH  VERAGUAS  161 

Temperate,  honest  and  industrious, — in  many 
of  the  villages  no  liquor  is  permitted, — these 
people  are  a  delightful  contrast  to  their  neigh- 
bors, but  even  they,  owing  to  the  fact  that  their 
wants  are  few  and  easily  satisfied,  do  not  culti- 
vate the  crops  nor  raise  the  cattle  which  they 
might  easily  do.    But  there  is  no  real  poverty 
among  them ;  all  are  well-to-do  as  far  as  horses, 
cattle,  rice  fields,  grazing  land,  gardens  and 
houses  are  concerned,  and  as  everything  they 
eat,  wear,  need  or  use  is  gro^vn,  raised  or 
made  by  themselves  they  never  need  stir  from 
the  vicinity  of  their  native  villages  unless  from 
choice.     Seldom  indeed  do  strangers  visit  them. 
Once  or  twice  a  year  the  Padre  goes  his  rounds, 
baptizes  those  who  have  been  born,  marries 
those  who  desire  it,  says  prayers  for  the  souls 
of  the  departed ;  christens  and  confesses  and  ab- 
solves and  goes  his  way.     Twice  a  year  too,  at 
Christmas    and    during   Carnival   time,    these 
people  celebrate  with  dances,  music,  feasts  and 
masquerades.    Out    door    sports,    games    and 
tests  of  strength  and  skill  are  held;  there  are 
rodeos  with  bull-dogging,  bull  riding,  lassoing 
and  other  contests  among  the  young  men,  and 
these  events,  with  their  daily  toil,  their  gossip 
and  their  leisure  make  up  their  lives. 


162  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Nations  may  rise  and  fall,  great  wars  may 
be  fought  and  peace  made;  the  outside  world 
may  marvel  at  some  wonderful  invention ;  man 
may  conquer  the  air  or  the  deep  sea;  pesti- 
lences may  sweep  off  thousands  or  some  great 
cataclysm  may  destroy  whole  cities;  but  these 
happy  people  neither  know  nor  care.  Their 
world  is  their  village  and  no  doubt  a  century 
hence  they  will  still  be  living  as  they  are  to- 
day;— as  they  did  three  centuries  and  more 
ago. 


CHAPTER  X 

HERE  AND  THEBE  IN  CHIBIQUI 

The  sanitorium  of  Panama.  How  to  reach  Chiriqui. 
Steamer  to  Chiriqui.  Passing  Punta  Mahi.  Coiba  the 
penal  colony.  Strange  sea  snakes.  Charming  islands. 
Bahia  Honda.  An  ideal  spot.  Remedios  and  its  people. 
The  Sabaneros.  An  unknown  race.  A  strange  custom. 
Roads  from  Tole.  Pedregal.  The  Chiriqui  Railway. 
David.  Country  about  David.  From  David  to  Boquete. 
Resources  of  Chiriqui.  A  wonderful  country.  Trees  and 
plants.  The  Quetzal.  The  Guacas  or  Indian  graves.  Loot- 
ing the  graves.  A  forgotten  race.  Wild  Indians  of 
Chiriqui.  The  province  of  Bocas  del  Toro.  Almirante. 
What  the  Fruit  Company  has  done.     Oil  companies. 

Containing  within  its  borders  the  highest 
mountains  of  the  Isthmus,  blessed  with  a 
wonderful  climate  and  possessing  marvelously 
beautiful  scenery  and  innumerable  attrac- 
tions, Chiriqui  province  may  well  be  called 
the  sanitorium  of  Panama. 

Unfortunately  however,  it  is  not  easy  of  ac- 
cess and  accommodations  for  visitors  are  lim- 
ited to  the  Hotel  Lino,  conducted  by  Americans 
and  charmingly  situated  at  Boquete  nearly  four 
thousand  feet  above  sea  level. 

To  visit  Chiriqui  one  must  travel  for  twenty- 
four  hours  or  more  on  one  of  the  little  Pan- 
amanian coasting  steamers,  and  even  after  en- 

163 


164  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

during  hardships  entailed  by  this,  one  must 
be  prepared  for  still  greater  discomforts  ere 
the  hotel  is  reached. 

The  voyage  by  steamer  may  be  made  either 
direct  from  Panama  City  or,  if  one  has  traveled 
through  Veraguas  and  can  make  the  connec- 
tion, the  steamer  to  Chiriqui  may  be  taken  at 
Puerto  Mutis,  as  the  vessels  at  times  stop 
there  en  route.  But  as  the  schedules  of  these 
little  ships  are  never  twice  alike,  and  as  the 
agents  in  Panama  seldom  can  tell  what  they 
will  be  in  advance,  it  is  a  wise  plan  to  take 
passage  from  the  capital. 

Passing  close  to  Taboga,  and  in  the  lee  of 
the  shore,  the  sail  across  the  Bay  of  Panama 
is  smooth  and  pleasant  until  Punta  Mala  is 
reached. 

Here  it  is  almost  always  rough  and  one  real- 
izes, as  the  tiny  steamer  is  tossed  and  buffeted 
about  and  creaks  and  protests  in  every  joint, 
why  the  cape  was  given  its  suggestive  name  of 
''Bad  Point."  But  the  rough  water  is  of  short 
duration  and  beyond  the  cape  the  sea  is  again 
tranquil  with  numerous  islands  looming  upon 
the  horizon  ahead.  Many  of  these  are  large  and 
heavily  wooded,  the  largest  being  Coiba  nearly 
fifty  miles  in  length  and  now  the  site  of  the  Re- 


HERE  AND  THERE  IN  CHIRIQUI     165 

public's  penal  colony  and  a  regular  point  of  call 
for  the  coastwise  steamers. 

In  the  waters  about  Coiba  one  often  may  see 
vast  numbers  of  sea  snakes,  ti'ue  sea  serpents 
in  miniature,  spotted  yellow  and  browTi  crea- 
tures whose  bite  is  deadly  and  which  swarm 
in  countless  thousands  in  these  seas  and 
are  eagerly  preyed  upon  by  great  flocks  of 
frigate  birds,  gannets,  gulls  and  pelicans,  which 
swoop  do^^^l  from  above,  and  by  schools  of  por- 
poises and  an  occasional  whale  which  attack 
from  below.  Indeed,  when  one  sees  the  num- 
bers of  birds  and  cetaceans  feeding  upon  the 
serpents  one  marvels  that  any  of  the  reptiles 
can  survive.  Here  too,  one  often  may  see 
giant  devil  fish  or  rays,  fifteen  or  twenty  feet 
across  their  wing — like  fins,  as  they  leap  yards 
in  the  air  and  crash  into  the  sea  in  a  shower 
of  spray. 

Beyond  Coiba  are  more  islands,  channing, 
picturesque,  wooded  spots;  delightful  sites  for 
residences  with  their  water-carved  grottoes 
and  caverns,  their  tiny  beaches  and  luxuriant 
foliage,  while  the  waters  about  teem  with  fish, 
the  reefs  are  covered  with  pearl  shells  and  on 
the  neighboring  mainland  is  abundant  game. 
Almost  abreast  of  Coiba  lies  Bahia  Honda, 


166  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

probably    the    finest    natural    harbor    on    the 
Pacific  coast  of  America,  and  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  spots  in  the  world.  Almost  landlocked, 
with  precipitous,  rocky  islets  guarding  its  en- 
trance, Bahia  Honda  forms  a  huge,  semi-circu- 
lar bay  reaching  miles  into  the  land  and  with 
deep  water  within  a  fe^v  yards  of  its  shores. 
On  every  side  rise  verdured  hills  stretching 
away  to  cloud  draped  mountain  summits,  while 
between  them  are  glorious,  green  valleys  smil- 
ing in  the  sun  and  watered  by  crystal  streams. 
The  land  is  marvelously  fertile,  the  forests  are 
filled  with  valuable  timber,  game  abounds,  the 
waters  teem  with  fish  and  pearl  shell  and  there 
is  mineral  wealth  in  the  hills.    One  cannot  im- 
agine a  more  perfect  site  for  a  great  winter 
resort  hotel,  for  here  are  ideal  conditions  for 
boating,  bathing,  out-of-door  sports,  hunting, 
fishing  and  indeed  every  attraction ;  but  to-day 
it  is  almost  forsaken  and  uninhabited;  a  few 
scattered  huts  being  the  only  signs  of  man. 
Beyond  Coiba  and  back  of  the  islands,  lies 
Remedios,    sometimes   made    a   point   of   call, 
and  here  one  may  often  see  numbers  of  the 
strange  aborigines  of  this  district, — the  brown- 
skinned,   Sabanero  Indians  ^  whose  ancestors 

1  These  Indians  have  often  been  miscalled  Guaimes  and 


HERE  AND  THERE  IN  CHIRIQUI     167 

defied  the  Spaniards  and  defeated  them  in  fair 
battle  for  many  years,  and  who,  to  this  day, 
still  hold  their  own  territory  back  in  the  Cor- 
dilleras and  permit  no  strangers  within  their 
borders.  Little  is  kno^vn  of  them  or  their  cns- 
toms  and  no  one  knows  just  who  they  are  or 
their  relationship;  but  it  is  supposed  that  they 
are  of  the  race  whose  ancestors  antedated  the 
Mayas  and  the  Aztecs  and  who  were  forced 
southward  by  the  advance  of  these  more  cul- 
tured races  from  the  north,  for  Aztec  colonics 
reached  as  far  as  Bocas  del  Toro  on  the  At- 
lantic and  the  southward  limit  of  the  Mayas 
is  yet  undetermined. 

The  Indians  that  one  sees  about  Remedies 
and  Tole  however,  are  semi-civilized,  degen- 
erate tribesmen  who  have  deserted  their  wdld 
brothers  of  the  mountains  to  dwell  in  and  about 
the  towns;  but  all  have  their  teeth  filed  to 
needle-like  points,  many  are  tattooed  and  their 
queer  costumes  of  cotton  cloth,  stamped  in 
crude  figures  of  various  colors,  always  serve  to 
identify  them.  At  certain  seasons  of  the  year 
these  Indians  hold  festivals  and  dances  for 
which  they  dress  themselves  in  weird  costumes 

confused  with  the  latter.  In  reality  the  name  Guaime  ap- 
plies to  a  race  which  includes  a  number  of  distinct  tribes. 


168  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

and  wear  immense,  grotesque  masks  adorned 

with  horns  and  animals'  skulls. 

Their  peculiar  custom  of  filing  their  teeth 
to  points  has  also  been  adopted  by  many  of 
the   Panamanians   in   Veraguas   and   Chiriqui 
and  in  many  districts  every  man,  woman  and 
child  has  these  triangular-pointed  teeth.    Al- 
though ordinarily  called  ** filed"  yet,  in  real- 
ity, the  teeth  are  not  filed  but  chipped  off  by 
placing  a  dull  knife  behind  the  tooth  and  tap- 
ping the  front  surface  of  the  tooth  with  a  stone. 
It  must  of  necessity  be  extremely  painful  and 
one  would  imagine  that  the  teeth  so  treated 
would    soon   decay    and   be    ruined;    but    the 
people  claim  that  the  reverse  is  the  case,  that 
teeth  'pointed   in   this   way   last   longer   than 
others  and  that  it  is  for  the  purpose  of  pre- 
serving the  teeth  that  they  have  them  sharp- 
ened.    Moreover,   their  claims  appear  to   be 
substantiated  by  evidence,  for  I  have  never 
seen  a  person  with  pointed  teeth  which  were 
decayed  and  I  have  known  many  very  old  men 
and   women   whose    artificially    pointed    teeth 
were  as  sound  and  perfect  as  possible. 

From  Tole  roads  conneot  with  Santiago  de 
Veraguas  and  also  with  David  the  capital  of 
Chiriqui  so  that  it  is  possible  to  ride  all  the 


HERE  AND  THERE  IN  CHIRIQUI     1G9 

way  from  Panama  City  to  David;  but  it  is  a 
long,  tiresome,  difficult  jouniey  full  of  hard- 
ships and  the  trip  by  steamer  is  one  of  ab- 
solute luxurj"  by  comparison. 

The  port  of  entr>'  for  Chiriqui  is  Pedregal, 
four  and  one  half  miles  from  the  capital, 
David,  ^\'ith  which  it  is  connected  by  the  Chir- 
iqui Railway.  This  road  which  is  of  narrow 
gauge  construction  and  extends  inland  to 
Boquete,  32  miles  distant,  is  a  burlesque  of  a 
railway,  for  nine  times  out  of  ten  one  finds  that 
it  is  not  operating  and  that  motor  car,  hand 
car  or  horseback  are  the  only  means  of  reach- 
ing one's  destination.  Quite  recently  how- 
ever, the  government  has  taken  steps  to  make 
this  road  a  transporation  system  in  fact  as 
well  as  in  name  and  competent  engineers  have 
been  sent  to  make  a  report  and  recommen- 
dations as  to  what  should  be  done,  so  by  the 
time  this  book  is  published  it  may  be  possible 
to  depend  upon  the  railway  to  reach  Boquete. 

David,  the  third  most  important  city  of 
Panama,  is  of  comparatively  recent  origin  and 
is  most  beautifully  situated  in  a  Avide,  luxuri- 
ant valley  with  the  foothills  rising  upwards 
to  the  cloud-piercing  heights  of  Chiriqui  Vol- 
cano nearly  eight  thousand  feet  above  the  sea. 


170  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

The  town  is  well  laid  out,  with  wide,  straight 
streets;  there  are  many  excellent  stores  and 
fine  residences,  a  pretty  plaza  and  a  popula- 
tion of  about  six  thousand  people,  nearly  all 
of  whom  are  of  Spanish  descent. 

As  one  travels  from  David  to  Boquete  the 
wonderful  fertility  of  the  soil,  the  excep- 
tional opportunities  for  cattle  raising,  agri- 
culture and  development,  are  everywhere  evi- 
dent. Prom  the  coast,  the  country  rises  in 
broad  plateaus,  like  a  series  of  terraces,  at 
elevations  of  from  one  to  two  thousand  feet, 
to  the  foothills  and  everywhere  covered  with 
deep,  rich,  black  soil  and  bearing  a  most  lux- 
uriant vegetation. 

Although  so  far  from  Panama  and  with 
such  poor  transportation  facilities,  yet  Chir- 
iqui  to-day  has  a  greater  area  of  well  cultivated 
land  than  any  other  district,  and  still  it  is 
almost  untouched  and  undeveloped.  Rubber, 
cocoa,  coffee,  tobacco  and  all  tropical  crops, 
as  well  as  everything  grown  in  temperate 
zones,  may  be  raised  to  perfection  in  Chiri- 
qui,  for  there  is  every  possible  variety  of  soil 
and  climate.  On  the  hills  and  highlands  are 
vast  quantities  of  valuable  timber,  while  on  the 
mountains  are  forests  of  oak,  and  the  min- 


A  VERAGUAS  COWBOY 


LA  PALMA,  DARIEN 


HERE  AND  THERE  IN  CHIRIQUI     171 

eral  wealth  is  tremendous,  although  absolutely 
untouched. 

In  traveling  from  David  to  Boquete,  one 
passes  through  a  charming  country  with  forests 
of  great  trees  rising  to  one  hmidred  feet  or 
more,  ablaze  with  scarlet,  mauve,  yellow 
and  white  and  hung  with  air  plants,  orchids 
and  trailing  lianas.  Here,  on  these  mountains 
with  their  dense  oak  forests,  rushing  streams 
and  roaring  cataracts,  is  the  home  of  the 
famed  Quetzal  or  Resplendent  Trogan  the 
sacred  bird  of  the  Aztecs  and  rivaling  in  beauty 
the  birds  of  Paradise  with  its  yard-long  tail 
and  fern-like  wing  covers  of  metallic,  emerald 
green,  its  recurved  crest  and  its  scarlet  breast. 

Here  too,  in  ages  past,  dwelt  vast  numbers 
of  a  long  dead  and  forgotten  Ta.ee  whose 
graves  or  "guacas"  lie  scattered  about  and 
which  have  provided  many  a  native  with'  a 
source  of  revenue,  for  they  all  contain  pottery, 
stone  weapons,  stone  stools  and  similar  objects 
and  many  have  ornaments  and  implements  of 
solid  gold. 

Indeed,  guaca  opening  is  one  of  the  divert- 
isements  of  the  visitor  to  Chiriqui  and  while 
one  may  open  a  number  of  the  ancient  graves 
without    being   rewarded   with   golden   curios, 


172  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

still  there  is  always  the  chance,  the  excitement 
and  thrill  of  treasure  hunting,  the  gambling 
fascination  of  not  knowing  what  may  be  re- 
vealed when  the  last  stones  are  removed  and  the 
resting  place  of  the  long  dead  chief  is  exposed. 

Although  countless  thousands  of  these  gua- 
cas  have  been  opened  .and  looted  of  their  con- 
tents there  still  remain  uncounted  thousands. 
At  one  time,  opening  the  graves  became  a 
systematized  and  regular  vocation  and  it  is 
said  on  good  authority  that  over  half  a  million 
dollars  worth  of  gold  has  been  taken  from  the 
guacas  of  Chiriqui.  It  is  deeply  to  be  re- 
gretted that  the  government  has  not  taken 
steps  to  prevent  the  ruthless  destruction  of 
these  graves  and  their  contents,  for  they  are 
of  great  scientific  value  and  should  be  pre- 
served and  only  opened  under  strictly  compe- 
tent supervision  and  for  bona  fide  scientific 
purposes. 

Very  little  is  known  of  the  race  which  left 
these  graves,  for  they  have  been  but  little  stud- 
ied, and  likewise,  little  or  nothing  is  known  of 
the  existing  Indians  who  still  inhabit  the  fast- 
nesses of  the  Cordilleras  of  Chiriqui.  The 
government  estimates  the  number  of  aborigines 
in  the  province  at  ten  thousand,  but  this  in- 


HERE  AND  THERE  IN  CHIRIQUI    173 

eludes  only  those  who  are  semi-civilized  or 
peaceful  and  there  are  unquestionably  as  many 
more  who  still  live  the  primitive  life  of  their 
ancestors  and  who  have  always  been  *'j^ravos" 
or  enemies  of  outsiders. 

Weird  tales  are  told  of  great  cities  of  strange 
people  buried  in  the  heart  of  the  mountains, 
of  the  ''blancos"  or  white  Indians  who  kill  all 
who  approach  their  territory  and  of  fierce 
tribes  who  are  head  hunters,  and  while  these 
all  may  be  figments  of  the  semi-civilized 
Indians'  imaginations,  still  there  may  be  a 
good  foundation  of  truth  in  the  stories.  It  is 
not  impossible  that  some  remnants  of  the  an- 
cient ciWlization  of  the  Aztecs  or  Mayas  still 
survive  within  the  Cordilleras ;  it  may  be  quite 
within  reason  that  the  race  which  left  the  gua- 
cas  with  their  wonderful  pottery  and  the 
strangely-wrought  golden  trinkets,  may  still 
live  and  carry  on  its  old  habits,  life  and  ways 
in  the  remote  districts  of  Chiriqui  and  the 
''blancos"  may  be  a  race  which  made  captives 
of  Spanish  men  or  women  and  that  the 
white  blood  has  gradually  conquered  the  red 
until  the  race  to-day  actually  is  white. 

No  one  can»say,  no  one  has  a  right  to  say, 
what  is  or  is  not  in  an  unknown,  unexplored 


174  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PEESENT 

district,  for  all  is  conjecture  and  the  untrodden 
interior  of  Panama  may  hide  undreamed  of 
secrets. 

Across  the  Cordilleras  from  Chiriqui, — 
bounding  Chiriqui  on  the  north  and  bordering 
on  Costa  Eica, — is  the  province  of  Bocas  del 
Toro,  a  fertile  and  rich  district  which  has  been 
exploited  by  the  United  Fruit  Company  which 
has  enormous  banana  and  cocoa  plantations 
here.  This  company  has  built  docks  and  piers 
at  the  town  of  Almirante  on  Almirante  Bay;  it 
has  established  hospitals  and  a  wireless  station 
ajid  operates  a  railway  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  in  length.  Aside  from  the  Fruit 
Company's  plantations,  and  the  operations  of 
an  oil  company  seeking  the  oil  which  exists 
here,  and  the  beauties  of  Almirante  Bay,  there 
is  httle  to  interest  the  stranger  at  Bocas  del 
Toro,  the  Panamanian  town  of  that  name,  and 
which  is  the  capital  of  the  province,  being  a 
small,  but  attractive  place  of  about  five  thou- 
sand inhabitants. 

However,  Bocas  del  Toro  and  Almirante  are 
easy  of  access  as  the  ships  of  the  United  Fruit 
Company  make  it  a  regular  point  of  call  and,  in 
addition,  launches  and  sail  boats  make  regular 
trips  to  and  from  Colon. 


CHAPTER  XI 

DARIEN    THE    UNKNOWN 

The  least  kno^vn  part  of  Panama.  Journeyinir  to  Darien. 
From  Panama  to  Garacliine.  Garacliine  a  forlorn  town. 
Scenery  of  San  Miguel  Gulf.  La  Palma.  A  disappoint- 
ment. People  of  Darien.  Forest  riches  of  Darien. 
Chipogana  and  El  Real.  Poverty  stricken  towns.  In- 
habitants of  El  Real.  The  aborigines,  Cbokois  and  Kunas. 
Exaggerated  tales.  Fallacies  and  mistakes.  Who  the  San 
Bias  are.  The  wild  Kunas.  The  forbidden  district.  Life 
and  habits  of  the  Kuna.s.  Experiences  among  the  Kunas. 
The  Chokois.  A  trip  to  the  Chokoi  villages.  Up  the  Tuira 
River.  River  travel.  Life  and  scenery  along  the  river. 
Game.  Pinogana.  The  first  Indians.  At  the  Chokoi  vil- 
lage. Home  life  of  the  Chokois.  Dances  and  customs. 
Into  the  forbidden  district.  The  Darien  mine.  Riches  of 
Darien.  The  lost  city.  Up  the  Chucunaque.  Yaviza. 
Old  ruins.  Across  Darien  to  the  Atlantic.  What  the  old 
Dons  did. 

Of  all  portions  of  Panama  the  Darien  dis- 
trict is  the  least  kno\vn,  the  richest  in  natural 
resources,  the  most  difficult  of  access,  the  most 
intimately  associated  with  the  early  history  of 
the  Isthmus  and  the  first  portion  occupied  by 
Europeans. 

Originally  the  term  Darien  was  applied  to  all 
that  portion  not  included  in  Voraguas;  but  to- 
day it  is  confined  to  that  portion  of  the  prov- 

175 


176  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PEESENT 

inces  of  Panama  and  Colon  lying  between  the 
Bayano  River  and  the  Colombian  frontier.  In- 
deed, strictly  speaking,  it  is  an  area  rather 
than  a  district,  for  it  has  no  definite  bounda- 
ries and  no  political,  geographical  or  official 
status  or  existence. 

A  very  large  portion  of  this  area  is  so  totally 
unknown  and  unexplored  that  it  is  of  interest 
only  to  the  scientist,  the  lumberman,  the  pros- 
pector, or  the  hunter  and  can  only  be  visited  by 
those  accustomed  to  enduring  hardships  and 
the  roughest  of  out-of-doors  life.  But  there  is 
much  of  Darien  which  can  be  visited  with  com- 
paratively little  discomfort  and  these  portions 
hold  the  greatest  interests  for  the  layman. 

To  reach  Darien  the  traveler  sjhould  take 
steamer  or  launch  from  Panama  City  for  Gar- 
achine,  La  Palma,  Chipogana  or  El  Eeal,  the 
port  selected  depending  entirely  upon  whether 
the  vessel  stops  there  or  not,  the  last  named 
port  being  the  furthest  inland  and  the  most 
desirable  as  a  starting  point  for  the  interior. 

Little  need  be  said  of  the  trip  across  the  Bay 
of  Panama  and  along  the  coast  to  the  en- 
trance of  San  Miguel  Gulf,  for  it  is  but  a  repiti- 
tion  of  all  the  other  malodorous,  uncomfort- 
able trips  by  Panamanian  coastal  steamers. 


DARIEN  THE  UNKNOWN         177 

Garachinc,  the  first  port  of  call  on  the  east- 
erly shore  of  San  Miguel  Gulf,  is  a  miserable 
spot,  a  collection  of  flimsy  cane  huts  built  along 
the  narrow  strip  of  beach  between  the  water 
and  a  vast  swamp.  During  the  dry  season  it  is 
not  so  bad,  but  in  rainy  weather  the  inhabit- 
ants must  be  obliged  to  travel  by  boat  from 
hut  to  hut. 

Filth  and  refuse  are  everywhere  and  pigs, 
children,  chickens  and  live  stock  root,  wallow 
and  play  in  the  piles  of  rotting  oyster  shells 
and  garbage  under  the  houses.  The  country  is 
flat  and  low,  mosquitoes  make  life  a  constant 
misery  and  while  a  little  agriculture  is  carried 
on  it  is  altogether  a  most  God-forsaken  and 
forlorn  spot. 

Oil  however,  is  known  to  occur  in  the  vic- 
inity, exploration  and  prospect  work  is  being 
carried  on  and  at  any  time  the  place  may 
spring  into  world-wide  prominence  and  may 
become  a  wealthy,  thriving  community. 

Beyond  Garachine,  the  Gulf  narrows  and  the 
scenery  becomes  most  fascinating,  mth  pictur- 
esque, wooded  islets  and  varied  shores  of  hill 
and  valley,  all  clothed  in  a  mantle  of  most  lux- 
uriant green. 

The  next  stop  for  the  launch  or  steamer  is 


178  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

La  Palma,  a  most  attractive  appearing  village 
as  seen  from  the  sea,  with  its  houses  rising 
from  the  waterside  on  stilts  and  climbing  up 
the  steep  hillside  beyond  and  with  feathery 
palms  nodding  above  their  sharp,  peaked  roofs. 
But  distance  lends  enchantment  to  the  view 
for,  upon  landing,  one  finds  La  Palma  only  a 
shade  better  than  Garachine.  It  is  not  so 
dirty,  for  the  situation  of  the  place  is  such  that 
nature  attends  to  sanitation  and  all  filth  is 
washed  into  the  gulf  whenever  it  rains,  but  the 
inhabitants  are  the  same  type  of  colored  and 
negroes, — mainly  descendants  of  the  old  Cim- 
marroons, — ^there  is  no  industry  or  business 
in  evidence  and  the  sole  occupations  of  the 
people  appear  to  be  cock  fighting  and  killing 
time. 

There  are  however,  a  few  fairly  good  wooden 
buildings  and  apologies  for  shops ;  but  the  only 
drinking  water  is  obtained  from  wells  or 
springs  which  are  at  the  base  of  the  hillside 
cemetery.  From  the  hilltop  back  of  the  town 
one  may  secure  some  magnificent  views  with 
the  broad  mouth  of  the  Tuira  River  stretch- 
ing away  to  the  hazy,  forest  clad  shores  of  the 
gulf  and  dotted  with  islands,  while  afar  off, 


SCENE  ON  THE  CHUCUNAQUE  RIVER,  DARIEN 


A  STREET  IN  EL  REAL,  DARIEN 


DARIEN  THE  UNKNOWN         179 

and  barely  cliscernible,  is  the  sparkling  line 
marking  the  vast  Pacific. 

All  along  the  river,  as  one  travels  onward, 
are  wonderfully  fertile  and  lev-el  lands  per- 
fectly adapted  to  agriculture,  but  untouched 
and  uncultivated  for  mile  after  mile,  until  the 
little  village  of  Chipogana  is  reached, — a  mere 
collection  of  ramshackle  huts  on  the  bank  of 
the  river. 

All  of  this  district  is  covered  with  a  wealth 
of  valuable  woods  and  during  the  war  quan- 
tities of  fustic,  cocobolo,  mahogany  and  cedar 
were  shipped  from  Chipogana,  El  Real  and 
other  ports.  Across  the  river  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Savanna  River  an  American  lumber  com- 
pany has  immense  holdings,  but  comparatively 
little  work  is  being  done.  Some  idea  of  the 
amount  of  valuable  timber  which  exists  in 
Darien  may  be  gained  from  the  fact  that  in 
clearing  a  few  acres  of  land  near  El  Real  a 
native  destroyed  over  one  thousand  cocobolo 
trees. 

About  five  hours  after  leaving  Chipogana  the 
boat  reaches  the  mouth  of  the  Chucunaque,  and 
swinging  to  the  right,  continues  up  the  Turia, 
passing  the   old   ruins  of  El  Real  de   Santa 


180  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Maria,  the  first  settlement  on  the  Pacific  slopes 
and  arriving  a  little  later  at  its  modem  name- 
sake. 

This  miserable  village  with  the  high  sound- 
ing name  is  a  straggling  array  of  cane  huts 
built  on  a  tongue  of  level  land  at  the  junction 
of  the  Pirri  and  Tuira  Rivers  and  is  as  filthy, 
forlorn  and  miserable  a  hole  as  one  can  well 
imagine.  Its  one  redeeming  feature  is  beauti- 
ful Mount  Pirri  looming  above  the  plains  to 
th-e  south.  It  is  the  hottest  place  I  have  ever 
seen  and  all  drinking  water  must  be  brought 
from  far  up  the  Pirri  River  as  the  streams  near 
the  village  are  thick  with  mud. 

In  the  prosperous  days  of  the  old  Darien  or 
Cana  mine,  El  Real  was  of  some  importance 
as  the  terminus  of  a  road  leading  thereto,  but 
to-day,  it  has  no  possible  excuse  for  existence. 

The  inhabitants  are  miserably  poor  and  yet 
all  about  are  untold  riches  to  be  had  with  little 
toil;  but,  like  their  neighbors  of  the  district, 
they  are  too  lazy  and  apathetic  even  to  culti- 
vate enough  to  feed  themselves. 

And  yet  they  are  willing  to  risk  the  little  they 
do  possess  by  gambling  and  cock-fights  and 
apparently  their  only  object  in  earning  a  few 


DARIEN  THE  UNKNOWN         181 

pesos  is  in  order  to  gamble  with  one  another. 

Nevertheless,  there  are  several  stores, — 
kept  as  usual  by  Chinese — and  the  govern- 
ment maintains  a  school,  for  no  matter  how 
isolated  or  forlorn  a  village  may  be  the  Board 
of  Education  hunts  it  out  and  establishes  a 
school  of  some  sort. 

At  El  Real  the  visitor  may  see  a  few  Indians, 
naked  save  for  loin  cloths,  shock-headed  and  of- 
ten painted,  who  have  come  down  the  Tuira  or 
Pirri  rivers  to  trade;  but  to  see  the  primitive 
Indians  at  home  one  must  secure  a  dugout  cay- 
uoa  or,  as  they  are  called  in  Darien  a  *'Pir- 
ogua"  and  two  boatmen  and  must  be  poled  up 
the  Tuira  to  the  Indians*  \'illages.  There  are 
two  tribes  of  Indians  in  this  district  known 
as  Chokois  and  Kunas,  the  first  a  brown- 
skinned,  agricultural  race,  pleasant  and  peace- 
able who  dwell  along  the  lower  reaches  of  the 
large  rivers;  the  others  yellow-skimied,  retir- 
ing, and  occupying  the  upper  portions  of  the 
Chucunaque  and  its  tributaries  and  permitting 
no  strangers  within  their  borders.  In  addition 
to  these  "wild"  Kunas  as  they  are  called  there 
are  a  number  of  "tame"  Kunas  who  dwell 
along  the  lower  tributaries  of  the  Tuira  and 


182  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Chucunaque  and  who  are  semi-civilized  and 
hospitable  and  are  a  far  superior  race  to  the 
Chokoia. 

There  has  been  a  great  deal  of  misinformation 
and  downright  fiction  spread  broadcast  about 
the  so-called  San  Bias  Indians  of  Darien  and 
the  ''forbidden"  district. 

In  Colon,  one  may  hear  hair-raising  tales  of 
the  *'San  Bias"  Indians  who  never  allow  a 
stranger  toi  pass  a  night  within  their  terri- 
tory and  w'ho  kill  all  outsiders  who  strive  to 
penetrate  their  district.  Indeed,  one  writer 
has  gone  so  far  as  to  describe  the  San  Bias 
Indians  as  maintaining  constant  guard  around 
their  country  with  sentries  posted  on  hill  tops 
and  armed  with  Mauser  rifles! 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  San  Bias  Indians  are 
Towalis,  a  peaceable,  civilized  people  who 
dw'ell  upon  the  islands  of  the  San  Bias  archi- 
pelago and  the  adjacent  mainland  and  who  are 
in  constant  communication  with  the  Panaman- 
ians and  Americans. 

They  visit  Colon  r-egularly  and  la  number 
may  always  be  seen,  wandering  about  the  streets 
of  that  city,  while  many  of  the  men  and  chiefs 
have  served  as  seamen  on  American  whaling 
and  merchant  vessels  and  have  visited  every 


:,iUiu 


I 


DARIEN  THE  UNKNOWN         183 

part  of  the  world.  Not  a  few  of  them  speak 
English  and  are  as  proficient  in  AYnerioan  slang 
and  as  adept  at  swearing  as  any  Yankee  mate 
and  in  their  houses  one  finds  alarm  clocks, 
phonographs,  and  many  other  up-to-date  im- 
provements and  luxuries. 

They  are  shrewd  traders  and  make  a  good 
livelihood  raising  coconuts  and  gathering  ivory 
nuts  which  they  bring  to  Colon  in  their  swift, 
seaworthy  canoes  and  they  welcome  strangers 
to  their  homes  and  villages.  In  fact,  it  is  a 
cormnon  thing  for  parties  from  Colon  and  Cris- 
tobal to  visit  these  people  and  secure  souvenirs, 
curios  and  photographs,  .and  during  the  last 
carnival  at  Colon  I  saw  two  San  Bias  chiefs  with 
their  wives  and  children  driving  about  in  a 
motor  car  and  thoroughly  enjoying  the  merry- 
making which,  to  tell  the  truth,  savored  far 
more  of  primitive  savagery  than  do  any  of  the 
customs  of  the  San  Bias. 

All  the  stories  of  the  San  Bias  Indians'  owe 
their  origin  to  the  Kunas'  customs  and  a  con- 
fusion of  the  two  tribes,  and  yet  they  are  very 
distinct,  the  San  Bias  or  Towalis  being  a  short, 
stocky,  brown  race,  whereas  the  true  Kunas  are 
a  tall,  powerfully-built,  pale  yellow  race  who 
dwell  in  the  unknown,  unexplored  district  ex- 


184  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

fending  from  the  upper  Bayano  to  the  Mem- 
brillo  River.  They  are  typically  forest  Indians 
and  until  visited  by  the  author,  had  never  been 
studied  or  photographed  and  practically  no- 
thing was  known  of  them  aside  from  the  rumors 
and  tales  of  the  Panamanians  and  the  other  In- 
dians who  are  deathly  afraid  of  them. 

They  are  a  very  intelligent  race  and  in  many 
ways  are  more  civilized  than  their  Chokoi 
neighbors.  Many  of  them  wear  clothes;  the 
women  dress  in  gaudy,  shirt-like  smocks  and 
Chinese-like  trousers  similar  to  those  of  the 
San  Bias  women  and  the  majority,  at  least 
in  the  outlying  villages,  speak  some  Spanish. 
The  men  wear  their  hair  long  and  gathered  in 
a  huge  bunch  or  knot  at  one  side  of  the  head 
where  it  is  secured  by  cleverly  made  ornamen- 
tal combs  and  they  paint  themselves  hide- 
ously,— often  black,  scarlet,  yellow  or  blue 
from  head  to  foot  with  a  circular  patch  of 
white  or  some  contrasting  color  over  the  eyes 
and  nose,  and  they  invariably  wear  their  tribal 
marks  painted  on  noses  and  cheeks.  The 
women  are  kept  secluded  in  darkened  houses 
and  seldom  appear  during  the  day, — only  com- 
ing forth  to  bathe  in  the  river  or  to  secure 
water  in  the  early  morning  or  late  in  the  after- 


DARIEN  THE  UNKNOWN  185 

noon.  All  wear  gold  ornaments  and  nose 
rings  and  bind  the  limbs  with  tight  ligatures 
like  the  tribes  of  Guiana  and  Brazil,  A  few 
possess  guns,  but  there  is  not  a  rifle, — let  alone 
a  Mauser, — in  the  tribe  and  their  favorite 
weapons  are  bows  and  arrows,  blow  guns  and 
poisoned  darts. 

Although  they  do  not  admit  strangers  within 
their  territory  yet  I  very  much  doubt  if  they 
ever  kill  any  one  who  visits  their  district  for 
the  first  time;  but  if  the  intruders  are  caught 
returning,  after  being  warned  out,  they  m-ay 
pay  the  penalty  by  death  or  worse.  I  was 
told  by  reliable  people  at  Yaviza  and  El  Real 
that  a  large  party  of  Panamanians  once  at- 
tempted to  enter  the  Kuna  country,  but  tbat 
only  fifteen  returned  alive,  all  the  rest  hav- 
ing been  killed  by  poisoned  arrrows  without 
even  seeing  an  Indian. 

Even  the  so  called  ''tame*'  Kunas  have  a 
wiholesome  dread  of  their  wild  kinsmen  and 
never  dare  enter  their  country,  although  mem- 
bers of  the  wild  Kunas  often  visit  the  villages 
of  the  tame  tribesmen.  Outside  of  their  own 
territory  they  are  not  hostile  and  their  sole 
idea  in  keeping  others  out  is  to  maintain  the 
purity  of  their  race  and  to  retain  their  country' 


186  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

to  themselves,  for  they  have  seen  the  dire 
results  of  contact  with  the  whites  and  blacks  as 
illustrated  by  the  Chokois  and  San  Bias. 

Personally,  I  had  little  difificulty  in  entering 
their  country  as  soon  as  I  convinced  their 
chiefs  that  I  was  neither  searching  for  gold  or 
rubber  and  that  I  had  no  desire  to  remain 
after  I  had  secured  specimens  and  photo- 
graphs, for  the  Indians'  greatest  dread  is  that 
the  native  rubber  gatherers  and  gold  seekers 
may  invade  their  domains. 

The  Chokois  are  very  different  from  either 
the  Kunas  or  the  San  Bias  and  are  far  more 
primitive  than  either.  Both  men  and  women 
are  practically  nude,  the  men  wearing  merely 
a  cloth  breech  clout  and  the  women  a  loin 
cloth,  and  they  are  very  inferior  to  the  Kunas 
in  intelligence  or  physical  development.  Oddly 
enough,  whereas  the  Kunas  affect  golden  or- 
naments and  never  wear  silver  in  any  form 
the  Chokois  abhor  gold  and  wear  enormous 
silver  earrings,  arm  bands,  wristlets  and  neck- 
laces of  their  own  manufacture. 

To  the  visitor  who  has  never  seen  really 
primitive  savages  the  Chokois  will  prove  most 
interesting  and  their  villages  are  easy  of  ac- 


KUNA   INDIAN   WOMEN,   DARIEN 


WILD    KUNAS    OF    THE    FORBIDDEN    DISTRICT,    DARIEN 


DARIEN  THE  UNKNOWN         187 

cess  from  El  Real,  the  first  being  barely  a 
day's  travel  by  canoe  up  the  Tuira  River. 

In  traveling  up  the  rivers  in  Darien  the 
boatmen  stand  on  the  flattened,  overhanging 
ends  of  the  dugout, — which  are  designed  for 
this  purpose, — and  propel  the  craft  by  long 
poles  much  as  punting  is  done  in  England.  As 
the  current  is  swiftt  most  of  the  upstream  work 
is  done  at  flood  tide,  for  the  enormous  tides  of 
the  Pacific  affect  these  Darien  streams  for 
long  distances  inland,  or  to  the  first  steep 
rapids.  In  coming  down,  however,  one  drifts 
mainly  by  the  current,  running  rapids  and 
small  falls,  and  only  using  the  poles  to  guide 
the  craft  or  when  the  lower  stretches  of  the 
rivers  are  reached  and  the  tide  is  unfavorable. 

Above  El  Real  much  of  the  country  is  flat 
or  rolling  and  covered  with  cane  breaks  and 
low  scrub,  but  in  places,  there  are  extensive 
open  forests  and  many  of  the  trees  are  gigantic. 
Bird  life  is  very  abundant  and  on  nearly  every 
isolated  tree  one  may  see  great  numbers  of 
the  long,  pendant,  pouch-like  nests  of  the  yel- 
low-tailed Caziques,  while  toucans,  trogans, 
parrots  and  other  tropical  and  bright-hued 
birds  are  everywhere.     Game  too  is  abundant 


188  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

and  deer,  peccary,  paca,  tapir,  wild  turkeys 
and  various  game  birds  may  always  be  se- 
cured by  taking  a  short  hunting  trip  into  the 
forest  and  are  often  to  be  seen  upon  the  river 
banks  or  swimming  the  streams. 

About  six  hours  above  El  Real,  the  little 
settlement  of  Pinogana  is  reached,  a  group  of 
houses  on  the  grassy  bank  and,  unlike  the  other 
villages  of  the  district,  very  neat  and  clean, 
with  numerous  fruit  trees  and  quite  a  bit  of 
cultivated  land  about  it. 

Soon  after  leaving  Pinogana  one  may  ex- 
pect to  see  Indians  at  any  moment,  for  the 
first  villages  are  only  a  few  hours  distant  and 
usually  the  first  sight  one  has  of  the  aborigines 
is  a  big  dugout,  drifting  down  the  river  to- 
wards the  settlements,  filled  with  fruit  and 
rice  and  with  naked  Chokois  standing  at  bow 
and  stern  guiding  the  craft  with  their  long 
poles,  their  scarlet  breech-cloths  gleaming 
against  their  brown  skins  while,  seated  amid 
the  cargo,  are  half-nude  women  and  naked, 
brown-skinned  children  who  gaze  curiously  at 
the  white  strangers  as  they  pass. 

Meeting  them  here  upon  the  river  in  the  wild- 
erness, the  traveler  feels  that  he  is  remote 
from  civilization,  that  he  is  indeed  out  of  the 


DARIEN  THE  UNKNOWN  189 

beaten  track ;  that  at  any  moment  he  may  meet 
with  adventure ;  that  just  around  the  next  bend 
of  the  stream  some  strange,  unexpected  sight 
may  be  in  store.  And  in  this  he  is  not  far 
wrong,  for  presently,  as  the  canoe  swings 
around  the  bend,  we  come  suddenly  upon  a 
Chokoi  village. 

At  the  base  of  the  high,  clay  bank  a  dozen 
cayucas  are  drawn  up  and  ere  our  eyes  grasp 
details  brown-skinned  figures  are  scurrying  up 
the  bank  and  out  of  sight  to  reappear,  a  mo- 
ment later,  peering  at  us  from  their  point  of 
vantage  on  the  summit  of  the  river  bank.  By 
the  time  our  canoe  has  reached  the  landing 
place  the  men  appear,  the  women  and  chil- 
dren having  spread  the  news  of  our  arrival, 
and  troop  down  to  the  waterside  to  greet  us. 

Short,  thickset;  with  slender  limbs  and 
wonderfully  developed  shoulders  and  chests; 
with  masses  of  thick,  black  hair  falling  to  their 
shoulders;  mth  brown  skins  decorated  with 
blue,  scarlet  and  white  paint;  with  enormous 
earrings  of  beaten  silver  and  scarlet  or  blue 
breech-cloths  the  Chokois  completely  fulfill 
one's  ideal  of  the  primitive  savage.  But  they 
are  savage  only  in  name  and  with  broad  smiles, 
■and  speaking  in  broken  Spanish,  they  shake 


190  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

hands,  shoulder  our  luggage  and  lead  the  way 
up  the  bank  to  their  homes. 

The  houses,  raised  on  posts  ten  feet  above 
the  earth,  are  neatly  made  with  floors  of  split 
cane  and  roofs  of  thatched  palm  leaves,  but 
are  without  walls  and  to  reach  a  Chokoi  home 
one  clambers  up  a  rude  ladder,  made  by  cut- 
ting notches  in  a  pole. 

Scattered  or  hung  about  within,  are  baskets, 
earthen  pots,  dried  corn,  bundles  of  head  rice, 
bunches  of  the  soft  inner  bark  of  the  rubber 
tree,  which  the  Chokois  use  as  beds,  bows  and 
arrows,  bright  colored  cloth  and  a  miscella- 
neous lot  of  household  goods  and  implements. 
Squatted  on  the  floor  are  the  women  of  the 
family,  cow-eyed,  stupid-faced;  naked  save  for 
the  bit  of  cloth  or  rubber  bark  about  their  hips, 
with  their  long,  ink-black  hair  hanging  about 
their  bare  shoulders  and  surrounded  by  their 
youngsters  ranging  in  age  from  the  babes  at 
their  breasts  to  the  lively,  sturdy  kiddies  of 
six  or  eight  years  who  tumble  and  play  and 
roll  about  like  big  brown  kittens. 

In  one  corner  of  the  hut  a  slow  fi.re  is  burn- 
ing and  beside  it  an  ancient,  shrivelled  hag 
is  stirring  the  food  cooking  in  a  huge  earthen 
pot. 


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DARIEN  THE  UNKNOWN  191 

Fastened  to  posts,  standing  in  comers  and 
tucked  into  crevices  of  the  thatch,  are  queer 
figures  carved  from  wood  and  gaudily  painted, 
— the  household  gods  or  **santos'^  of  the  In- 
dians. There  are  gods  for  everything;  gods 
of  the  hunt,  of  the  crops,  of  the  house,  of  the 
children,  of  the  dance,  of  fertility,  of  weather, 
of  sickness,  of  marriage  and  of  health.  As 
long  as  all  goes  well  the  gods  are  cared  for, 
looked  after  and  even  fed;  but  if  anything 
goes  wrong  the  poor  god  who  is  responsible 
for  that  particular  thing  is  promptly  chopped 
to  pieces  and  cast  out  and  a  new  god  fashioned 
to  take  his  place. 

Perchance,  if  fortune  favors,  we  may  reach 
the  Chokoi  village  when  the  Indians  are  pre- 
paring for  a  feast  and  dance.  In  that  case  we 
will  find  them  decked  in  all  their  finery, — out- 
shining Solomon  in  all  his  glory  and  putting 
any  lily  of  the  field  to  shame, — with  fathoms 
of  bright  colored  beads  draped  over  their 
shoulders  and  across  their  chests  like  bandoliers, 
broad  belts  of  woven  beads  about  their  waists, 
gaudy  head-bands  about  their  masses  of  hair, 
huge  crowns  of  painted  wood  and  bamboo  upon 
their  heads;  with  their  arms,  legs  and  necks 
weighted   down   with   silver  ornaments,  with 


192  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

necklets  of  mother-of-pearl  and  with  their 
skins  painted  in  every  color  of  the  rainbow, 
while  as  a  final  touch,  scarlet  hibiscus  flowers 
are  tucked  coyly  back  of  their  ears.  As  they 
dance  and  prance  about  to  the  dull  boom 
of  tom-tom  and  the  shrill  notes  of  reed  flutes 
it  is  hard  to  believe  that  we  are  scarce  one 
hundred  miles  from  the  Canal,  that,  within  two 
days  travel,  is  Panama  with  its  crowded  traf- 
fic, its  trolley  cars  and  electric  lights,  its  de- 
partment stores  and  motor  cars ;  that  only  the 
distance  from  New  York  to  Philadelphia  sep- 
arates these  primitive,  painted,  naked  Indians 
from  the  roaring  trains,  the  busy  shops,  the 
great  hotels  and  the  teeming,  civilized,  modem 
life  of  Balboa  and  Cristobal. 

As  far  as  appearances  and  surroundings  go 
one  might  well  be  in  the  very  heart  of  South 
America  and  countless  leagues  from  the  last 
outposts  of  civilization;  one  feels  that  the 
centuries  have  been  rolled  back  and  that  one 
is  in  the  unknown  wilderness  of  Balboa  and 
his  men;  that  no  other  white  man  has  ever 
before  gazed  upon  these  naked  savages  and 
their  dance ;  that  one  is  rubbing  elbows  with  the 
untamed,  the  mysterious,  the  unknown. 

Indeed,  such  is  not  so  far  from  the  reality 


DARIEN  THE  UNKNOWN         193 

after  all.  Wliile  Panamanian  villages  are 
near,  while  the  Chokois  speak  Spanish  and 
are  in  constant  touch  with  civilization;  while 
we  are  only  on  the  borders  of  the  wilderness, 
yet,  near  at  hand, — almost  within  stone's 
throw  in  fact, — is  the  untrodden,  unexplored, 
utterly  unkno^^^l  country  of  the  Kunas, — the 
forbidden  district  whose  secrets  no  white  man 
has  ever  solved,  whose  untold  natural  riches 
lie  untouched,  undreamed  of,  guarded  by  the 
fierce  tribesmen  and  their  poisoned  arrows  as 
they  have  been  guarded  and  kept  hidden  since 
the  first  Spaniard  set  foot  on  the  shores  of 
the  Isthmus. 

Two  days*  poling  up  the  Tuira  from  the 
first  Chokoi  village  is  Boca  de  Cupe,  a  col- 
lection of  thatched  huts  beside  the  river  and 
once  a  busy  settlement  as  it  was  the  river  port 
for  the  famed  Darien  mine  with  a  railway 
connecting  the  two  and  vast  quantities  of  sup- 
plies passing  through  it.  Millions  have  been 
taken  from  the  old  mine,  but  to-day  it  is  for- 
saken and  abandoned, — although  still  rich, — 
for  it  was  not  lack  of  mineral,  but  waste,  dis- 
honesty, inefficiency  and  graft  that  caused  the 
company  to  fail. 

Ever  since  the  days  of  Balboa  and  Nicuesa, 


194  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Darien  has  been  famed  for  its  mineral  wealth 
and  while  there  are  no  mines  operated  in  the 
district  to-day  it  is  not  for  lack  of  deposits; 
but  owing  to  the  extreme  difficulty  of  trans- 
portation and  of  prospecting,  the  hostile  In- 
dians, and  the  fact  that  few  people  realize  the 
natural  resources  of  the  country.  Practically 
every  stream  carries  gold,  there  are  deposits 
of  copper,  lead,  cinnabar,  manganese  and  other 
metals;  oil  is  known  to  exist  and  some  of 
the  rivers'  gravels  carry  platinum,  while 
small  emeralds  have  been  found. 

Indeed,  the  resources  of  Darien  are  prac- 
tically identical  with  those  of  Colombia  and 
there  is  no  reason  why  they  should  not  be 
when  we  stop  to  consider  that  merely  an  im- 
aginary line  separates  the  rich  Atrato  and  San 
Juan  districts  from  Darien. 

Aside  from  its  mineral  wealth  there  are 
fortunes  in  timber,  medicinal  plants,  dyB 
woods  and  other  tropical  products  in  the  vast 
forests  which  stretch,  almost  unbroken,  from 
Atlantic  to  Pacific  and  from  the  Atrato  Valley 
to  the  Bayano, — a  wilderness  thousands  of 
square  miles  in  extent  and  largely  unmapped, 
unexplored  and  absolutely  unknown. 

Within  this  area  are  great  rivers  and  lofty 


^TT^Hr^S^S 


RUNNING  RAPIDS  ON  THE  CHUCUNAQUE  RIVER,  DARIEN 


A  CHOKOI   FAMILY  ON   THE  TUIRA  RIVER,   DARIEN 


DARIEN  THE  UNKNOWN         195 

mountains    which    no    map    shows,    which    no 
white  man  has  seen;  within  it  may  be  tribes 
and  people,   or  even   qities,   of  whose  exist- 
ence we  have  never  dreamed.    Indeed,  from 
earliest  times  there  have  been  rumors, — myths 
if  you  wdll — of  a  lost  city  upon  an  isolated 
mountain  top, — a   to(\\ni   of  well  built  houses 
inhabited  by  a  civilized,  unknown  race  to  which 
there   is   no    access   by   road,   trail   or   river. 
Without  exception  the  Indians  believe  the  tale, 
though  none  can  claim  to  have  seen  the  myste- 
rious tovm,  and  always  it  has  been  scoffed  at  by 
the  white  man  as  a  figment  of  the  red  man's 
imagination.     But  is  it?     Only  two  years  ago 
an  army  aviator  returning  from  a  flight  re- 
ported that,  when  flying  over  Darien  at  a  high 
altitude,   he   had   seen  a  large   and  populous 
town  upon  a  flat-topped  mountain  isolated  from 
the  other  ranges  and  apparently  without  pass 
or  road  leading  to  it.     What  manner  of  men 
inhabited  it,   what  the  houses  and  buildings 
were  like,  he  could  not  say,  for  ovnng  to  bad 
air  he  could  not  descend  vvithin  several  thou- 
sand feet  and  merely  glimpsed  the  place  as  he 
swept  past;  but  he  declared  that  he  saw  the 
people  running  about  as  if  excited,  that  there 
were   hundreds    of    houses   and    that   neither 


196  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PEESENT 

buildings  nor  inhabitants  looked  like  Indians. 

But  whether  or  not  the  officer  looked  down 
upon  the  ''lost"  city  of  some  unknown  ancient 
cultured  race,  or  upon  an  unusually  large 
Indian  village,  there  is  no  question  that  the 
Darien  hides  much  that  is  new  and  strange 
and  full  of  interest  to  science  and  presents  a 
marvelously  fascinating  field  for  the  explorer. 

To  reach  the  most  unknown  district  of 
Darien,  one  must  voyage  up  the  Chucunaque; 
a  trip  of  rare  scenic  beauty  through  forests 
of  gigantic  trees,  up  great  tumbling  rivers, 
through  rock  filled  rapids  and  plunging  cata- 
racts and  into  the  forbidden  land.  However, 
one  may  see  much  of  the  country,  may  obtain 
a  very  good  idea  of  its  resources  and  may 
enjoy  adventure  and  thrills  a  plenty  without 
entering  the  Kuna  country,  for  it  is  possible 
to  follow  in  the  footsteps  of  Balboa  and,  as- 
cending the  Kio  Chico,  follow  the  Indian  trails 
across  to  the  San  Bias  villages  on  the  Carib- 
bean, where  passage  may  be  obtained  to  Colon. 

At  Yaviza,  a  little  Panamanian  village  just 
above  the  Chucunaque  mouth,  the  traveler  may 
secure  canoes  and  men  to  carry  him  to  the  first 
Chokoi  villages  on  the  Eio  Chico.  Here  In- 
dians may  be  engaged  to  continue  the  journey 


DARIEN  THE  UNKNOWN         197 

up  stream  to  the  villages  of  the  "tame"  Kunas 
and  here  it  is  easy  to  induce  a  Kuna  boy  or 
man  to  act  as  guide  over  the  trail  through 
the  passes  to  the  Atlantic  Shore. 

There  is  little  doubt  that  this  was  the  old 
route  followed  by  the  Spaniards  in  crossing 
the  Isthmus  in  the  days  before  the  Gold  Road 
and  Panama  were  built,  for,  here  and  there 
along  the  trail,  one  finds  bits  of  ancient  brick 
and  crumbling  masonry  hidden  in  the  jungle 
while,  across  the  river  from  Yaviza,  are  the 
ruins  of  a  fort  and  town. 

Even  this  trip  is  a  hard,  rough,  tiresome 
journey  full  of  hardships  and  a  test  of  endur- 
ance for  a  white  man  and  one  mai'vels  how 
the  Spaniards  ever  made  it  or  how  they  won 
their  way  across  the  Isthmus  and  into  remote 
comers  of  the  New  World. 

Indeed,  w^e  must  take  off  our  hats  to  the  old 
Dons  and,  despite  their  many  failings,  their 
cruelties  and  their  unprincipled  deeds,  must 
give  them  everlasting  credit  and  admiration 
for  what  they  accomplished  under  inexpress- 
ible handicaps. 

Let  any  one  tramp  through  the  steaming 
jungles  of  Darien,  or  ride  through  the  rugged 
foothills  and  sky-piercing  peaks  of  the  Cordil- 


198  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

leras  over  the  awful  trails  of  to-day  and  one 
can  begin  to  realize  of  what  stuff  the  con- 
querors were  made.  Even  when  provided  with 
every  modem  appliance  and  comfort  in  the 
form  of  clothing,  canned  foods,  weapons, 
matches,  cooking  utensils  and  camping  out- 
fits such  trips  are  bad  enough. 

But  imagine  what  it  must  have  meant  to 
have  hewn  a  way  through  such  country  loaded 
down  with  armor,  battling  with  hostile  Indians 
who  disputed  each  foot  of  the  way;  armed 
only  with  swords,  halberds,  crossbows  and 
archaicf  matchlocks;  (knowing  nothing  of  the 
insects,  of  malaria,  of  tropical  diseases;  un- 
equipped and  without  medicine;  depending  on 
living  off  the  country  for  food,  ignorant  of  lo- 
calities and  with  no  maps  to  guide. 

Think  of  the  blazing  sun  beating  for  hours 
upon  casque  of  steel  upon  one's  head;  think 
of  the  torture  of  sand  flies,  red-bugs  or  ticks 
beneath  a  coat  of  mail ;  think  of  the  horrors  of 
silken  hose,  of  velvet  trunks,  of  leather  doub- 
lets when  soaked  with  tropical  rain  and  steam- 
ing under  an  equatorial  sun  and  then  we  may 
begin  to  appreciate  what  the  Spaniards  under- 
went, what  they  bore,  what  they  survived  in 
their  lust  for  gold,  their  zeal  to  Christianize, 


'■^A  -^^"^J     '   '* 


CHOKOI  INDIANS  READY  FOR  A  DANCE,  DARIEN 


AN    INDIAN    CAMP    IN    DARIEN    WITH    HOUSEHOLD   GOD 
IN  DOORWAY 


DARIEN  THE  UNKNOWN         199 

their  mad  desire  to  conquer  and  add  new  lands 
to  Castile  and  to  Leon. 

Indomitable  they  must  have  been, — men  of 
iron  with  muscles  of  steel, — supermen  who 
knew  not  fear  nor  weariness  nor  pain;, whose 
adamantine  wills  forced  their  worn  and  tor- 
tured bodies  onward,  overcoming  all  obstacles, 
surmounting  all  didiculties,  knowing  no  such 
word  as  fail.  No  wonder  that  with  such  men  to 
add  glory  to  her  crown,  Spain  became  the 
mightiest  nation  of  the  world ;  no  wonder  that 
her  gold  and  scarlet  banners  flaunted  their  folds 
from  Florida  to  Cape  Horn. 

More  cruel  than  the  naked  savages  they 
fought  they  may  have  been;  heartless,  blood- 
thirsty, almost  inhuman  monsters  they  were 
and  while  we  must  shudder  at  their  deeds, 
must  despise  them  for  thedr  acts  and  must 
loath  them  for  their  utter  ruthlessness,  yet 
we  must  admire  their  valor,  their  endurance, 
their  steadfast  adherence  to  what  they  thought 
their  duty  and  we  must  admit  that  they  were, 
as  a  westerner  would  put  it  real  **he  men/* 


CHAPTER  XII 

THE  RESOURCES  OF  PANAMA 

Agriculture.       Cattle.      Fisheries.      Horses.    Medicinal 
plants.    Mineral.    Pearl  beds.     Timber.    Whales. 

AGRICULTURE 

Only  about  one  eighty-fifth  of  the  total  area 
of  the  Republic  is  under  cultivation  and  a  very 
large  part  of  this  is  comprised  of  the  immense 
plantations  of  the  United  Fruit  Company  at 
Bocas  del  Toro.  With  a  wonderfully  varied  sur- 
face, every  class  of  soil,  a  climate  varying  from 
tropical  to  temperate ;  with  abundant  rivers  and 
streams  and  a  heavy  rainfall,  Panama  is  one  of 
the  most  promising  agricultural  countries  in 
tropical  America.  Every  tropical  product  may 
be  grown  to  perfection  and  in  the  hills  and 
mountains  practically  all  fruits  and  vegetables  of 
temperate  zones  may  easily  be  raised.  There  is 
no  reason  why  Panama  should  not  produce 
enough  fruits,  vegetables  and  other  agricultural 
products  to  supply  the  entire  Republic  and  the 
Canal  Zone  in  addition,  and  yet,  nearly  all  the 
vegetables  and  fruits  used  on  the  Zone  are 
imported  and  a  large  part  of  those  sold  in  Colon 

200 


THE  RESOURCES  OF  PAN-AMA    201 

and  Panama  City  are  brought  from  other  coun- 
tries.    The  Canal  Commissary  spends  hundreds 
of  thousands  of  dollars  yearly  for  fruits  and 
vegetables  in  Costa  Rica  and  Haiti,  not  to  men- 
tion those  purchased  in  the  States,  and  every  one 
of  these  could  be  raised  in  Panama.     Panama 
coffee  is  as  good  as  any  grown  in  Latin  America, 
its    Cacao    is   equal    to   that   of   Venezuela,    its 
tobacco  is  excellent  and  its  coconuts  are  among 
the  best   in  the   world.     Hitherto,   the  lack  of 
transportation  facilities  has  prevented  outsiders 
from    taking    up    and    cultivating    agricultural 
lands;  but  with  the  present  program  of  motor 
roads  penetrating  the  interior,  there  is  no  reason 
why  fortunes  should  not  be  made  by  agricul- 
turists in  Panama. 
CATTLE 

In  the  old  Spanish  colonial  days  cattle  raising 
was  the  chief  industry  aside  from  mining;  but 
to-day,  there  are  not  over  200,000  head  of  cattle 
in  the  entire  Republic.  Even  so,  stock  raising 
is  perhaps  the  largest  and  most  important  in- 
dustry in  the  country.  Very  little  attention, 
however,  is  given  to  breeding,  selection  or  care 
and,  as  a  result,  the  local  cattle  are  small, 
scrawny,  poor  and  tough.  In  many  places 
draught  animals  of  splendid  size  are  raised 
which  proves  that  the  native  animal  can  be 
improved  readily;  but  up  to  the  present  time  the 


202  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Panamanian  ranchers  have  not  been  able  or  will- 
ing to  give  enough  care  to  their  cattle  to  produce 
beeves  which  are  up  to  the  Canal  Commissary- 
standard  and  in  consequence,  all  beef  used  on 
the  Zone  is  either  imported  from  the  States  or 
is  from  live  cattle  brought  from  Colombia  or 
from  cattle  imported  and  fattened  and  raised  on 
the  Zone.  With  thousands  of  square  miles  of 
splendid  grazing  lands  and  abundant  water  there 
is  no  reason  why  enormous  ranches  should  not  be 
established,  from  which  the  Zone,  the  Republic 
and  the  numerous  ships  passing  through  the 
Canal  could  be  supplied  and  which  would  prove 
very  lucrative. 

FISHERIES 

The  waters  of  Panama  teem  with  fish  and 
while  the  present  fisheries  on  both  coasts  are 
extensive,  still  they  do  not  fill  all  the  demand 
of  the  cities  and  of  the  Zone.  A  much  larger 
business  could  be  done  in  fish,  turtles  etc.,  and 
the  sponge  industry  might  be  made  profitable. 

HORSES  AND  MULES 

Good  horses,  as  judged  by  our  standards,  are 
not  reared  in  the  Republic,  but  fairly  good  native 
ponies  are  raised  in  Code,  Chiriqui  and  Vera- 
guas.  As  a  rule,  however,  the  horses  are  given 
even  less  attention  and  care  than  the  cattle  and 
the  majority  are  miserable,  undersized,  thin  and 
weak.    Mules  are  scarce  and  very  high  priced 


THE  RESOURCES  OF  PANAMA     203 

and  yet  they  do  very  well  and  a  mule  ranch 
would  be  a  pajing  proposition  if  properly  and 
intelligently  conducted.  Oddly  enough,  there 
are  practically  no  asses  in  the  Republic  and  un- 
like other  Latin  American  countries  the  burro 
as  a  beast  of  burden  is  unknown.  Estimates 
place  the  total  number  of  horses  and  mules  in 
the  Republic  at  about  40,000. 
MEDICINAL  PLANTS 

Panama  is  rich  in  valuable  medicinal  plants 
and  the  forests  are  filled  with  copaiba,  balsam, 
cabima,  ipecacuanha,  sarsaparilla,  cola,  tolu, 
aloes,  elemi,  etc.  etc.  The  natives  collect  and  sell 
these  in  small  quantities  and  in  an  erratic  man- 
ner and  prepare  them  carelessly;  but  there  is  a 
big  field  for  the  development  of  a  regular  busi- 
ness in  these  forest  products.  In  addition  to  the 
medicinal  plants,  there  are  quantities  of  vanilla, 
.locust  gum,  balata,  chicle,  rubber,  dividivi, 
anotto,  ivory  nuts,  palm-oil  nuts,  fibers,  dye 
woods,  rattan,  and  many  other  products  which 
would  find  a  ready  and  profitable  market  if 
systematically  gathered  and  properly  prepared. 
MINERAL  RESOURCES 

Panama  is  extremely  rich  in  its  mineral 
resources  and  aside  from  the  gold  mines  of  the 
old  days  and  a  few  oil,  copper,  platinum  and 
manganese  mines  which  are  being  worked, 
the  mineral  wealth  has  been  absolutely  neglected. 


204  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

In  addition  to  the  mineral  resources  in  the  follow- 
ing list  there  are  deposits  of  marl,  clay,  silica 
and  other  ingredients  from  which  cement  could 
be  made  and  which  are  near  the  Canal  and 
accessible  to  tide-water,  and  yet  one  of  the  largest 
of  imports  is  cement  and  not  a  single  cement 
works  exists.  Bricks  and  tiles  are  manufactured 
on  a  small  scale  locally,  but  there  is  no  up-to- 
date  brick  and  tile  factory  and  yet  the  beds  of 
clay  suitable  for  this  work  are  almost  incal- 
culable in  extent.  There  are  also  beds  of  fire 
clay,  of  molding  sand,  of  umbers  and  ochres  and 
of  other  mineral  paints.  Excellent  granite,  por- 
phyry, serpentine,  limestone,  onyx  and  other 
building  and  ornamental  stones  are  abundant; 
but  none  are  utilized,  while  kaolin  and  other  fine 
grade  clays  are  common.  The  following  list  of 
minerals  known  to  occur  is  far  from  complete 
and  includes  only  those  which  the  author  has 
personally  seen. 

AMETHYST 

These  crystals  occur  in  Veraguas  and  in  the 
ancient  Indian  graves  very  beautiful  amethyst 
ornaments  are  at  times  found. 

AGATES 

Very  beautiful  agates  occur  throughout  the 
Republic.  Large  numbers  are  sold  in  Colon  and 
Panama  City  under  the  name  of  ''Canal  Stones," 
but  many  of  the  cut  and  mounted  stones  thus 


THE  RESOURCES  OF  PANAMA    205 

sold  are  imported  and  artificially  colored,  while 
others  are  cheap  imitations  made  from  stained 
jnother-of-pearl.  Local  agates  are  of  every 
imaginable  color  and  include  very  fine  moss 
agates.  In  parts  of  Veragnas  masses  of  agate 
many  tons  in  weight  are  often  seen. 
ANTIMONY 

Antimony  occurs  in  connection  with  copper  in 
many   places   and   in   the   form   of  Stibnite  or 
Antimony  Glance  in  both  Code  and  the  Darien 
district. 
ARSENIC 

Common    in    many    places.     The    "Lake    of 
Death"  described  in  another  chapter  is  probably 
impregnated  with  arsenic  salts  as  arsenic  ores 
are  abundant  in  its  neighborhood. 
ASBESTOS 

In  Cocl6  where  it  was  formerly  mined. 
BERYL 

Small  but  very  beautifully  colored  beryls,  as 
well  as  emeralds  and  aquamarines,  are  not  un- 
common in  the  gold-bearing  gravels  of  Darien 
and  near  Colon.  No  large  stones  have  been 
found  and  the  source  of  the  crystals  is  unknown. 
BISMUTH 

Found  in  combination  with  tin  and  lead  ore 
in  Veraguas  and  as  bismutite  in  Chiriqui. 
BLOODSTONE 

Very   large  and  handsome  masses  of  blood- 


206  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

stone  are  found  in  the  Bayano  River  and  its 
tributaries. 

CARNOTITE 

Rare,  but  occasionally  found  in  small  masses 
in  the  fossil  trees  of  Veraguas. 

CHALCEDONY 

Abundant  in  connection  with  agate  and  also  in 
masses  in  the  hills  near  La  Palma,  Darien. 

CHROMITE 

A  very  large  proportion  of  the  black  sand  on 
the  sea  shores  and  in  the  beds  of  streams  in 
Panama  and  Colon  provinces  is  composed  of 
beautiful,  octahedral  crystals  of  chromite. 
Chrome  iron  also  occurs  in  Veraguas  and  other 
localities. 

CINNABAR 

Masses  of  cinnabar  are  often  found  in  the 
**guacas"  or  ancient  Indian  graves  having  ev- 
idently been  used  as  pigment  and  the  Chokois 
and  Kunas  also  use  it.  Metallic  mercury  also 
occurs  in  several  localities  in  decomposed  rock 
which  formerly  contained  cinnabar. 

COAL 

As  lignite  in  many  places.  Also  as  cannel 
coal  in  Veraguas. 

COBALT 

Cobalt  bloom  occurs  with  nickel  and  copper 
in  Los  Santos. 


THE  RESOURCES  OF  PANAMA     207 

CADlVnUM 

In  connection  with  lead  and  tin  in  Veraguas. 
COPPER 

Occurs  in  many  places  in  Chiriqui,  Veraguas, 
Code,  Ilerrera,  Los  Santos,  Colon  and  Panama 
provinces.  The  largest  known  deposits  are  in 
Veraguas  where,  for  over  an  area  of  ten  square 
miles,  there  are  scores  of  outcrops  of  ore.  In 
this  section  the  copper  is  mainly  in  the  form  of 
carbonates,  but  there  are  also  deposits  of  native 
copper  in  Veraguas  and  Chiriqui  and  of  pyrites 
in  Los  Santos  and  Darien. 
CORUNDUM 

Corundum  occurs  in  many  of  the  river  gravels 
and  in  isolated  masses  in  many  places. 
DIAMONDS 

Minute  diamonds,  mainly  the  so  called  "black" 
variety,  occur  in  the  river  gravels  of  the  Darien 
and    also    near    Colon.     They    have    also    been 
found  in  Veraguas. 
EMERALDS 

Occur  in  small  water-worn  crystals  in  the  river 
gravels  of  Darien  and  near  Colon.     See  Beryl. 
EMERY 

■    Emery,  a  mixture  of  corundum  and  other  hard 
abrasives  is  common  in  river  gravels. 
FLUORITE 

In  large  masses  of  pale  blue  and  sea-green 
in  Veraguas  near  Santa  Fe. 


208    PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

GARNETS 

Very  abundant  in  the  alluvial  sands  of  many 
rivers  and  in  situ  in  many  localities.  None  of 
gem  value  have  been  found. 

GOLD 

In  every  province.  Practically  every  stream 
jn  Panama  carries  gold  and  I  even  have  obtained 
"colors"  from  piles  of  gravel  brought  from 
Gamboa  to  be  used  for  concrete  work  in  Colon. 
Few  streams  however,  carry  enough  gold  to  work 
profitably  by  hand,  but  there  are  many  where 
dredging  would  pay.  In  the  old  Spanish  days 
there  were  many  rich  placers  worked  and  no 
doubt  thorough  prospecting  would  result  in  find- 
ing these,  or  others  equally  rich.  Gold  bearing 
quartz  occurs  in  many  districts.  Partly  de- 
composed quartz  carrying  half  an  ounce  of  metal 
to  the  ton  occurs  near  Colon  and  many  of  the 
old  Spanish  mines  in  Veraguas  are  still  very 
rich.  The  famous  Darien  mine  still  carries  good 
values  and  its  tailings  might  be  worked  at  a 
profit,  as  methods  used  in  the  old  days  were 
very  crude  and  much  of  the  values  were  wasted. 
In  many  localities  are  to  be  found  old  Spanish 
stone  *'molinas"  or  mills  where  the  rich  quartz 
was  crushed  and  then  panned  out  by  hand.  For 
an  account  of  the  vast  amounts  of  gold  taken 
out  by  the  Spaniards,  see  Chapter  IX. 


THE  RESOURCES  OF  PANAMA    209 

GRAPHITE 

In  small  flakes  in  Veraguas  and  Code  and  as 
graphite   schists   in   other   localities;   especially 
Chiriqui. 
IRON 

Iron  is  very  abundant  throughout  Panama. 
In  places  there  are  enormous  beds  of  hematite 
and  in  one  locality  in  Veraguas  there  is  a  huge 
deposit  of  a  remarkable  ore  composed  mainly 
of  crystals  of  magnetite  cemented  together  with 
silica.  Large  deposits  of  specular  hematite 
occur  in  Colon  Province  near  the  Bayano  and 
there  are  also  many  deposits  of  pyrites.  The 
black  sand  of  many  rivers  is  mainly  composed 
of  magnetite. 
JASPER 

With  agates,  which  see. 
LEAD 

Nodules  of  argentiferous  galena  are  found  near 
Colon  and  Porto  Bello  and  in  Los  Santos  and 
there  is  a  large  deposit  in  Veraguas. 
MANGANESE 

Immense    deposits    occur    in    Veraguas    and 
Colon  provinces.     The  latter  have  been  worked 
for  several  years  and  a  railway  is  now  being 
built  to  connect  the  mines  with  the  sea. 
MERCURY 

See  cinnabar. 


210  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

MICA 

Common  throughout  the  country  but  seldom 
in  large  masses. 
MOLYBDENUM 

Some  very  fine   samples  have   been  brought 
from  the  Darien  district,  but  the  place  of  occur- 
rence is  not  known. 
MOONSTONES 

Small  but  perfect  moonstones  are  common  in 
many  of  the  rivers  in  Colon  and  Panama  prov- 
inces. 
NICKEL 

"With  copper  in  Los  Santos  and  Code.    Usually 
in  small  quantities.     In  Dunite  in  Darien  and 
in  pyrites  in  Veraguas.     Not  as  yet  found  in 
sufficient  quantities  to  work. 
OIL 

Oil  seepages  occur  in  many  places  and  in  one 
locality  in  Veraguas  there  is  a  pool  of  white  oil 
which  the  natives  dip  up  and  use  in  lamps.  An 
oil  company  is  at  present  prospecting  in  Bocas 
del  Toro  and  oil  has  been  obtained  by  drilling 
in  Darien  near  Garaehine.  In  Colon  province 
there  are  beds  of  oil-bearing  shales. 
OLIVINES 

Abundant  as  crystals  in  the  pyroxene  rocks 
of  Colon  province  and  as  water-worn  pebbles  in 
the  Darien  district. 


THE  RESOURCES  OF  PANAMA    211 

ONYX 

Very  beautiful  black  and  white  onyx  occurs 
commonly  on  the  plains  of  Veraguas  and  Code, 
especially  in  the  fossil  trees.  A  form  resembling 
Mexican  onyx  is  in  large  masses  near  Santa  Fe, 
Veraguas. 
OPAL 

Plain  opal  is  common ;  but  no  fire  or  precious 
opals  have  been  reported. 
PERIDOTS 

Beautiful  but  small  crystals  occur  commonly 
in    many    of    the    platinum    and    gold-bearing 
gravels. 
PLATINUM 

In  the  residual  and  alluvial  gravels  of  certain 
streams  in  Darien  and  Colon  province.     It  occurs 
very  close  to  the  city  of  Colon,  but  in  insuffi- 
cient quantities  to  work  at  a  profit. 
QUARTZ 

Everywhere   abundant;   often    in  magnificent 
crystals  and  in  places  in  stupendous  masses  form- 
ing high  hills. 
SAPPHIRE 

In  river  gravels.    Usually  white  or  very  pale 
bluish-gray. 
SILVER 

Everywhere  in  small  quantities.    Many  of  the 
river  gravels  are  high  in  silver  and  the  lead  and 


212  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

tin  ores  carry  a  good  percentage,  as  do  many  of 
the    copper    ores.    Occasionally     as    irregular 
nuggets    of    native    silver    in    Veraguas    and 
Chiriqui. 
SULPHUR 

Very  large  deposits  in  Code,  Veraguas,  Los 
Santos  and  Chiriqui. 
TIN 

With  lead,  zinc  etc.  in  a  deposit  in  Veraguas 
and  in  small  nodules  and  nuggets  as  native  tin 
in  the  sands  of  a  stream  in  Chiriqui.     Also  as 
cassiterite  or  stream  tin  in  some  streams. 
TOPAZ 

White  topaz  is  common  and  a  few  very  fine 
yellow  crystals  are  found.     Occurs  in  decomposed 
rock. 
TOURMALINE 

Not  uncommon  in  small  green  and  black  crys- 
tals, especially  in  a  peculiar  form  of  sandstone 
in  the  Darien  district.     Large,  commercially  val- 
uable crystals  have  not  as  yet  been  found. 
TUNGSTEN 

A  few  very  rich  samples  of  Scheelite  have 
been  found  in  streams  in  Colon  province. 
TURQUOISE 

Small  masses  of  very  handsome  turquoise  have 
been  taken  from  Veraguas  province. 
URANIUM 

See  camotite. 


THE  RESOURCES  OF  PANAMA     213 

VANADIUM 

As  vanadate  of  lead  in  small  quantities  from 
Veraguas. 
ZINC 

Very  abundant  in  many  forms.     Zinc  blend 
forms  a  very  large  content  of  the  lead-tin  ores 
of  Veraguas. 
ZIRCON 

In  the  river  gravels  with  chromite,  magnetite 
etc, 
PEARL  BEDS 

Since  the  earliest  day  of  the  Spaniards,  Pan- 
ama has  been  famous  for  its  pearls  and  while 
many  of  the  beds  have  been  so  continuously 
fished  as  to  be  almost  exhausted  there  are  still 
great  reefs  and  beds  which  are  practically  un- 
touched. Up  to  the  present  the  pearl  industry 
has  been  carried  on  without  any  real  system 
and  mainly  by  individual  natives  who  dive  down 
and  bring  up  the  shells  by  hand.  A  few  have 
used  diving  apparatus,  but  there  has  been  no 
organized,  intelligent  fishery  carried  on.  Pearl 
shells  are  abundant  along  the  entire  Pacific 
coast  of  Panama  and  especially  about  the  out- 
lying islands  and  there  is  no  reason  why  the 
fishery  should  not  be  developed  and  made  very 
lucrative. 
TIMBER 

Panama  is  very  rich  in  timber  and  in  the 


214  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

forests    are    many   valuable    cabinet,    building, 
ornamental  and  dye  woods.     Mahogany,  which 
rivals  the  Santo  Domingo  variety,  is  abundant, 
especially  along  the  coasts  of  Veraguas  and  cedar, 
cocobolo,  espave,  cazique,  amarillo,  lignum-vitae 
and    many    other   beautiful    and   useful    woods 
abound.     There  are  several  hundred  species  of 
trees  found  in  Panama  and  few  of  these  are 
known  to  science  or  bear  botanical  names.    There 
are  several  lumber  companies  operating  in  Pan- 
ama and  a  considerable  quantity  of  timber  and 
wood  is  used  locally,  especially  cocobolo,  cedar 
and  mahogany.    As  a  rule,  the  valuable  woods 
are  scattered,  for  there  are  no  large   areas  of 
forest  of  one  kind  of  trees  with  the  exception 
of  the  Mangrove  swamps  of  the  coasts  and  the 
oak    forests    of    the    higher    mountains.     As    a 
result,  it  frequently  costs  more  to  get  the  timber 
out  than  it  is  worth.     However,  if  a  local  or  out- 
side market  could  be  found  for  the  less  valuable 
woods  so  that  everything  could  be  cut  and  uti- 
lized the  problem  would  be  solved.     Some  of  the 
trees   grow   to    enormous   size.     I   have   seen   a 
"bongo"  or  native  schooner  made  from  a  single 
cedar  log  and  which  measured  forty  seven  feet 
in  length  and  was  six  feet  in  beam  at  the  bottom, 
over  nine  feet  across  the  top  and  five  feet  in 
depth.    At   San  Lorenzo    (Veraguas)    I  saw  a 


THE  RESOURCES  OF  PANAMA    215 

forty  foot  launch  hull  cut  and  hollowed  from  a 
single  mahogany  log. 
WHALES 

Panama  Bay  in  former  days  was  a  famous 
whaling  ground.  To-day  whales  are  common 
and  porpoises,  grampus  and  killers  are  abundant, 
as  are  sharks.  There  is  no  reason  why  an  in- 
dustry should  not  be  established  to  carry  on  a 
fishery  of  whales,  sharks,  porpoises,  etc.  for  their 
oil  and  hides. 


APPENDIX 

SOME  FACTS  AND  FIGURES 

CHRONOLOGY  OF  MOST  IMPORTANT 

HISTORICAL  EVENTS 

(*)  1502  Columbus  anchored  in  Almirante  Bay  in 
May  and  later  landed  at  Porto  Bello  and 
established  a  settlement  at  the  ^Nlouth  of 
Belen  River  which  he  named  Santa  ]\Iaria 
de  Belen.  Owing  to  attacks  by  Indians 
this  settlement  was  abandoned  in  April 
1503. 

1508  Diego  de  Nicuesa  commissioned  to  con- 
quer and  colonize  the  Isthmus. 

1509  Nicuesa  arrived  with  300  men  from  Santo 
Domingo  in  November  and  settled  at 
Nombre  de  Dios. 

1510  Martin  Fernandez  de  Enciso  established 
the  settlement  of  Santa  Maria  la  Antigua 
del  Darien.    Balboa  arrived  with  Eneaso. 

1511  On  March  1st.  Nicuesa  was  forced  to  sail 

^  According^  to  many  historians  Panama  actually  was  discov- 
ered by  Bastidas  who  sailed  from  Spain  in  October  1501 
and  is  said  to  have  reached  the  Isthmus  a  few  months  be- 
fore Columbus. 

217 


218  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

in  a  miserable  ship  with  only  seventeen 
men  and  was  never  heard  from  thereafter. 

1513  Balboa  started  to  cross  the  Isthmus  on 
September  1st. 

1514  Balboa  returned  to  Santa  Maria  January 
19th.  after  discovering  the  Pacific  and 
acquiring  booty  in  gold  and  pearls  valued 
at  one  hundred  thousand  gold  Castellanos. 

1514  Pedro  Arias  de  Avila,  known  as  Pedrarias 
the  Cruel,  reached  Santa  Maria  del 
Darien  as  governor  in  June.  First  women 
and  first  priests  arrived  at  this  time. 
1514-1519  Towns  of  Santa  Cruz  and  Los  Andes 
founded.  Country  explored  as  far  as 
present  provinces  of  Code,  Los  Santos 
and  Veraguas. 

1519  Old  Panama  founded  by  Pedrarias  and 
Espinosa,  August  15th. 

1520  Town  of  Nata  (Cocle  Province)  founded 
by  Espinosa. 

1521  Santiago  de  Veraguas  founded. 

1522  San  Francisco  de  la  Montana  de  Vera- 
guas founded. 

1533  Pizarro  set  forth  from  Panama  to  con- 
quer Peru. 

1534  Pascual  de  Andagoya  sent  by  Spanish 
king  to  survey  the  Isthmus  with  the  idea 
of  constructing  an  interoceanic  waterway. 


APPENDIX  219 

(^)  1595  Sir  Francis  Drake  took  Nombre  de  Dies 
and  attempted  to  reach  Panama,  but  was 
defeated  in  the  Capira  Mountains  and 
forced  to  retreat.  He  was  wounded  and 
died  at  sea,  his  body  being  buried  at  sea 
off  Porto  Bello. 

1597  Fortifications  commenced  at  Porto  Bello 
(Portobelo). 

1602  Forts  at  Porto  Bello  (Portobelo)  com- 
pleted. 

1602  Pirate  William  Parker  captured,  burnt 
and  sacked  Porto  Bello. 

1616  Darien  partly  surveyed  with  object  of 
constructing  a,  canal  to  connect  the  two 
oceans. 

1668  Sir  Henry  Morgan  captured  Porto  Bello 
and  took  booty  to  the  value  of  $250,000. 

1670  Morgan  took  San  Lorenzo  at  IMouth  of 
the  Chagres  and  marched  on  Old  Pan- 
ama which  he  took  and  sacked,  carrying 
otf  a  number  of  nuns,  priests,  women  and 

^  There  seems  to  be  some  confusion  in  refjrard  to  this  date  as 
several  histories  (and  some  records  in  Panama)  state  tliat 
Nombre  de  Dios  was  abandoned  in  favor  of  Porto  Bello 
in  1584.  On  the  other  hand,  Drake's  own  memoirs  and 
contemporaneous  accounts  give  the  date  of  his  exploit  as 
1595  and  as  records  in  the  Archives  of  Panama  show 
that  Porto  Bello  was  not  a  town  of  any  importance  until 
the  forts  were  commenced  in  1597,  I  consider  the  date 
given  above  as  coiTect. 


220  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

girls  and  194  muleloads  of  booty.    Feb. 
24th. 
1673    Present  city  of  Panama  founded  Jan- 
uary 1st. 

1698  William  Patterson  arrived  on  the  coast 
of  Darien  and  established  a  British  col- 
ony which  he  called  Calidonia.  Oct. 
30th. 

1699  Patterson's  town  of  New  Edinburgh  and 
Calidonia  colony  abandoned  in  June. 

1699  Second  British  colonization  expedition 
arrived  with  1300  men.     Nov.  30th. 

1700  British  surrendered  to  Spaniards  and 
abandoned  their  settlement  with  full 
military  honors.    April   24th. 

1821  Liberty  proclaimed  in  Los  Santos.  Nov. 
13th. 

1821  Panama  declared  free  from  Spain  at 
Panama  City  and  Colonel  Jose  de  Fa- 
brega  placed  in  supreme  command,  Nov. 
27th.     Panama  joined  with  Colombia. 

1831  Panama  declared  independent  of  Colom- 
bia and  Simon  Bolivar  called  upon  to  aid 
in  union  of  a  greater  Colombia.  Gen- 
eral Jose  Domingo  Espinar  assumed 
control.     Sept.  26th. 

1831  Panama  again  incorporated  with  Colom- 
bia by  decree  of  Dec.  11th. 


APPENDIX  221 

1838  Concession  for  canals,  railways,  etc. 
panted  French  company. 

1849  Gold  rush  to  California  when  large  num- 
bers of  the  "Argonauts"  passed  through 
the  Isthmus. 

1850  Panama  Railway  commenced  in  May. 
1850     City  of  Aspinwall   (Colon)   founded  by 

Americans. 
1855    Panama   Railway   completed.     January 
27th. 

1878  Universal  Interoceanic  Canal  Company 
organized  by  Ferdinand  de  Lesseps, 

1879  Committee  met  in  Paris  and  decided  up- 
on a  sea  level  canal  to  be  completed  in 
twelve  years  at  a  cost  of  $240,000,000. 

1881  First  of  French  engineers  arrived  on 
Isthmus  to  survey  route  for  canal. 

1888  Excavation  work  formally  started. 
Plans  altered  to  a  lock  canal. 

1889  French  company  became  bankrupt. 
Work  stopped  May  15th. 

1894  New  French  company  formed. 

1895  Work  resumed  on  excavations. 

1903  Herran-Hay  treaty  rejected  by  Colom- 
bia, August  12th. 

1903  Negotiations  begun  with  U.  S.  to  rec- 
ognize Panama's  independence. 

1903  Act  of  Independence  issued  and  Jose 
Agustin    Arango,    Federico    Boyd    and 


222  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Tomas      Arias      appointed      Governing 
Committee.     Nov.  3rd. 

1903  Canal  treaty  with  U.  S.  signed,  Nov.  18th. 

1904  Doctor  Guerrero  appointed  President  of 
the  new  Eepublic.     Jan.  15th. 

1904  Active  work  commenced  on  Canal.  May 
4th. 

1914  Canal  opened  to  traffic.  Steamship 
ANCON  passed  through  with  officials  and 
notable  personages.     August  15th. 

1921  United  States  agreed  to  pay  Colombia 
indemnity  of  $25,000,000.  for  loss  of  Pan- 
ama. 

1921  War  between  Panama  and  Costa  Rica 
over  international  boundary. 

PRESIDENTS  OF  REPUBLIC  OF  PANAMA 

1904    Dr.  Manuel  Amador  Guerrero,  appointed 
President 
1908-1909    Jose  Domingo  de  Obaldia,  elected  Pres- 
ident 
1910    Carlos   A.    Mendoza,    Vice-President   in 
charge  of  Executive  Power 
1910-1912     Pablo     Arosemena,     Vice-President     in 
charge  of  Executive  Power 
1912    Rodolfo  Chiari,  Vice-President  in  charge 
of  Executive  Power 
1912-1916     Belisario  Porras,  elected  President 
1916    Ramon  Valdes,  elected  President 


APPENDIX  223 

1918    Dr.    Belisario    Porras,    appointed    Pres- 
ident 

1920  Ernesto  T.  Le  Febre,  in  charge  of  Execu- 
tive Power 

1921  Dr.  Belisario  Porras,  elected  President 

SIZE  OF  PANAMA 

Area : — 32,000  square  miles,  or  four  times  the  size  of 
Belgium  or  twice  the  size  of  Vermont  and  New 
Hampshire   combined.     Area   under  cultivation — 
about  400  square  miles. 
Greatest  length :    435  miles. 
Greatest  width :     114  miles. 
Narrowest  portion:  30  miles. 

Highest  mountain :    Volcan  de  Chiriqui :     7,200  ft. 
Eivers  flowing  into  Atlantic :     180. 
Rivers  flowing  into  Pacific :     300. 
Total  number   of   rivers:    480. 

POPULATION   OP  REPUBLIC   OF  PANAMA 

Exclusive  of  Canal  Zone 
Total  population,  approximate:    450,000 

Whites 60,000 

Mixed  Indian-White       ....  200,000 

Negr(  33  and  colored       ....  100,000 

Indians 50,000 

Moi^golians 5,000 

Of  which  about  75,000  are  foreigners. 


224  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

About  10,000  more  men  than  women. 
Population  of  Panama  City,  approximately:    70,000 
Population  of  Colon,  approximately:     35,000 

PRINCIPAL  PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS  IN  PANAMA 

National  Institute,  Panama  City.  Normal  School 
for  girls,  Panama  City.  School  of  Arts  and 
Crafts,  Panama  City.  Professional  School  for 
Women,  Panama  City.  School  of  Agriculture, 
Panama  City.  Orphan  Asylum,  Panama  City. 
Santo  Tomas  Hospital,  Panama  City.  Museum, 
Panama  City.  Chiriqui  Prison,  Panama  City. 
Penal  Colony,  Coiba  Island. 

MONETARY   SYSTEM   OF  PANAMA 

Standard :    Gold 

Standard  unit  is  the  Balboa  of  one  hundred  centis- 
simos  equal  to  $1.00  United  States  gold. 

Fractional  currency:  %,  %,  Yio,  and  ^o  Balboa  in 
silver  coins  and  two  and  one-half  cent  nickel  pieces. 

The  gold  Balboa  is  never  coined  and  with  the  in- 
crease in  the  value  of  silver  during  the  war  all  Pan- 
amanian silver  was  withdrawn  from  circulation 
with  the  exception  of  the  ^o  Balboa  pi  ces  (equal 
to  five  cents  United  States)  which  are  lecessary, 
as  the  public  telephones  are  designed  for  them,  and 
the  two  and  one-half  cent  nickel  pieces. 

United  States  gold,  silver,  nickels,  cents  ana  paper 
pass  current  throughout  the  Eepublic. 

Wealth  per  capita  is  estimated  at  $10.00 


APPENDIX  225 

Accounts  and  other  business  affairs  are  kept  in 
Balboas  (B),  but  in  ordinary  business  transactions 
the  term  "Dollars"  is  used. 

In  outlying  districts,  among  the  poorer  classes,  and 
also  the  market  people  and  smaller  shop  keepers, 
the  terms  "Pesos"  "Reales"  and  "Medias"  are 
used.  The  Peso  is  the  Panamanian  half  Balboa  or 
fifty  cents  gold.  The  Keal  is  the  one-twentieth 
Balboa  or  five  cents  gold  and  the  Media  is  the 
half  real  or  two  and  one-half  cents. 

To  distinguish  between  prices  or  amounts  in  Pan- 
amanian silver  or  American  currency  the  terms 
"Gold"  or  "Silver"  are  used,  the  former  signify- 
ing Dollars,  the  latter  Pesos. 

WEIGHTS  ^VND   MEASURES 

Metric  system  standard,  but  American  yards,  quarts, 

gallons,   pounds,  ounces,   acres,  tons,  etc.,  widely 

used  in  Panama  City  and  Colon. 
Standard  Measures  are : 

Long    Measure:     Millimeter,    Centimeter,    Meter, 
Kilometer 

Liquid  Measure:    Litre 

Square  Measure :     Square  Meter  and  Hectare  or 
Hectaria 

Weights:     Kilogram  and  Kilo 
In  addition,  many  old  Spanish  weights  and  measures 

are  in  use  in  the  interior  and  outlying  districts. 


226  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

LANGUAGE 

Ofl&cially  Spanish,  but  nearly  all  the  leading  mer- 
chants, business  men  and  educated  people  speak 
English.  In  Colon,  English  is  spoken  by  nearly 
every  one. 

EXPORTS  AND  IMPORTS 

Total  exports  and  imports,  approximately  $15,000,000 

Exports  approximately 5,000,000 

Imports  approximately 10,000,000 

Commerce  principally  with  United  States. 

Principal  exports:  Bananas,  coconuts,  balata,  ivory 
nuts,  manganese,  timber,  raw  hides,  pearl  shells. 

Principal  imports :  Animal  food  stuffs,  vegetable  food 
stuffs,  fruit  and  grain,  textiles  and  vegetable  manu- 
factures, hides  and  skins,  wood  and  wood  manu- 
factures, preserved  meats,  woolens,  silks  and  animal 
products. 

MANUFACTURES  AND  INDUSTRIES 

Ice  factories,  pearl  button  factories,  brick  and  tile 
factories,  biscuit  factories,  saw  mills  and  wood-work- 
ing establishments,  soap  manufacturies,  brewery, 
bottling  works,  foundries,  hat  making,  saddles  and 
bridles,  shoes,  mahagua  rope,  sisal  rope,  tortoise 
shell  objects,  furniture,  boats. 


APPENDIX  227 

PROVINCES   OF   PANAMA    WITH   POPULATION,  ETC. 

Panama  is  divided  into  eight  provinces,  as  follows: 
Panama,  Colon,  Code,  Herrera,  Los  Santos, 'Vera- 
guas,  Chiriqui,  Bocas  Del  Toro. 

PROVINCE   OF   PANAMA: 

Capital:  Panama  City  with  about  70,000  inhabit- 
ants. 

Total  population  of  province  about  100,000. 

The  largest  and  most  populated  of  the  provinces. 
Its  surface  is  varied  including  broad  plains  and 
valleys,  high  mountains,  grassy  pasture  lands  and 
heavy  forests.  There  are  numerous  streams  and 
several  large  rivers  in  the  province  and  its  natu- 
ral resources  are  very  great.  The  Pearl  Islands 
are  included  in  this  province. 

PROVINCE   OF   COLON  : 

Capital:  Colon  with  about  35,000  inhabitants. 

Total  population  of  province  about  50,000. 

Principal  products :  coconuts,  ivory  nuts  and  manga- 
nese ore.  This  is  mainly  a  hilly  province  with  a 
few  mountains  and  with  great  natural  resources, 
especially  in  timber  and  minerals.  The  San  Bias 
archipelago  is  included  in  this  province. 

PROVINCE   OF   COCL^: 

Capital:  Penonome  with  about  12,000  inhabitants. 
Other   important   towns :   Agua   Dulce,   6,500,   in- 
habitants; Anton,  7,200  inhabitants. 
Total  population  of  province  about  37,800. 


/  \ 


228  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Penonome  is  situated  in  the  interior,  about  eight 
miles  from  the  coast,  and  is  on  a  large  plain  at 
an  elevation  of  240  feet  above  sea  level. 

Agua  Dulce,  the  chief  port,  is  two  miles  from  the 
sea  on  a  plain.     Its  principal  industry  is  salt. 

Anton  is  also  on  a  plain  between  two  rivers.  Its 
chief  industry  is  cattle  raising.  About  2,000 
steers  yearly  are  shipped  to  Panama  City.  It  is 
130  feet  above  the  sea,  between  two  rivers  and  in 
a  rich  country.  It  is  a  favorite  summer  resort 
for  the  people  of  Panama  who  find  in  the  high 
Anton  Valley  (2120  feet  above  the  sea)  a  spring- 
like, delightful  climate, 

Nata,  founded  in  1520,  and  the  oldest  inhabited 
town  on  continental  America,  is  also  in  Code 
Province. 

Principal  products:  cattle,  salt,  sugar,  rubber, 
coffee,  hats. 

PROVINCE   OP  HERRERA: 

Capital :  Chitre  with  about  6,000  inhabitants. 

Total  population  of  province  about  28,000  in- 
habitants. 

Principal  products:  cattle,  horses,  poultry,  rum, 
coffee  and  cocoa,  medicinal  plants,  and  rubber. 

PROVINCE  OF  LOS  SANTOS: 

Capital:  Las  Tablas  with  about  8,000  inhabitants. 
Total  population  of  province  about  36,000  inhabit- 
ants. 
Products  same  as  Herrera. 


APPENDIX  229 

PROVINCE   OF  VEBAQUAS: 

Capital :  Santiago  with  about  6,000  inhabitants. 

Total  population  of  province  about  70,000  inhabit- 
ants. 

Other  towns  are:  Caiiazas,  Las  Palmas,  La  ^lesa, 
Calobre,  all  with  a  population  of  over  2,000  in- 
habitants. 

Chief  ports:  Puerto  Mutis,  Sona. 

Principal  products:  cattle,  medicinal  plants,  rice, 
coconuts,  rubber,  fruits. 

A  large  part  of  this  province  consists  of  broad, 
grassy  plains  reaching  from  the  coastal  hills  to 
the  foot  hills  of  the  Cordilleras.  In  the  hills  and 
mountains  are  numerous  mineral  deposits;  the 
forests,  especially  near  the  coast,  are  filled  with 
mahogany,  cedar,  cocobolo  and  other  valuable 
woods  and  the  soil  is  very  fertile.  Formerly  the 
greatest  gold  producing  district  in  the  world. 
The  oldest  occupied  building  on  the  continent  is 
the  church  at  San  Francisco  de  la  Montaiia  de 
Veraguas  built  in  1522. 

PROVINCE  OF  CHIRIQUI: 

Capital:  David  with  about  6,500  inhabitants. 

Total  population  of  province  about  75,000  inhabit- 
ants. 

Chief  port:  Pedregal. 

Other  cities:  Tole,  Remedios. 

David  is  situated  on  a  rich  plain  at  about  200  feet 
above  sea  level  and  four  and  one-half  miles  from 


230  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

its  port  of  Pedregal.  From  Pedregal  a  rail- 
way line  runs  to  David  and  hence  to  Boquete  at 
an  altitude  of  nearly  4,000  feet  and  32  miles  from 
David.  There  are  also  branch  lines  to  Potretillos 
and  La  Concepcion.  The  highest  peak  of  the 
Cordilleras  is  in  Chiriqui,  the  volcano  of  that 
name  rising  to  nearly  8,000  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  country  is  rich  and  varied,  consisting  of  level 
plains,  deep  valleys,  elevated  plateaus,  rolling 
hills  and  rugged  mountains.  It  has  vast  re- 
sources in  minerals,  forests,  agricultural  and 
grazing  lands,  etc. 
Principal  products  are  coffee,  cacao,  tobacco,  rubber, 
garden  truck,  cattle,  houses,  saddles,  fruit,  pearl 
shells. 

PROVINCE  OF  BOCAS  DEL  TORO : 

Capital:  Bocas  del  Toro  with  about  5,000  inhabit- 
ants. 

Total  population  of  province  about  25,000  inhabit- 
ants. 

Other  cities:  Almirante  on  Almirante  Bay. 

The  United  Fruit  Company  railway  extends  from 
Almirante  into  Costa  Rica  and  the  company's 
ships  make  Almirante  a  regular  port  of  calL 

Principal  products:  bananas,  cacao,  timber. 

SOME  FACTS  AND  FIGURES  OF  THE  PANAMA  CANAL 

Total  area  of  Canal  Zone 436  sq.  ini. 

WEST   BREAKWATER: 

Length  of  west  breakwater    ....    11,700  ft, 


APPENDIX  231 

"Width   at  top 15  ft. 

Height  above  meaii  sea  level  ....  10  ft. 

Contents 2,840,000  cu.  yd. 

Cost $5,500,000 

CANAL : 

Lentjth  of  Canal  from  Atlantic  to  Pacific  .  50  mi. 
Lenffth  of  Canal  from  Coast  to  Coast  .  .  40  mi. 
Minimum  width  of  Canal  bottom  .  .  .  .  300  ft. 
Width  of  Canal  for  fifteen  mi.  from  Gatun  1,000  ft. 
Widtii  of  Canal  for  ne.xt  four  miles  .  .  .  800  ft. 
Width  of  Canal  for  next  four  miles  .  .  .  500  ft. 
Depth  of  Canal 45  to  85  ft. 

LOCK.S : 

Lock  chambers,  length,  each     ....     1,000  ft. 

Lock  chambers,  width,  each 110  ft. 

Lock  walls,  height 50  to  90ft. 

Lock  gates,  length 65  ft. 

Lock  gates,  height 47  to  82  ft. 

Lock  gates,  thickness 7  ft. 

Lock  gates,  weight,  each  ....  390  to  730  tons 

Lock  gates,  number  used 92 

Lock  gates,  weight  of  total  number  .     60,000  tons 

Fender  chains,  number 24 

Fender  chains,  weight,  each  ....  24,098  lbs. 
Pressure  rcfjuired  to  pay  out  chains,  750  pounds  to 
square  inch.  A  10,000  ton  ship  proceeding  at 
four  knots  per  hour  can  be  brought  to  a  stand- 
still within  a  distance  of  seventy  three  feet  by 
these  chains. 


232  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Total  number  of  lock  chambers  ....  12 

Number  of  lock  chambers  at  Gatun  .     .  6 

Number  of  lock  cha)tnbers  at  Pedro  Miguel  2 

Number  of  lock  chambers  at  Miraflores  .  4 

EXCAVATIONS : 

cu.  yd. 

Amt.  of  material  excavated  by  French  .  80,000,000 

Amount  excavated  by  Americans  .     .     212,504,000 

Total  excavation  for  Canal  proper  .    242,000,000 

Or  enough  to  excavate  a  tunnel  thirteen  feet  wide 

through  the  globe. 

CONCRETE : 

Concrete  used  in  construction  of  locks  and  works: 
5,000,000  cubic  yards,  or  enough  to  construct  a 
wall  12  feet  high,  8  feet  wide  and  266  miles  long. 

PACIFIC   BREAKWATER: 

Length  of  breakwater  between  Balboa 

and  Naos  Island 3  mi. 

Width  at  top 50  ft. 

Greatest  width 3,000  ft. 

Height  above  mean  sea  level  .     .      .     .  20  to  40  ft. 
Contents 18,000,000  cu.  yd. 

OPERATING  TIME: 

Average  time  for  filling  and  emptying  a 
lock  chamber 15  man. 

Average  time  for  passing  a  ship  through 
all  locks 3  hrs. 

Average  time  for  passing  a  ship  through 

entire  Canal 5  to  8  hrs. 


APPENDIX  233 

GATUN    DAM  : 

Length  of  Gatun  Dam,  about  .     .      .     .       li/onii. 

Witlth  at  base '  .mi. 

Width  at  top 100  fe«>t 

Width  at  water  level 400  feet 

Height  above  sea  at  crest  ....  105  feet 
Height  above  normal  lake  level  ...  20  feet 
Length  exposed  to  maximum  water  head     500  f«M't 

Contents 21,000,000  cubic  yards 

Composition:     Core  of  sand  and  clay  dredged  by 

hydraulic  dredges. 
Exterior :     Rock  and  other  material  excavated  by 
steam  shovels  from  canal  and  with  top  and  up- 
stream surface  riprapped. 

GATUN    SPILLWAY: 

Length 1200  feet 

Width        285  feet 

Height  above  sea,  upper  end       .      .  10  feet 

Length  of  spillway  dam  ....  808  feet 
Height  of  spillway  dam  .  69  feet  above  sea  level 
Height  of  gate  piers     .     115.5  feet  above  sea  level 

HYDRO   ELECTRIC   PLANT: 

Capacity 6,000  kilowatts 

Length  of  penstocks 350  feet 

GATUN   LAKE: 

Area  with  water  at  85  feet  above  sea  level:    164 

square  miles. 
Contents  with  water  at  85  feet  above  sea  level; 

183  billion  cubic  feet. 


234  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Average  height  above  sea  during  rainy  season: 
87  feet. 

Minimum  depth  of  channel  at  which  Canal  can  be 
operated:     39   feet. 

Minimum  depth  of  channel  with  lake  at  87  feet: 
47  feet. 

Lowest  level  of  lake  at  which  Canal  can  be  op- 
erated:   79  feet. 

MIRAFLORES  LAKE: 

Length,  west  dam  (earth)  ....  2700  feet 
Height,  west  dana  above  water  ...  15  feet 
Length,  east  dam  (concrete)  .  .  .  500  feet 
Contents,  east  dam      .     .      .         75,000  cubic  yds. 

CULEBRA   CUT: 

Deepest  excavation  .  .  495  feet  at  Gold  Hill 
Depth  at  Contractor's  Hill  .  364  feet 

SLIDES : 

There  are  two  classes  of  slides  which  have  given 
trouble  in  Culebra  Cut.  The  first  is  caused  by 
the  slipping  of  a  superficial  layer  of  earth  and 
clay  on  a  surface  of  hard  material.  The  other  is 
caused  by  the  steepness  of  a  slope  and  the  pres- 
sure of  superimposed  material  upon  underlying 
softer  material. 

Greatest  number  of  steam  shovels  used  at  one 
time         43 

Greatest  monthly  excavation  in  cut  .  1,728,748 
cubic  yds. 


APPENDIX  235 


Cars  required  to  handle  above         ....  2000 

Locomotives  refjuircd  115 

Loaded  trains  per  day  160 

Miles  of  track  employed  in  cut  lOO 

Greatest  number  of  drills  u.sed  at  one  time  .  377 
Greatest  amount  of  drill  holes  made  in  one 

month  90  miles 

Average  amount  of  dynamite  used  per  year  in 

cut  3000  tons 

COSTS  AND  OTHER  ITEMS : 

Greatest  number  of  men  employed 

at  actual  work 36,000 

Value    of    French    excavations    to 

Americans          $  25,389,240. 

Value  of  all  French  property    .      .  42,799,286. 

Amount  paid  to  French  Company    .  40.000,000. 

Amount  paid  to  Panama       .      .      .  lO.ooo.OOO. 

Cost  of  maintenance  per  year,  about  ;>,00(),000. 

Total  cost  of  Canal 435,000,000. 

PANAMA  RAILWAY: 

Concession  granted  to  "Wm.  II.  A.spinwall,  Henry 

Chauncy  and  John  L.  Stephens  in  1848. 
Work  on  railway  begun     ....     May  1850 

Railway  completed January  1855 

Railway  acquired  by  United  States  .  .  1904 
Cost  of  relocation  of  railway  .  .  .  $8,866,393. 
Total  length  of  relocated  railway  .  47.11  miles 
Stations  on  railway:     Colon,  Blount   Hope,   Fort 


236    PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Davis,  Gatun,  Monte  Lirio,  Frijoles,  Darien, 
Gamboa,  Summit,  Pedro  Miguel,  Red  Tank, 
Miraflores,  Corozal,  Balboa,  Panama. 

Time  required  by  regular  trains  from  Colon  to  Pan- 
ama or  viee-versa       .     .     .     1  hr.  45  minutes. 

Fare  from  Colon  to  Panama  or  vice- versa    .     $2.40 

Week  end,  round  trip  fares,  half  rate. 

Extra  charge  for  observation  car  seat,  either 
way        $1.00 

Regular  passenger  trains  leave  Colon  and  Pan- 
ama at :    7.10  and  11.00  a.  m.    5.  p.  m. 

A   mixed   train   leaves    Colon   on   week   days   at 
11.20  p.  M. 

There   are   also   night   trains   on   Saturdays  and 
Sundays. 

Shuttle  trains  leave  Colon  at  frequent  intervals  for 
France  Field,  Coco  Solo  and  Fort  Randolph. 

Trains  also  run  from  Panama  to  Miraflores,  Pedro 
Miguel  and  Paraiso. 

Baggage  transfer  service  is  also  operated  by  the 
railway  in  Colon  and  Panama. 

PANAMA   EAILWAY   STEAMSHIP   LINE 

The  Panama  Railway  operates  passenger  and 
freight  steamers  between  New  York  and  Colon 
direct.  New  York  to  Colon  via  Haitian  ports. 
Colon  to  New  York  direct.  Colon  to  New  York 
via  Haitian  ports.  Norfolk  to  Colon.  Colon  to 
Norfolk.  Colon  to  West  Coast  of  South  Amer- 
ica.    Colon  to  Colombian  ports. 


APPENDIX  237 

Some  of  the  ships  are  very  old  and  small,  but 
others  are  large,  comfortable  and  thoroughly  up- 
to-date.  The  passenger  rates  are  lower  than  by 
other  lines,  but  as  employees  of  the  Canal  are 
given  precedence  on  ships  of  this  line  it  is  often 
difficult  for  outsiders  to  secure  berths. 


USEFUL    INFORMATION    ALPHABETICALLY 
ARRANGED 

ANIMALS : 

The  native  animals  of  Panama  are  with  few  excep- 
tions those  of  northern  South  America.     There 
are  three  species  of  deer;  the  tapir;  two  species 
of   peccaries   or  wild  hogs;  the  capybara;   the 
paca;  the  agouti;  several  squirrels;  rabbits;  the 
giant  ant  bear;  the  lesser  ant  bear;  the  tree  ant 
eater ;  raccoons ;  the  coati ;  the  kinkajou  or  honey 
bear ;  a  number  of  opossums ;  the  artnadillo ;  tree 
porcupines ;  porcupine  rats ;  a  number  of  species 
of  wood  rats  and  wild  mice ;  red  and  black  howl- 
ing monkeys ;  two  species  of  spider  monkeys ;  two 
species  of  white-faced  monkeys;  red  monkeys; 
owl  monkeys  or  night  monkeys ;  a  brown  monkey ; 
several  species  of  marmosets;   the  nutria;   the 
otter ;  the  manatee ;  the  West  Indian  seal ;  a  num- 
ber of  species  of  wild  cats ;  the  ocelot ;  the  puma ; 
the  jaguar ;  one  species  of  fox ;  a  badger ;  two  or 
three  species  of  large  weasels;  a  slrunk;  a  large 
number  of  species  of  bats;  two  species  of  sloth; 
and  a  number  of  smaller  mammals  such  as  shrews, 
moles,  etc. 

238 


APPENDIX  239 

AUTOMOBILES : 

Both  Colon  and  Panama  are  well  supplied  with 
livery  cars  and  jitneys  or  taxis.  The  tariffs  for 
taxis,  as  wrll  as  for  cars  hired  by  tiie  hour,  are 
fixed  by  law  and  every  chantTeur  is  compelled 
to  carry  a  copy  of  the  tariff  schedule  with  him 
and  is  obliged  to  show  it  upon  re(iuest.  Copies 
of  the  tariffs  may  also  be  secured  from  the  Zone 
or  Panamanian  police  or  at  the  hotels.  The  local 
chauffeurs  will  almo.st  invariably  attempt  to 
charge  more  than  the  law  allows  if  they  think 
their  prospective  fare  is  a  stranger  and  ignorant 
of  the  law.  Rates  are  very  low  compared  to 
those  in  the  United  States,  ears  costing  about 
$3.00  per  hour  and  taxi  rates  being  about  $0.15 
per  person  anywhere  in  Colon  or  Panama  City. 
Arrangements  also  may  be  made  to  hire  cars  for 
the  trip  regardless  of  time.  All  cars  must  be 
licensed  in  Panama,  as  well  as  in  the  Zone,  and 
drivers  are  compelled  to  pass  an  examination  in 
both  and  must  be  licensed.  Panamanian 
chauffeurs  are  reckless  drivers  and  must  contin- 
ually be  cautioned  against  taking  risks  and 
exceeding  the  speed  limits.  In  both  Panama  and 
the  Zone  all  vehicles  turn  to  the  left  when  meet- 
ing and  to  the  right  when  overtaking  other 
vehicles. 

BANKS: 

There  are  three  excellent  banking  institutions  in 


240  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Colon  and  Panama  City.  These  are  the  Inter- 
National  Bank,  affiliated  with  the  National 
City  Bank  of  New  York.  The  American 
Foreign  Bank.  The  Panama  Banking  Company. 
These  three  banks  have  every  facility  of  any 
large  bank  in  the  United  States.  In  addition, 
there  are  several  private  bankers  and  the 
National  Bank  which  is  a  government  institution. 

BATHING : 

There  are  excellent  bathing  pools  at  the  "Washington 
Hotel  at  Colon  and  at  the  Clubhouse  at  Balboa. 
The  former  is  a  salt  water  pool ;  the  latter  a  semi- 
fresh  water  pool.  Both  are  conducted  by  the 
Canal  Zone  government  and  are  open  to  the 
public.  There  is  also  excellent  sea  bathing  at  New 
Cristobal  beach,  at  Bella  Vista,  near  Panama,  and 
at  Taboga  Island.  There  is  no  restriction  placed 
on  costumes  worn,  one  piece  suits  being  in  com- 
mon use. 
BIRDS : 

Panama  is  very  rich  in  bird  life  and  while  no  com- 
plete list  of  the  native  birds  has  been  published 
the  birds  commonly  seen  are  similar  to  those  of 
the  neighboring  countries  of  South  and  Central 
America.  There  are  a  number  of  species  of 
parrots;  several  paroquets;  the  blue  and  yellow, 
red  and  yellow,  red  and  green  and  military 
macaws;  many  species  of  trogans,  including  the 
Quetzal   or   Resplendent   trogan;   a  number  of 


APPENDIX  241 

toucans;  cuckoos;  many  species  of  brilliant  hued 
tanagers;  a  number  of  cotingas;  the  umbn-Ua- 
bird;  a  bell-bird;  many  species  of  todys;  several 
handsome  jacamars;  a  number  of  orioles,  includ- 
ing the  troopial;  several  ca2i(}ues  or  yellow-tails; 
many  humming  birds;  vast  numbers  of  finches, 
warblers,  flycatchers,  wood-hewers,  woodpeckers, 
ant-thni.shes,  shrikes,  sparrows,  thrushes,  etc.; 
several  blackbirds  and  the  black  witch  or  tick 
bird ;  many  hawks  and  owls ;  the  Harpy  Eagle ;  a 
number  of  species  of  carrion  hawks;  several 
vultures,  including  the  King  Vulture;  gulls  and 
terns;  cormorants;  frigate  birds;  pelicans;  skim- 
mers; boobys;  herons  and  egrets;  mud  hens  and 
rails;  land  rails;  sun  bitterns;  spoonbills;  boat- 
bills;  jabirus;  white,  wood,  glossy  and  black  ibis; 
waders  of  many  kinds  and  numbers  of  ducks, 
doves  and  pigeons;  curassows  commonly  called 
wild  turkeys ;  chachalacas  or  pheasants ;  quail  and 
partridge ;  ground  doves;  quail  doves  and  jacanas, 
while,  during  the  winter,  many  of  our  common 
North  American  birds  arrive  as  migrants  and 
pass  the  winter  months  on  the  Isthmus. 
Practically  all  insectivorous  and  song  birds  are 
protected  by  law. 

BUILDINGS : 

The  most  noteworthy  buildings  to  be  seen  are  as 
follows : 


242    PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

COLON :  Railway  Station— Front  and  8th  Sts. 

Strangers  Club— Foot  of  7th  St. 

Gilbert  House — Back  of  Railway  Station. 

Customs  House — Foot  of  5th  St. 

"Washington  Hotel — ^Water  front  facing  2nd  St. 

Colon  Hospital — Second  and  G  Sts. 

Public  Market — Bolivar  and  9th  Sts. 

Public  School — ^Market  and  2nd  Sts. 

Masonic  Temple — Bolivar  and  11th  Sts. 

Commissary — Front  and  11th  Sts. 

Samaritan  Hospital — G  St. 

Union  Church— G  St. 

Biscuit  Factory — ^Broadway. 

Municipal  Building — Bolivar  and  6th  Sts. 

International  Bank — Front  and  7th  Sts. 
Post  Office— Front  and  7th  Sts. 
Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Co.  shops. 
Canal  Zone  High  School. 
CRISTOBAL:  Terminal  Building. 
Royal  Mail  S.  P.  Co.  Building. 
French  Steamship  Line  Building. 
Dutch  Steamship  Line  Building, 
Panama  R.  R.  Building. 
United  Fruit  Co.  Building.    • 
Club  House. 
Commissary  Restaurant. 
Fire  Department. 
Piers. 
Army  and  Navy  **Y". 


APPENDIX  243 


Post  Office. 

Commissary  Laundry. 

Cold  Storage  Plant,  (Mt.  Hope). 

Cristobal  Shops. 

Cristobal  Dry  Docks. 

Pnimping  Station  (Mt.  Hope). 

Printing  Plant  (Mt.  Hope). 

Fort  DeLesseps. 

Mindi  Coaling  Station. 
BALBOA:  Railway  Station. 

Administration  Building. 

Docks. 

Balboa  Terminal  Building. 

Dry  Dock. 

Machine  Shops. 

Club  House. 

Army  and  Na\'y  '*Y'*. 

Commissary. 

Commissary  Restaurant. 

Union  Church. 

Baptist  Church. 

Catholic  Welfare  House. 

Incineration  Plant. 

High  School. 

Post  Office. 

Officers'  Homes,  Quarry  Heights. 
ANCON:  Ancon  Hospital. 

Tivoli  Hotel. 

Club  House. 


244  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT. 

Commissary  Restaurant. 
Commissary. 
Post  Office. 

Masonic  Temple,  Quarry  Heights. 
Ancon  School. 
PANAMA  CITY:  Firemen's  Monument. 
Railway  Station. 
International  Hotel, 
Santa  Ana  Church — Santa  Ana  Plaza  on  Avenida 

Central. 
Las    Mercedes    Church — ^Avenida    Central    and 

10th  Sts. 
Cathedral — Plaza  Central. 
Bishop's  Residence — Plaza  Central. 
Hotel  Central — Plaza  Central. 
Municipal  Building — Plaza  Central. 
Old  French  Canal  Building — Plaza  Central. 
Presidencia — ^Water  Front  from  5th  to  6th  Sts. 

on  North  Ave. 
Marina  Hotel — ^Water  Front  from  4th  to  5th  Sts. 

on  North  Ave. 
Market — North  Ave.  and  15th  St. 
San  Felipe  de  Neri  Church — ^Ave.  B  and  4th  St 
La  Salle  College — ^Bolivar  Plaza  and  3rd  St. 
San  Francisco  Church — ^Bolivar  Plaza  and  3rd  St. 
National  Theatre — Bolivar  Plaza  and  Ave.  B. 
National  Palace — Avenida  Central  and  2nd  St. 
Union  Club — Foot  of  Avenida  Central  and  1st  St. 
Chiriqui  Prison — Foot  of  1st  St. 


APPENDIX  245 

Santo  Domingo  Church — Ave.  A  and  3rd  St. 
American  Legation — Avenida  Central  and  4th  St. 
San  Jose  Church — Ave.  A  and  8th  St. 
Electric  Light  and  Power  Co. — Foot  of  8th  St. 
Piza   Piza    Store    (Formerly   Hotel   Aspinwall) 

Avenida  Central  and  8th  St. 
Ancient  City  Walls— Ave.  A  from  10th  to  11th 

Sts. 
Santo  Tomas  Hospital — B  St. 
Bull  Ring    (Plaza  de   Toros)    on  road  to   Old 

Panama. 
Casino — on  road  to  Old  Panama. 
Orphan  Asylum — on  road  to  Old  Panama. 
Exposition    Buildings — Exposition    grounds    on 

Old  Panama  Road. 
American    Hospital — Exposition   grounds. 
New  Santo  Tomas  Hospital — Exposition  grounds. 

BULL  FIGHTS: 

Bull  fights  are  held  whenever  toreadors  are 
available  at  the  Plaza  de  Toros  in  Panama  City. 
No  horses  are  used  so  that  the  most  disgusting 
part  of  these  spectacles  is  eliminated  and  the 
fights  are  usually  very  tame  affairs,  the  native 
bulls  being,  apparently,  too  proud  to  fight. 

CABLES : 

There  is  direct  cable  communication  between  Colon 

and  Panama  City  and  every  part  of  the  world. 
Radiogrems  also  may  be  sent  and  received. 


246  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PEESENT 

CLIMATE : 

The  climate  of  Panama  is  delightful.  It  is  seldom 
oppressively  hot,  unless  one  is  exercising  in  the 
sun,  and  the  nights  are  always  cool.  On  the 
Atlantic  side  there  is  usually  a  cool  Trade  Wind 
blowing  and  in  the  interior  blankets  are  required 
at  night.  During  the  dry  season, — from  Decem- 
ber or  January  until  April  or  May, — the  climate 
is  ideal.  At  Colon,  showers  are  not  unusual 
during  this  season,  but  on  the  Pacific  side  there  is 
seldom  a  drop  of  rain.  During  the  wet  months 
rain  falls  practically  every  day  on  the  Atlantic 
side;  but  on  the  Pacific  there  are  often  several 
days  or  weeks  without  rain,  even  in  the  rainy 
season.  The  thermometer  rarely  rises  above 
85°  F.  in  the  shade  and  never  falls  below  70°  F. 

Hurricanes  are  unknown  and  severe  earthquakes 
have  not  occurred  in  historical  times. 

CLOTHING  : 

Light,  summer  weight  clothing  should  be  worn, 
although,  if  one  expects  to  visit  the  interior  or  to 
indulge  in  much  out  of  door  exercise,  thin  woolen 
undergartaents  are  advisable.  Palm  Beach,  Pon- 
gee and  white  cotton  or  linen  are  the  favorite 
materials  for  men's  suits  on  the  Isthmus.  At 
dances,  balls,  receptions  and  other  formal  func- 
tions the  gentlemen  wear  white  linen  dinner  suits, 
although  regulation  black  dinner  or  full  dress 


APPENDIX  247 

suits  are  ofton  seen.  For  trips  into  the  interior 
drill,  khaki  or  other  light,  strong  garments  should 
be  worn  with  leather  puttee  leggins  and  stout 
shoes  if  horseback  riding  is  part  of  the  program. 
For  tramping  in  the  bush,  leggins  and  heavy 
shoes  are  a  nuisance  and  cheap  can\Tis  tennis 
shoes  are  preferable.  Soft  felt  and  ordinary 
straw  hats  are  much  used,  but  Panamas  are  the 
favorites. 

COACHES : 

These  vehicles,  locally  known  as  "Coches"  or 
"Carimettas"  are  everywhere  in  evidence  in 
Colon  and  Panama  City.  Some  are  in  fair  shape, 
others  well  kept ;  but  the  majority  are  very  de- 
lapidated,  broken  down,  rickety  affairs  drawn  by 
raw-boned,  ancient  horses.  Nevertheless  they  are 
the  most  satisfactory  means  of  conveyance  if  one 
desires  to  see  the  sights  and  as  they  are  all  rubber 
tired  they  are  far  more  comfortable  than  they 
look.  The  tariff  is  the  same  as  for  motor  cars 
and  they  are  under  the  same  lajvs.  As  in  all 
other  lands,  the  coachmen  invariably  attempt  to 
overcharge  strangers. 

COMMISSARIES: 

These  are  established  and  maintained  for  the 
exclusive  use  and  benefit  of  the  Canal  Zone  em- 
ployees, members  of  the  army  and  navy  and 
those  employed  by  the  Grovernment  of  the  United 


248  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

States,    However,  a  great  many  outsiders  manage 
to  secure  commissary  books  and  avail  themselves 
of  the  low  prices. 
The  Commissary  Restaurants,  on  the  other  hand, 
are  open  to  the  public,  but  non-employees  are 
charged  twenty  cents  each  in  addition  to  their 
bills.     There  are  both  service  and  cafeteria  tables 
with  a  charge  of  ten  cents  per  person  if  served  at 
the  former.    Also,  no  one  is  allowed  to  sit  at  a 
service  table  without  coat, — a  most  peculiar  and 
ridiculous  rule  as  a  neat,  clean  shirt  is  far  prefer- 
able to  the   greasy,   soiled,   perspiration-soaked 
coats  which  one  often  sees  here.     On  one  occasion 
the  author  seated  himself  at  a  service  table  in  the 
Cristobal  Restaurant  with  a  companion  who  wore 
no  coat.     The  waiter  at  once  notified  him  that  he 
could  not  remain  as  he  was,  but  kindly  offered  to 
supply   the    essential    garment    and    brought    a 
ragged,    stained,   white,    waiter's   jacket   which 
fulfilled  the  requirements  and  caused  a  deal  of 
merriment  at  nearby  tables. 

CONSULS : 

Consulates  of  all  important  nations  may  be  found 
in  Colon  and  Panama.  There  are  also  American, 
French,  English,  Japanese,  and  other  legations 
with  Ministers,  in  Panama  City.  There  are  no 
consulates  on  the  Zone;  the  officials  in  the  re- 
public acting  for  both  Panama  and  the  Canal 
Zone, 


APPENDIX  249 

CURRENCY : 

The  currency  in  general  use,  both  in  the  Canal 
Zone  and  in  Panama,  is  American  and  all  notes, 
silver,  gold,  nickels  and  copper  cents  pass  at  face 
value. 

The  legal  currency  of  the  Republic  of  Panama  is 
Panajmanian,  the  standard  being  the  gold  Balboa 
worth  $1.00.  Formerly  there  were  silver  coins 
of  one-half,  one-quarter,  one-tenth  and  one- 
twentieth  of  a  Balboa,  as  well  as  two-and-one- 
half  cent  nickel  coins.  These,  with  the  exception 
of  the  two-and-one-half  and  five  cent  pieces 
(called  respectively  "Medias"  and  "Reales") 
have  been  withdrawn  from  circulation.  Be  very 
careful  not  to  accept  the  Panamanian  nickels  in 
place  of  American  nickels  in  change. 

Prices  are  often  (and  formerly  were  always)  quoted 
in  either  "gold"  or  "silver"  the  former  being  the 
price  in  United  States  currency,  the  latter  in 
Panamanian  "Pesos"  or  silver  half  Balboas 
worth  $0.50,  so  that  "silver"  prices  are  just  one- 
half  the  amount  in  American  money.  The  visitor 
should  invariably  enquire  whether  the  amount 
quoted  is  "gold"  or  "silver." 

If  the  amount  is  quoted  in  "Pesos"  it  means 
Panamanian  currency  and  is  half  what  it  would 
be  for  the  same  number  of  dollars. 

CUSTOMS  HOUSES: 

The  only  times  when  a  traveler  is  subjected  to 


250  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Customs  inspectian  of  baggage  is  when  entering 
the  Zone  at  Cristobal  or  Balboa,  as  the  Ameri- 
can authorities  collect  duties  for  the  Panamanian 
government.  The  importation  of  liquors  is  pro- 
hibited, but  otherwise  the  rules  are  very  lenient 
and  few  articles  are  dutiable  if  brought  in  for 
one's  personal  use. 

DISEASES : 

Panama  and  the  Zone  are  the  most  healthful 
coimtries  in  the  world  at  the  present  time.  Yel- 
low fever  is  unknown;  there  is  little  malaria  in 
the  cities;  typhoid  is  not  endemic  and  all  other 
contagious  diseases  are  rare.  There  are  occa- 
sional outbreaks  of  mild  cases  of  smallpox  which 
are  checked  at  once  and  vaccination  is  com- 
pulsory. There  are  excellent  doctors  everywhere 
and  the  Ancon  Hospital  is  famous  all  through 
South  America.  The  Colon  Hospital  and  the 
Samaritan  Hospital  in  Colon  and  the  private 
American  Hospital  at  Panama  City  are  all  that 
any  similar  institutions  in  the  States  could  be. 

Strictly  tropical  diseases,  such  as  yaws,  elephantisis, 
and  even  leprosy  occur  at  times  among  the  natives 
and  negroes  but  victims  are  never  permitted  at 
large  and  there  is  not  the  least  danger  of  a 
stranger  contracting  them.  Venereal  diseases  are, 
however,  extremely  common,  especially  among  the 
natives  and  are  the  curse  of  the  country,  although 


APPENDIX  251 

both  governments  are  doing  all  that  is  possible  to 
check  them. 

DUTIES: 

Practically  all  goods  imported  are  subject  to  duty, 
the  average  rate  being  lo%  ad  valorem.  Duties 
on  postal  packages  are  payable  at  the  Post  Office 
in  Colon  or  Panama  City  even  if  the  packages  are 
delivered  through  the  Canal  Zone  Post  Offices. 

EXCURSIONS : 

Many  pleasant  excursions  may  be  taken  from  either 
Colon  or  Panama.  Among  the  best  are  the 
following: 

FROM   COLON: 

Gatun — By  motor  to  Gatun  where  locks  may  be 

visited   and   control   tower  inspected.    Also  by 

train. 
Spillway — By  motor  to  Gatun  Spillway  where  there 

is  excellent  tarpon  fishing.     Also  by  train. 
San  Lorenzo — By  motor  to  Gatun  and  hence  by 

launch  down  the  Chagres  to  Fort  San  Lorenzo. 

Also  by  train. 
Fort  Sherman — By  tug  from  Fort  De  Lesseps  pier 

to  Fort  Sherman. 
Porto  Bello — By  launch  to  Porto  Bello. 
Bocas  del  Toro — By  steamer  to  Bocas  del  Toro  and 

the  United  Fruit  Co.  plantations. 
France  Field — ^By  motor  car  or  coach.     Also  by 

train. 


252  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

Coco  Solo — By  motor  car  or  coach.    Also  by  train. 

Fort  Randolph — By  motor  car  or  coach.  Also  by 
train. 

Across  Gatun  Lake — By  train  to  Monte  Lirio  and 
hence  by  launch  (meeting  all  trains)  across  the 
lake  to  Limon  and  New  Providence. 

Through  the  Canal — ^Arrangements  may  be  made 
through  the  Port  Captain  and  local  steamship 
agents  to  go  through  the  Canal  and  disembark 
at  Miraflores  or  Pedro  Miguel.  Occasionally  it 
is  possible  to  arrange  for  a  trip  to  Balboa. 

Mindi  Coaling  Plant — By  launch  or  via  Mount 
Hope  and  ferry  to  the  plant  which  is  the  largest 
in  the  world. 

Panama — By  regular  passenger  trains  on  Panama 
Railway. 

FROM   PANAMA  AND  BALBOA: 

Taboga  Island — By  regular  launch  from  Balboa 
docks. 

Corozal,  Miraflores,  Pedro  Miguel,  Paraiso,  Gamobo, 
— By  motor  car. 

Pearl  Islands — ^By  launch  or  coastwise  steamer 
from  Panama,  or  by  excursion  launch  from 
Balboa. 

Old  Panama — By  motor  car  from  Panama  or  Hotel 
Tivoli.  Full  information  as  to  itineraries,  costs, 
time  required,  etc.  for  any  of  these  trips  will 
be  supplied  by  the  Hotel  Tivoli  or  Hotel  Wash- 
ington. 


APPENDIX  253 

EXPENSES : 

It  is  impossible  to  give  any  estimate  of  what  the 
visitors'  expenses  will  be  in  Panama.  It  depends 
entirely  upon  one's  personal  tastes  and  require- 
ments. As  a  rule,  the  costs  of  hotels,  living,  etc. 
are  little  different  from  such  charges  in  New 
York.  Rooms  at  the  Washington  or  Tivoli  vary 
from  $3.50  to  $4.50  per  day  per  person.  Table 
d'  bote  meals  at  the  Washington  are: 

Lunch /      •     •  ^^•'^^ 

Dinner 1.25 

Breakfasts  are  a  la  carte  with  club  breakfasts 
from  $0.35  to  $2.00  and  a  la  carte  orders  may  be 
given  for  other  meals  if  desired, 
FISHING  : 

There  is  excellent  fishing  both  off  Colon  and  Pan- 
ama and  splendid  sport  with  tarpon  may  be  had 
at  the  Gatun  Spillway  and  on  the  Chagres. 
There  is  a  Tarpon  Club  at  Cristobal. 

FOOD: 

In  the  larger  hotels  the  food  is  the  same  as  in  the 
■States,  but  in  the  outlying  districts  the  food  is 
cooked  in  native  style, — or  rather  lack  of  style, — 
as  there  is  no  typically  Panamanian  cooking  cor- 
responding to  the  national  dishes  of  Mexico  and 
other  countries.  San  Coche,  about  the  only  na- 
tional dish,  is  a  sort  of  soup  or  thin  stew  without 
anything  to  recommend  it  to  northern  palates. 
As  a  rule,  the  native  cooking  is  very  poor. 


254  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

FRUIT : 

All  the  tropical  fruits  may  be  obtained  in  the 
markets  during  their  seasons ;  but  are  high  priced, 
as  ccfmpared  to  other  tropical  countries,  Taboga 
pineapples  have  the  reputation  of  being  the  best, 
but  personally,  I  consider  the  Limon  or  Monte 
Lirio  pines  far  superior,  especially  the  red,  yellow- 
meated  variety.  Native  oranges  are  excellent, 
but  scarce  and  the  bulk  of  citrus  fruits  are 
brought  from  Jamaica,  Haiti  or  California. 
Apples,  grapes,  pears,  etc.  are  usually  on  sale  and 
are  imported  from  the  States  weekly.  Paw-paws 
or,  as  they  are  known  locally.  Papayas,  are  a 
great  favorite  on  the  Zone  and  bananas  are 
universally  used.  Taken  as  a  whole  Panama  is 
very  deficient  in  good  tropical  fruits,  even  the 
mangoes  being  inferior  varieties. 

GOLF: 

There  are  splendid  golf  links  at  Gatun  and  near 
Balboa  and  strangers  who  are  fond  of  the  game 
are  always  made  welcome.  The  Hotel  Wash- 
ington also  has  a  miniature  course  for  the  use  of 
its  guests. 

HOSPITALS : 

Ancon  Hospital  at  Ancon  is  one  of  the  best  equipped 
in  the  world  and  people  come  to  it  from  all 
parts  of  South  America.  Colon  Hospital,  also 
maintained  by  the  Canal  Commission,  is  also  ex- 


APPENDIX  255 

cellent  as  are  the  Samaritan  Hospital  in  Colon 
and  the  Herrick  Clinic  Hospital  at  Panama,  while 
the  Panamanian  hospital  of  Santo  Tomas  is 
thoroughly  modem  and  well  equipped. 

HOTELS : 

The  two  best  hotels  on  the  Isthmus  are  the  Wash- 
ington at  Colon,  and  the  Tivoli  at  Ancon,  both 
operated  by  the  United  States  government.  At 
Colon,  there  are  also  the  Imperial  and  the  Astor 
which  are  fair,  and  in  Panama  City  there  are 
the  International,  the  American,  and  the  Central 
which  are  not  bad  as  Latin  American  hotels  go. 

HUNTING  : 

In  order  to  carry  or  possess  firearms  in  the  Zone 
a  license  must  be  obtained.  There  are  also  rules 
regarding  the  use  of  rifles  on  the  Zone  and  game 
laws  both  on  the  Zone  and  in  Panama,  There  is 
excellent  hunting  all  about  Colon  and  along  the 
Canal  and  at  a  short  distance  from  Panama. 
There  are  hunting  and  gun  clubs  at  Cristobal 
and  Balboa  and  the  members  of  these  can  supply 
full  information.  To  secure  a  good  bag  dogs  are 
essential.  For  general  use  a  12  bore,  double- 
barreled  gun  is  desirable;  but  if  out  for  big 
game  a  rifle  of  .25  or  .30  calibre  is  the  best 
weapon.  Owing  to  the  dense  jungles  nearly  all 
game  is  secured  at  very  close  range.  Jacking 
is  contrary  to  law  on  the  Zone,  but  is  constantly 


256  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

indulged  in  and  much  game  is  secured  in  this 
manner, 
INSECTS : 
The  greatest  nuisances  in  the  tropics  are  insects 
and  Panama  is  no  exception  to  the  rule.  Red 
bugs;  ticks,  or  garapatas  as  they  are  called; 
jiggers  or  chigos;  sand  flies  and  mosquitoes  are 
the  worst  pests.  The  best  remedy  for  a  bad 
attack  of  either  red  bugs  or  small  ticks  is  a 
weak  solution  of  formaldehyde.  Carbolic  soap  is 
also  good,  as  is  carbolated  vaseline  or  strong 
ammonia.  Large  ticks  should  be  carefully 
removed  and  the  wound  painted  with  iodine. 
Jiggers,  which  are  a  species  of  flea  which  bur- 
rows under  the  skin  (usually  in  the  feet)  and 
deposits  its  eggs,  should  be  carefully  removed  by 
means  of  a  sterilized  needle  and  the  wound 
dressed  with  antiseptic  or  painted  with  iodine. 
Mosquitoes  and  sandflies  are  seldom  troublesome 
on  the  Zone  and  the  hotels  are  screened;  but  in 
the  interior,  especially  in  the  rainy  season,  they 
are  a  pest  and  the  traveler  always  should  be 
provided  with  a  sand  fly  bar  of  thin  cheesecloth 
or  muslin  as  the  ordinary  jmosquito  bar  is  of  no 
avail  with  the  sand  flies.  Centipedes  and  scor- 
pions are  very  common  out  in  the  country,  but 
are  never  troublesome  or  dangerous.  It  is,  how- 
ever, a  wise  plan  to  invariably  shake  out  clothing 
and  shoes  before  putting  them  on  as  these  crea- 


APPENDIX  257 

tures  are  fond  of  such  places.  If  bitten  by  a 
centipede  or  stung  by  a  scorpion  permanganate 
of  potash,  ammonia  or  formaldehyde  should  be 
used  and  no  serious  results  will  follow.  Ground 
or  "spigotty"  itch,  cooly  itch,  foot  rot  and  similar 
skin  troubles  are  usually  caused  by  minute  insect 
parasites  and  should  be  given  prompt  attention 
as  any  sore,  wound  or  irritation  may  cause  serious 
infection  and  possible  loss  of  limbs,  or  even  of 
life,  if  neglected  in  the  tropics.  Permanganate 
of  potash,  iodine  or  bichloride  of  mercury  will 
check  any  of  these  troubles.  Other  insect  nui- 
sances are  ants  and  cockroaches  which  abound 
everywhere. 

LAUNCHES : 

Launches  and  other  boats  may  usually  be  hired 
at  Colon,  Panama,  Cristobal  and  Balboa.  Very 
often  they  are  adverti.sed  in  the  Siar  and  Herald 
and  if  not,  an  advertisement  in  that  paper,  or 
posted  on  the  Clubhouse  bulletin  board,  will 
bring  results. 
MAIL: 

The  mail  service  in  the  Zone  is  far  better  and  more 
reliable  than  that  of  Panama  and  as  the  Zone 
Post  Offices  are  for  the  use  of  the  public  it  is 
wisest  for  visitors  to  send  their  mail  from,  and  to 
have  it  addressed  to,  the  nearest  Zone  Post  Office. 
Boxes  may  be  rented  for  $0.75  for  each  three 
months.    The  postage  stamps  used  in  the  Zone  are 


258  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

the  Panamanian  stamps  surcharged  "CANAL 
ZONE"  and  are  not  good  on  mail  matter  posted 
in  Panama,  while  the  Panamanian  stamps  with- 
out surcharge  are  not  available  for  use  in  the 
Zone.  Postage  from  the  Zone  or  Panama  to  the 
States  is  the  same  as  for  inter-state  mail. 

MOTION  PICTURE  THEATERS: 

There  are  several  motion  picture  theaters  in  Pan- 
ama and  two  in  Colon,  the  best  of  the  former 
being  the  Cecelia  on  Avenida  Central,  while  the 
America  on  Broadway  is  the  favorite  in  Colon. 
In  addition,  there  are  motion  pictures  shown  at 
the  Zone  Clubhousees  and  army  "Y's"  where  a 
very  low  admission  is  charged  and  there  are  open 
air  pictures  at  Fort  Amador  and  Fort  De  Lesseps. 

PLACES  OF  HISTORIC  INTEREST: 

Colon : 

Porto  Bello  and  its  ancient  fort  San  Jerome, 

Fort  San  Lorenzo  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chagres. 
Panama : 

Old  Panama  sacked  by  the  pirate  Morgan.— 
About  8  miles  by  motor  road. 

Bovedas  and  Chiriqui  Prison  at  foot  of  1st  St. 

Church  of  San  Felipe  Neri  at  corner  of  Avenue 
B,  and  4th  St.  Built  in  1688  and  oldest 
church  in  the  city. 

Las  Mercedes  Church  at  corner  of  Avenida  Cen- 
tral and  10th  St. 


APPENDIX  259 

Ruins  of  San  Francisco  Convent  burnt  in  1756, 
riaza  Bolivar. 

La  Salle  College, — Plaza  Bolivar. 

San  Francisco  Church,  burnt  in  1756  and  rebuilt 
1785,— Plaza  Bolivar. 

Plaza  Central  or  Independence  Park  where  Pan- 
ama's Independence  was  twice  declared, — 
Avenida  Central  from  5th  to  6th  Sts. 

San  Domingo  Church  and  the  Flat  Arch,  burned 
in  1756 — Ave.  A  and  3rd  St. 

San  Jose  Church  and  its  gold  altar — Ave.  A  and 
8th  St. 

Old  City  Walls  and  Forts— Ave.  A,  10th  and 
11th  Sts. 

Santa  Ana  Church,  built  in  1764 — Plaza  Santa 
Ana  on  Avenida  Central. 

PANAMA   HATS: 

Panama  hats,  so-called  because  they  were  marketed 
through  Panama,  are  sold  throughout  the  shops 
of  Colon  and  Panama  at  prices  far  below  those  in 
the  States.  The  best  hats  come  from  Monte 
Cristi  in  Ecuador ;  but  the  shops  in  Panama  and 
Colon  frequently  pass  off  inferior  Colombian  or 
Peruvian  hats  for  the  genuine  Monte  Cristis.  It 
is  very  easy  to  distinguish  them  as  the  Ecuadorian 
hats  are  started  with  a  circular  weave  in  the 
center  of  the  crown  (inside)  while  the  others  have 
a  square  or  squarish  pattern.     The  quality  and 


260  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PEESENT 

price  of  a  Panama  depend  upon  the  fineness  of 
the  weave,  the  evenness,  the  color,  the  uniform 
size  of  the  straw,  or  rather  palm;  the  finish  of 
the  edges  and  many  other  details  and  unless  the 
purchaser  is  an  excellent  judge  of  these  hats  it  is 
best  to  get  some  expert  to  advise,  before  pur- 
chasing. 

PASSPORTS : 

Passports  are  not  required  when  leaving  the  United 
States  for  Cristobal  and  are  not  needed  when 
entering  Panama  from  the  Zone.  When  leaving 
Panama  or  the  Zone  for  the  United  States  no 
passports  are  required ;  but  when  sailing  for  other 
countries  they  are  necessary. 

REPTILES : 

There  are  not  many  reptiles  found  in  Panama  aside 
from  alligators,  crocodiles,  iguanas  and  harmless 
lizards.  Snakes  are  comparatively  rare  and  the 
few  poisonous  varieties  are  very  scarce.  One  is 
in  less  danger  from  snakes  in  the  interior  of 
Panama  than  in  New  England  or  New  York  State. 
During  over  four  years  in  Panama,  most  of  which 
I  spent  in  the  interior,  I  have  never  seen  but  three 
poisonous  snakes  and  less  than  a  score  of  snakes 
of  all  kinds.  The  barefooted  natives  and  naked 
Indians  never  give  them  a  thought. 

STEAMSHIP   LINES: 

Steamships  connect  Panama  with  every  country  in 
the  world.    Indeed,  there  are  few  spots  so  di- 


APPENDIX  261 

rectly  in  communication  with  every  large  port  as 
is  Panama,  Steamboats,  which  connect  the  out- 
lying ports  of  the  Republic  with  the  capital  sail 
from  Panama  City  at  more  or  less  regular  in- 
tervals. Among  the  more  important  steamship 
lines  having  agencies  and  offices  on  the  Isthmus 
are:  Grace  Line,  Panama  Railway  Line,  Royal 
Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.,  Pacific  Steam  Navigation 
Co.,  Compagnie  Transatlantique,  Royal  Dutch 
"West  India  IMail,  Compania  Transatlantica,  La 
Veloce  (Italian)  Line,  Pacific  Mail,  Admiral  Line, 
Lukenbach  Line,  Blue  Funnel  Line,  New  Zealand 
Shipping  Co.,  Elders  and  Fyffes,  United  Fruit 
Co.,  Elders  Dempsters,  Compania  Sud  America 
De  Vapores  (Chilian),  Compania  Peruiana 
(Peruvian  Line),  several  Japanese  and  Chinese 
lines  and  numerous  others. 

TELEGRAPHS  AND   TELEPHONES: 

All  the  important  towns,  and  most  of  the  villages  of 
Panama,  are  in  direct  telegraphic  or  telephonic 
communication  with  the  capital.  Throughout 
Colon  and  Panama  City  there  is  a  telephone 
system  which  may  be  reached  through  any  of  the 
Zone  telephones  so  that  one  may  conununieate 
with  any  part  of  Panama  or  the  Zone  from  an 
instrument  in  either  place. 

THEATERS : 

Aside  from  the  motion  picture  theaters  there  is  the 
National  Theatre  at  Panama  City  wherein  operas 


262  PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

are  held  at  intervals  and  there  are  also  vaudeville 
shows  held  at  times  at  the  Variedades  and  Cecilia 
in  Panama  City,  at  the  America  in  Colon  and  at 
the  Zone  Clubhouses  and  Y's. 

WATER: 

The  visitor  to  the  Isthmus  need  have  no  fear  of 
drinking  freely  of  the  water  at  Panama  City, 
Colon  or  anywhere  on  the  Zone,  as  it  is  all  under 
the  supervision  of  the  United  States  authorities 
and  is  absolutely  safe,  being  as  near  pure  as  it  is 
humanly  possible  to  get  it.  The  water  for  Pan- 
ama, Balboa  and  Ancon  is  brought  from  far  up 
the  Chagres  Valley  and  is  filtered,  purified  and 
distributed  through  the  filtration  plant  at  Mira- 
flores.  The  Colon  and  Cristobal  water  is  brought 
from  a  small  lake  and  is  purified  and  filtered  at 
the  Mount  Hope  station  before  being  distributed. 
As  all  ice  manufactured  on  the  Zone  or  in  Colon 
or  Panama  City  is  made  from  the  same  water 
there  is  not  the  least  danger  from  drinking  ie« 
water. 


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